| Author |
Message |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:10 pm Post subject: Upgrading a Marquee to a 9500 |
|
|
Hi All -- I found on ebay and purchased a set of tubes from a 9500, complete with the magnetics, mounting hardware and neck boards. My question is, what should I inspect and repair before going any further?
Looking into the tubes, I do not see any evidence of burn in. I've inspected the neck boards at R13 and R28, and there is no evidence of burn there.
How do I check for mold?
Also, if you look at this picture, you will see some dark lines along the outside of the plastic casing around the magnetics. This is the green tube and the dark lines/scoring appear where the red wires coming out of the HV splitter would be if this were installed in the Marquee:
What could this be? Is there anything specific I should evaluate in light of this?
Any help would be appreciated.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:22 pm Post subject: Already done |
|
|
|
Thanks Tim -- I have one of Curt's LVPSs in my projector already and my filament voltage is 6.31 volts at P14 on the motherboard.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah man; at just over $900 for the set I decided to give the upgrade a whirl. I don't see any tube wear at all.
I had them at $650 until the last minute; somebody dropped in and pumped up my cost!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
|
| Posted: Fri Sep 26, 2008 11:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Ohmess wrote: | Yeah man; at just over $900 for the set I decided to give the upgrade a whirl. I don't see any tube wear at all.
I had them at $650 until the last minute; somebody dropped in and pumped up my cost! |
it wasnt me ! I was going to bid but i was cheap , once they went over 200 I decided not to even try.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 4:21 pm Post subject: Re: Upgrading a Marquee to a 9500 |
|
|
| Ohmess wrote: | | Hi All -- I found on ebay and purchased a set of tubes from a 9500, complete with the magnetics, mounting hardware and neck boards. My question is, what should I inspect and repair before going any further? | you need to to check that all 3 bellows haven't swollen or overpressurized from absorbing water. Stand the tube up vertically next to a sink and remove one of the litte fill screws on top. Any excesss pressure will squirt into the sink
| Ohmess wrote: | | Looking into the tubes, I do not see any evidence of burn in. I've inspected the neck boards at R13 and R28, and there is no evidence of burn there. | This is good but I strongly suggest replacing the 2 little blue electrolytic capacitors under the big resistors with a slightly higher value rated cap. There is a nice performance increase from doing this and the board will run cooler too (see pic).
| Ohmess wrote: | | How do I check for mold? | take off the lenses but be careful. 4 screws hold on the lens and the other 4 hold on the c-element. you want the C-element to stay put for obvious reasons
| Ohmess wrote: | | Also, if you look at this picture, you will see some dark lines along the outside of the plastic casing around the magnetics. This is the green tube and the dark lines/scoring appear where the red wires coming out of the HV splitter would be if this were installed in the Marquee: | that's just ionized soot from the air flowing htrough the PJ, it's perfeclty normal. clean it up with some Windex and your good to go.
| Description: |
|
| Filesize: |
142.31 KB |
| Viewed: |
8976 Time(s) |

|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Heywood Jablome
Joined: 12 Mar 2006 Posts: 1548
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 5:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I spotted those but decided my blue was good enough (for now anyway! Gotta get the damn thing hung and runnin before I start getting upgrade-itis. )
What made up my mind was the HD10Ls... Had they been straight 10's or (dog forbid) Fs or GT17s I think I might have pumped your cost up a little further!
The top and bottom plates will be different I believe, but they are super-cheap (basically 1/4" plate aluminum. I think somebody here measured them out and provided dimensions for DIY machinists.)
--Edit: That was one quarter inch thick aluminum plate, not fourteen inches!
_________________ "Those countries which lag behind in industry, in the application of mechanics and technical chemistry, in the careful selection and utilization of natural products, where the respect for such activities does not permeate all classes of society, will unfailingly decline in prosperity. They will sink faster when neighbor states, with an energetic exchange between science and industry, go forward with renewed vitality."
-- Baron Alexander von Humboldt: 1769-1859
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 6:11 pm Post subject: Re: Upgrading a Marquee to a 9500 |
|
|
| draganm wrote: | | Ohmess wrote: | | Hi All -- I found on ebay and purchased a set of tubes from a 9500, complete with the magnetics, mounting hardware and neck boards. My question is, what should I inspect and repair before going any further? | you need to to check that all 3 bellows haven't swollen or overpressurized from absorbing water. Stand the tube up vertically next to a sink and remove one of the litte fill screws on top. Any excesss pressure will squirt into the sink |
Do you have a picture of the fill screws you can point me to?
| draganm wrote: | | Ohmess wrote: | | Looking into the tubes, I do not see any evidence of burn in. I've inspected the neck boards at R13 and R28, and there is no evidence of burn there. | This is good but I strongly suggest replacing the 2 little blue electrolytic capacitors under the big resistors with a slightly higher value rated cap. There is a nice performance increase from doing this and the board will run cooler too (see pic). |
Yeah, I was on Mauser last night pricing the resistors, caps, and op amps. I will certainly get rid of the carbon resistors, and the caps don't look too hard to do. The op amps look more complicated. I may hold off on those.
