HOME THEATER QUESTIONS & ANSWERS
We get a lot of questions
every week, so we thought we'd try something new and
post some of them in our
newsletters! We keep all questions anonymous
of course!
_____________________________
Q: I want to add Blu-ray to my home theater
setup and everyone seems to say that the
PlayStation 3 (PS3) seems to be the
best way to go. Is this true? Why? For home
theater use, is there any difference between the
various PS3 models that I should know about? It seems
the only difference is hard drive size. I'm willing
to spend more money on a larger hard drive but I'm
not sure I need it.
They're right! We highly recommend the
PS3 as your Blu-ray player even if you have no interest in
gaming, the
PS3 is by far the the best choice in Blu-ray
players out today for the following reasons:
- Price:
The
PS3 is not any
more expensive than other Blu-ray players.
-
Upgradeability:
The
PS3 will be the
first player to be upgraded to the final version
of Blu-ray: Profile
2.0. This is due out within the next week!
Most other players are not upgradeable. Have a
first generation Blu-ray player and want profile
2.0? You have to buy a new one! As it's
basically a powerful computer, the
PS3 is the only Blu-ray player out
there with the hardware required to decode future
audio formats and support other new features.
It's 100% flexible. There's even talk of Sony
adding a Tivo-like PVR in the future!
- Load times:
The
PS3
is the only player with 1-2 second load
times. Most other players take a long time to boot
and another 30-90 seconds to start playing the
movie!
- Audio/Video
quality:
The picture/sound quality is the same between
the various Blu-ray players when outputting
audio and video in the digital domain using HDMI
and Toslink/SPDIF. Don't be fooled by marketing:
Bits are bits! It makes no difference!
- Resale cost:
If you do decide to sell for any reason, the resale value of the
PS3 will be
considerably higher than any set-top Blu-ray
player as new set-top players are coming out
every few months while the PlayStation product
cycle is 4-8 years. Good luck selling your 6
month old Blu-ray for even a fraction of the cost you
paid!
For those of you interested in a Blu-ray player, stop
thinking of the
PS3 as a gaming machine. I (Kal the
webmaster) was short-sighted enough to do this and am now kicking myself now for not thinking
more
openly. I did not want a gaming machine in my home
theater but after researching the options it was the only
player that made sense so I jumped in with both feet. I didn't think I'd want to play any of the
games, but after downloading some of the free demos
(just a few clicks right in the
PS3 menus) they're actually quite fun even
for non-gamers. 1080p HD movie trailers are also
available for download and are fun to watch as an
intro to movies. The interface is incredibly easy to
use, or should I say, there's really nothing to do! To play
a movie you simply insert a disc. That's it! The
PS3 will also scale up your standard DVD so
your regular DVD player is no longer needed.
For Blu-ray playback, there is no difference
between the different versions of the
PS3. They will all give the same result.
The 40
and 80 GB models are currently available. The 20 and 60 GB versions are discontinued.
(eBay and
Amazon.com sellers have used ones available
for slightly cheaper if you look around). We've
downloaded just about every game demo and movie
trailer available and our 60 GB drive is not even
half full so hard drive size isn't important to
most. Different versions come packaged with
different movies or games so buy whichever one has
the movie or game that interests you.
_________________________________
Q: I'm interested in adding High Definition
(HD) to my home theater but am afraid that my
Barco 708 CRT projector with 7" tubes is too old
or not capable enough. Can I display HD from a
Blu-ray or HD DVD player or am I going to have to
upgrade to a newer projector?
A: The 7" tubes in your projector are actually
PERFECT for displaying a 1080i HD signal. It will
look absolutely fantastic. The same is true for all
other 'lower end' data or graphics grade CRT
projector such as the Sony 125x/127x, Barco 808/801,
Electrohome ECP, Sony D50, Ampro 2000/3600, Zenith
895/900, etc.
Your Barco 708 won't be able to do 1080p but
1080i looks just as good as both are 1920x1080
resolution. I'm skipping over some finer details but
the only major difference is that 1080p refreshes
the screen 60 times/sec, and 1080i does it 30
times/sec. Since film is all 24 frames/sec, 1080i is
already higher and will display Blu-ray and HD DVD
perfectly. (See a question below for further
details on 1080i vs 1080p or search our
forum
for details).
The difference between DVD and HD sources like
Blu-ray and HD DVD is astounding. Be warned however:
You'll never want to watch regular DVD again once
you've experienced HD on disc!
