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Best source voltages for CRT if you could adjust? 0.7V? 1V?
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kal
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:09 pm    Post subject: Best source voltages for CRT if you could adjust? 0.7V? 1V?

I'm helping Moome on some design stuff. He will be adding a 'contrast' pot on some future boxes to allow the peak output signal voltage to be adjusted. Question is, what's the best adjustment range?

Marquee's like a "hot" input signal around 1V pp right?
Most sources are around 0.7V pp right?

So would a range from 0.7 to 1.0 best the best? Or between 0.6 and 0.8V? Something else?


Kal

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papalek



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:28 pm    Post subject:

From my experience.

Barco likes it at about .7 And over 1.0 will take out the input board.

Ampro likes at least 1.0 My 4600 is close to 1.3 from an Extron box and loves it.

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject:

papalek wrote:
From my experience.

Barco likes it at about .7 And over 1.0 will take out the input board.

Ampro likes at least 1.0 My 4600 is close to 1.3 from an Extron box and loves it.


Well now, that's interesting.

Anyone know how hot the Sony's like it?

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kal
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:12 pm    Post subject:

Ampro's like 1.3 volts? Really? That high?

What concerns me is the statement that over 1V will take out a Barco input board. Is this all Barcos? Moome can't give users a feature to go over 1V if there's a chance that it'll fry a certain brand of projector!

Kal

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:20 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:
Ampro's like 1.3 volts? Really? That high?

What concerns me is the statement that over 1V will take out a Barco input board. Is this all Barcos? Moome can't give users a feature to go over 1V if there's a chance that it'll fry a certain brand of projector!

Kal


I was reading the Cresendo form and I remember Kim saying to a customer that if the curnet version of his box didn't work he'd send out a 5V PP. I thought he was refering to a Barco. Lemme see if I can find that post.

EDIT: he was talking about the sync signal at 5vPP here's the post

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papalek



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject:

The "HOT" signal to the Ampro allows me to run contrast at 70 on a 10 foot wide screen and have a very vibrant image. With out the Extron box I have to crank the contrast to the max and the image is dull looking.

I have unhooked the cables from my 4600 and hooked them up to a Barco 701 and in about a minute the Barco shut down and I had to replace the input board. At that time I did not realize the "HOT" signal I was feeding the Ampro was the problem and connected it back again with a second board. Same thing,wiped the board out in about a minute. Connected it with another board,to the cable before the Extron box and worked fine.

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AnalogRocks
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject:

papalek wrote:
The "HOT" signal to the Ampro allows me to run contrast at 70 on a 10 foot wide screen and have a very vibrant image. With out the Extron box I have to crank the contrast to the max and the image is dull looking.

I have unhooked the cables from my 4600 and hooked them up to a Barco 701 and in about a minute the Barco shut down and I had to replace the input board. At that time I did not realize the "HOT" signal I was feeding the Ampro was the problem and connected it back again with a second board. Same thing,wiped the board out in about a minute. Connected it with another board,to the cable before the Extron box and worked fine.


OUCH!

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Person99



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Best source voltages for CRT if you could adjust? 0.7V?

kal wrote:


So would a range from 0.7 to 1.0 best the best?

Kal


Yes.

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kal
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Best source voltages for CRT if you could adjust? 0.7V?

Person99 wrote:
kal wrote:


So would a range from 0.7 to 1.0 best the best?

Kal


Yes.


This is what I figured. Just wanted to confirm. Moome wanted to do 0.6 - 0.8 but I didn't see the logic in that. I'll let him know.

Kal

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Nashou66



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:07 pm    Post subject:

I think up to 1v is a good choice. the thing is is some people have been modding input boards with newer current feed back op amps and if they didnt bother to change out the feedback resistors to give the proper gain then then it might be too high. Most video board designs from what i hear and have read in my searches is that they all try to do a gain of +2. so that would be 2.7, I think, I never understood that measurement... is it that it doubles the input or adds +2? I always thought it was times 2 so .7*2=1.4. well back to what i was saying about people modding some chips could have a gain much higer if they dont changeout the feedback resistors afew of those op Amps have a gain of +5. That could be way to hot for the op amp on the neck board, or some of the switching multipliers and other chips on the vim.

I could be wrong in this theory but just a thought...

Athanasios

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Curt Palme
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:12 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:


What concerns me is the statement that over 1V will take out a Barco input board. Is this all Barcos? Moome can't give users a feature to go over 1V if there's a chance that it'll fry a certain brand of projector!

Kal


I don't buy that one bit.

The input signal hotness (!) is like a clutch in the signal chain, just like the brightness/contrast controls are as well. Ideally the video signal is 1 volt, but a bit higher or lower isn't going to hurt anything. If properly calibrated though, you'll be running your brightness and contrast levels higher or lower than normal.