Should I wait until I get the projector up and running before I mess with the neck boards? I'm told they came from a working 9500, but I did get them off ebay.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Heywood Jablome
Joined: 12 Mar 2006 Posts: 1548
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 6:31 pm Post subject: Re: Upgrading a Marquee to a 9500 |
|
|
| Ohmess wrote: |
Do you have a picture of the fill screws you can point me to?
|
--Edit: From http://www.curtpalme.com/Marquee_LCvent.shtm
| Ohmess wrote: |
Should I wait until I get the projector up and running before I mess with the neck boards? I'm told they came from a working 9500, but I did get them off ebay. |
YES! Always baseline before modding... save yourself some hair pulling.
_________________ "Those countries which lag behind in industry, in the application of mechanics and technical chemistry, in the careful selection and utilization of natural products, where the respect for such activities does not permeate all classes of society, will unfailingly decline in prosperity. They will sink faster when neighbor states, with an energetic exchange between science and industry, go forward with renewed vitality."
-- Baron Alexander von Humboldt: 1769-1859
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 8:43 pm Post subject: More Questions |
|
|
Upon closer inspection, it appears my tubes (or, more likely the projector that contained them) was dropped. If you look at the perimeter of the lens housing in this picture, there is a distinct dent:
In this picture, you can see that the knob that is used to optically focus the tube is missing, along with the post it is supposed to be attached to:
Moreover, the front of the lens housing has been driven backwards sharply enough to bend the posts on the side that guide the optical focus:
Both the Blue and Green tube lens housings show this same problem with the optical focus posts. Right now, they do not move. Here's the post on the green tube:
Comments/Suggestions?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 10:00 pm Post subject: More |
|
|
I removed the deformed guide posts, and without any of the guides in place I am unable to move the front lens forward far enough. It stops about 2mm short of where it needs to be to get the guide post that is supposed to hold the adjustment knob back in. In addition to that, it appears that the holes for the other two guide posts is so deformed that I will be unable to get them back in properly.
Gotta love buying stuff off ebay...
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 10:01 pm Post subject: And another thing |
|
|
|
Oh, and I have mold...
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 10:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You still got a good deal for the tubes, thats why he stated the bidding so cheap i bet. if you cant move the lens' then you wont be able to focus, but this may not matter if you want a screen larger than 90 inches or so as the HD10L's dont focus well, if you are going that size PM me, i have a set for you. also look here for LC housing removal to clean out the fungus and put in new glycol.
And yes get the PJ running first before upgrading parts, I have the procedure on my Marquee thread.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
|
| Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2008 11:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
yikes, $900 for damaged lenses and fungus in the chambers. I'm sorry to hear it, hopefully you can get it all straightened out
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
With the guide posts in place, I was unable to move the front lens on all three of the assemblies. I removed the guide posts from all three of the lens assemblies, and they all rotate. As best as I can see with the naked eye, they appear to rotate around the same axis; as if the posts were in but as noted about 2mm farther back. I think I may be able to move them to get a good optical focus. Of course, once I do so I need a mechanism to hold them in place. Without the posts, I am not yet sure what that mechanism is going to be.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Ohmess
Joined: 11 Sep 2008 Posts: 242 Location: Vienna, VA
|
| Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2008 2:39 pm Post subject: More on lenses |
|
|
Hey Nashou66 -- in response to my post, you commented that if I wanted a screen 90" or larger the 10Ls don't focus well. It sounds like you have some practical experience with the 10Ls, so I have a question.
My screen is 45" x 80" x 92". The Marquee manual indicates that the maximum preferred diagonal screen size for the 10Ls is 86". The manual also recommends a throw distance of 1.54 times the width + 3.3" which would work out to 126.5" for me.
Tim from Phx has commented in another thread that this is too far, and my room is actually too small for a mounting distance that long. I am hoping I can use something closer to the 108" I am using now (which is too far for my 8500, I learned after putting it up there). Obviously this will depend on what works with maximizing my raster usage once I get the 9500LC tubes installed.
Now, if I have my geometry right, aren't I bringing the picture back within the optimal range of the lenses by reducing the throw?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|