If you really want to make HD sing however, a
high performance 8" or 9" projector with
electromagnetic focus and
liquid-coupled optics will really make a big
difference. Since you have a Barco now, something
like a 9"
Barco 1209s would be a substantial upgrade
and the basic setup procedure would remain very
similar. You'd set it to run at 1080p since the
scanlines are so sharp that they'd be distracting at
1080i . The Barco 1209s is a lot bigger
than the 708 so be warned!
To connect a Blu-ray or HD DVD player to your CRT
projector we recommend either the
HDfury Advanced Kit coupled with the
RTC2200 or the Moome
EXT-HD HDMI to RGB converter. Both packages
offer similar performance with slightly different
features.
_____________________________
Q: I'm interested
in adding Blu-ray (or HD DVD) to my home theater and
already have a long (25 foot) RGB cable to my CRT
projector. Should I put the HDMI to RGB converter
near the source equipment and keep using my RGB
cable, or should it go near the projector using a long HDMI
cable? Which is best?
A: If your analog RGB cables are of good quality,
then it doesn't matter where you do your conversion.
Do whatever is most convenient for you.
Keep in mind that some HDMI to RGB converters
(like the
HDfury) do not have a cable driver stage
however, so you cannot drive long analog cables.
You're limited to using a short (under one foot)
output cable with the HDfury which means you need to install the
converter near the projector, or use something with a
cable driver built in like the
RTC2200 or
TC1500.
Moome's
EXT-HD converter does have a cable driver so
you can user longer analog output cables directly
from the converter to your projector.
_____________________________
Q: Can you recommend somewhere to buy HDMI
cables and switchers? Is there a difference in HDMI
cables? I've seen some selling for hundreds of
dollars! What should I look for?
A: There are two online stores that we always
recommend when purchasing HDMI cables:
Bluejeanscable.com and
Monoprice.com
(they're featured on our website's
Links
page). Both make excellent quality cables using good
parts at affordable prices. No matter what the
marketing/sales guys tell you there is absolutely no
need to buy esoteric "boutique" cables costing
hundreds of dollars. Bits are bits! Spend your money
elsewhere!
You can safely run lengths up to 50 feet or more with cables from both
companies at resolutions up to 1080p. A high quality
25-30 foot HDMI cable should not cost you more than
$50-75 USD. Longer cables often need to pass through walls,
so make the cable you use is CL2 rated for
fire/insurance reasons.
For longer HDMI cable runs, make sure to go
with a thicker gauge wire. The thicker the wire, the
smaller the gauge number or "AWG". If you run extremely
cheap HDMI cables with thin gauge wiring for very
long distances, you may have problems with what are
known as 'sparklies': Little bright flashes of
light that appear on the screen from time to time.
These are due to data dropouts.
For very short lengths you can use just about any
HDMI cable. We've had no problems with the $5
six-foot HDMI cables from
Bluejeanscable.com. They're quite well made
for the price and work well. You do not need to
spend $100 on a 6 foot HDMI cable! Not to mention any
names (starts with "MON" ends with "STER"), but
whatever you do, stay away from the incredibly
overpriced highly marketed cables.
:) While the cables are well made, it's our guess
that 95% of what you pay for is marketing.
For HDMI switchers, see
Monoprice.com. They make good quality
affordable and reliable HDMI switchers. Around $50
USD for 4-5 inputs and IR remote and rated up to
HDMI 1.3a and the highest resolutions possible.
Highly recommended. Again, no need to pay hundreds
of dollars on high-end HDMI switchers.
I take this back - I've had enough emails from Monoprice.com HDMI switcher owners to no longer recommend them. It seems they can be problematic with certain sources, requiring you to unplug/replug and power on/off devices in certain orders to get things to re-handshake again properly. The two HDMI switchers that do stand out in other forums as being bulletproof and are often recommended by other online sites like Audioholics
and Secrets of Home Theater & High Fidelity for
their reliability are the following:
OPPO HM-31 Certified HDMI 1.3 and 1080p Switch (3 inputs, IR remote, HDMI 1.3) and the
Radiient Select-4ce 4-Input HDMI Switcher (4 inputs, IR remote, HDMI 1.2 only I think if that matters to you). A little more money than the monoprice HDMI switchers but if they work without hassles the extra $20+ is worth it in my mind.
_____________________________
Q: I have a
Sony
VPH-D50 CRT projector that is connected to a
Blu-ray player by component video cables. I am
getting a picture at 1080i resolution. How much more
resolution will the
Sony IFB-HD HDMI card give me (1080p)? Are there
other advantages besides higher resolution to going
with this upgrade in my present setup?