When I see guys posting 'I'm running my brightness and contrast at 35!', I can't help but think they are overdriving the inputs to their projectors like crazy, with say 1.3 volts or so.

Almost all sets allow for overdriving of the input signal without clipping for exactly this overdriving reason. SOme newbvie cranks the input gain of some booster amp to fulll, the projector can take it.

I have yet to see an input stage on any projector get blown due to too hot of a signal, but due to static electricity, yep, lots have blowed up real good..Smile
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:18 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
kal wrote:


What concerns me is the statement that over 1V will take out a Barco input board. Is this all Barcos? Moome can't give users a feature to go over 1V if there's a chance that it'll fry a certain brand of projector!

Kal


I don't buy that one bit.

The input signal hotness (!) is like a clutch in the signal chain, just like the brightness/contrast controls are as well. Ideally the video signal is 1 volt, but a bit higher or lower isn't going to hurt anything. If properly calibrated though, you'll be running your brightness and contrast levels higher or lower than normal.

When I see guys posting 'I'm running my brightness and contrast at 35!', I can't help but think they are overdriving the inputs to their projectors like crazy, with say 1.3 volts or so.

Almost all sets allow for overdriving of the input signal without clipping for exactly this overdriving reason. SOme newbvie cranks the input gain of some booster amp to fulll, the projector can take it.

I have yet to see an input stage on any projector get blown due to too hot of a signal, but due to static electricity, yep, lots have blowed up real good..Smile


Good info to know!

Athanasios

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WTS



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 7:40 pm    Post subject:

I was going to say, it's obvious most people don't have a clue what they are talking about when it comes to electronics, video in this case, but Curt beat me to it.

In the Barco and Marquee there are ICs that if over driven you'll get white crushing but it won't blow your input. Unless of course you feed it 110vac!

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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:06 pm    Post subject:

Hello Walter, glad to see you. I guess I am one of those people! Wink But I'm trying to learn . Thanks with your help and advice you gave me. things are looking good.

Athanasios

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kal
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 8:36 pm    Post subject:

WTS wrote:
In the Barco and Marquee there are ICs that if over driven you'll get white crushing but it won't blow your input. Unless of course you feed it 110vac!

That was my impression as well. Unless you go really overboard, you're not going to blow anything. A couple of volts isn't going to do it.

So I told Moome that a 0.7 - 1.0V adjustable range would be ideal. Just something he's toying with to eek out the most out of our projectors.

Kal

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9kids



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:57 pm    Post subject:

I agree that you don't want to go to high for most projectors, but if there are a few models that can benefit from something over 1.0V, then what about a optional jumper that could be added or removed to increase the range to say 1.2 or 1.3V. Then a major disclaimer in the manual about not changing the jumper, because it could cause damage to your projector. You know, one of those undocumented features, that people who know what they are doing can play with. Don't we all love to find those undocumented features in our consumer electronics?
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:06 pm    Post subject:

9kids wrote:
I agree that you don't want to go to high for most projectors, but if there are a few models that can benefit from something over 1.0V, then what about a optional jumper that could be added or removed to increase the range to say 1.2 or 1.3V. Then a major disclaimer in the manual about not changing the jumper, because it could cause damage to your projector. You know, one of those undocumented features, that people who know what they are doing can play with. Don't we all love to find those undocumented features in our consumer electronics?


If what is said is true, then the only known projector to like over 1.0 without white crushing is an Ampro. Given their (un)reliablity, there is only about 6 in use still globally. By next year, that should be down to 2. Mr. Green So, why increase the production cost? If they want that voltage, they can just buy an extron for $15.

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WTS



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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:16 pm    Post subject:

Well before anyone gets to excited about Moome doing something like that I'll have to ask him how he plans on implementing it into the circuit. Depending on how it's done you might be better off without it from a performance standpoint.
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tse



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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:17 am    Post subject:

My $0.02 worth. Video should always be 0.7Vpp (1Vpp if with sync) when properly terminated. That means 1.4Vpp unterminated.

Higher level signals can cause white crush, as mentioned earlier. Or not. You'll have to check with a scope or the proper test patterns to tell.

Higher level signals require the video input circuits to have a higher slew rate to maintain bandwidth. The Marquee VIM actually attenuates the input to reduce the slew rate needed.

There should only be one control per function in a system. That would be the contrast control. Turn it up to 100 if you have to. It's only a number.

Scott

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Posted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:29 am    Post subject:

Scott i have a question...what if you put op amps with higher slew rates than the original CLC449's? will they be able to handle the higher voltage or is there more involved?

Athanasios

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