A: HDMI has many advantages over component. Using component has the following limitations:
- HD DVD and Blu-ray players (as well as the
Xbox360 and
PS3)
are not allowed to upscale standard DVDs past
480p through the component outputs. To avoid this
limitation HDMI must be used.
- If the
Image Constraint Token (not to be confused
with
HDCP) is ever enabled on HD-DVD and Blu-ray
discs by the movie studios, all HD-DVD and Blu-ray
HD content will also be reduced to low rez 540p
(slightly better than standard DVD) though the
component outputs. To avoid this limitation HDMI
must be used.
- The image quality when using component instead of
DVI/HDMI is usually anywhere from slightly worse to
significantly worse, depending on the quality of
your analog switcher, transcoder, and cables.
The
Sony D50 is not known to have the best
internal transcoder unfortunately, so your results will
likely be the same as when I (the webmaster) used a
PS3 Blu-ray player
with my
Zenith 1200 / Barco Cine 8 Onyx for a few months
and then switched to HDMI by using the
HDfury (a
product similar to, but not as high-end as the
Sony IFB-HD
HDMI card).
I had heard
that using the HDfury produced a better image
quality than using component out on HD DVD and Blu-Ray players (not to mention
that you can now upscale standard DVD's too), but I
really wasn't ready for how much better the HDfury
made my Blu-Ray movies look! I expected a subtle
increase, but was shocked when I was presented with
a substantial increase in image quality. I was
pessimistic as Blu-Ray discs from my
PS3 component
output already looked fantastic on my setup so I
really didn't understand how things could look
better. I was already using what's considered the
best component to RGB transcoder out there (the
RTC2200) as follows:
PS3 component out ->
RTC2200
component to RGB transcoder -> 25' RGBHV cable ->
Barco Cine 8 Onyx projector. Man, was I wrong! Going
digital and bypassing what's likely average quality
DACs and op-amps in the
PS3 made ALL the difference!
The first things I noticed right away was the better
dynamic range even just in the PS3 menus: The whites
were just a lot tighter / purer / punchier /
brighter, the contrast range is better, the colours
richer, and the image is actually considerably (not
just a little bit) sharper! The difference isn't
subtle: I switched back and forth between the two
and it's like a gray haze was removed when using the
HDfury over the HDMI output vs. the component
output. Over component the image lacked punch,
wasn't as sharp and was somewhat muted. Using the
HDfury also resulted in better small object detail.
The smallest details and variances in image detail
are now perfectly resolved. I didn't know what I was
missing. I did try 1080p on my projector quite a bit
and 1080p is 100% resolved now. No problems at all.
1080p looked fantastic.
The other advantage that the IFB-HD has is that
it provides a gamma boost (like the
RTC2200) to restore perfect shadow
detail. If you've always found movies too dark or
missing detail in dark scenes, you need a gamma
boost. Take a look at these pictures
here of what
gamma boost does for a different product (the
RTC2200). The
Sony IFB-HD HDMI card does the same thing.
As for 1080p vs 1080i, while the
Sony IFB-HD HDMI card
supports 1080p, forget about it on the
Sony D50
projector. The 7" tubes in the D50 cannot handle
1080p properly but can do 1080i with ease.
While this oversimplifying a bit, 1080i is every
bit as good for movies as both 1080i and 1080p are
1920x1080 resolution. The difference is only in how
often the screen is refreshed: 30
times/second for 1080i and 60 times/second for
1080p. This difference is a non-issue for movies as
they are shot at only 24 images/second. So 1080i at
30 images/second is already high enough!
While my
Barco Cine 8 Onyx projector can handle
1080p and 1080i, I only use 1080i for the reasons
stated above and because 1080i is 'easier' on the
projector. The projector only has to work half as
hard which results in a sharper picture. Sort of
like driving your car at 5000rpm instead of
10,000rpm but going just as fast. No point in
pushing it any harder than you need to without any
real benefits.
You should use 1080i on a Sony D50 for
everything. It's an absolutely perfect match. The
only time you'd want to use 1080p on a CRT projector
is on really high end 9" machines (like the
Sony
G90) because the individual scan lines that make up
the picture become visible/distracting since the
projector is so sharp. On your projector (and mine),
the lines aren't noticeable from the seating
position.
WANT
TO LEARN MORE? SEE OUR FORUM! »