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Argh - "H. Fail"

 
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:26 pm    Post subject: Argh - "H. Fail"
I'm trying to watch a football game this afternoon, and suddenly I lose the picture on my Marquee 8000. I looked up and the "H. Fail" light is lit. What should I be looking for to troubleshoot this?
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:41 pm    Post subject:
Hello

If ceiling mounted, try reseating the Horizontal Deflection Module, it is is a metal sleeve upright between the green and blue tubes. It may have a small signal board riding on it, reseat that too.
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 10:55 pm    Post subject:
Thanks - I'm stepping out for dinner, but I'll check this out when I get home. Hopefully that's all it is.
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Z-Photo



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 2749
Location: Huntsville - Alabama

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 1:45 am    Post subject:
Buy a Barco



or an


AMPRO (gasp)
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Engineer by Day
Photographer by Night
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The Only GOOD AMPRO - is a Dead AMPRO.
wait - are they not all DEAD already?
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Zebu Fellenz



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 2567
Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 3:18 am    Post subject:
Z-

I wouldn't buy a Barco...


My Barco pulled an Ampro on me Shocked
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 2:04 pm    Post subject:
Thanks - that worked. Now, though, I've noticed that it appears that the width of the image seems to "shrink" a little bit. Could this be a board issue? Also, is there a reliable way to make sure that the HDM board stays in place?
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 4:49 pm    Post subject:
fuzzybee wrote:
Thanks - that worked. Now, though, I've noticed that it appears that the width of the image seems to "shrink" a little bit. Could this be a board issue? Also, is there a reliable way to make sure that the HDM board stays in place?


The metal sleeve for the HDM should have a metal top. If there is a strip of foam material in the top, remove it and pad the inside of the top with 7-8 strips of duct tape placed to push up on the edge of the HDM board.
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 12:03 pm    Post subject:
Good idea. Thanks.

Could the changing width of my image be attributed to this board becoming unseated?
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:05 pm    Post subject:
fuzzybee wrote:
Good idea. Thanks.

Could the changing width of my image be attributed to this board becoming unseated?


More likely it was Gravity.
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:54 pm    Post subject:
I think there's a misunderstanding. Since I reseated my HDM board, it seems like the width of my image changes while I'm using the projector. It's almost pulsating. Could this be because the board isn't properly seated?
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject:
Tim in Phoenix wrote:
fuzzybee wrote:
Good idea. Thanks.

Could the changing width of my image be attributed to this board becoming unseated?


More likely it was Gravity.

Yeah, gravity has a *weigh* of doing that. Laughing
eh? eh? How bout THAT! Laughing I'm sharp as a wet Qtip this rainy Monday morning. Laughing

Tim is all over this so my input isn't really necessary or on par with his skills but....diagnosing alot of problems remotely is like brain surgery by smoke signal...OK, not THAT rediculous, but still requires trial and error.
I'd remove the HDM and the F board and clean the pins with DeOxyt or Caigs. Use sparingly when you spray the pins....it has a red dye in it so you'll see where you've sprayed. Then scrub the pins with an old toothbrush (or a room mates...that's always good for a laugh), and then either let the pins air dry or use a can of air. It won't look totally dry as it has an electricallty neutral lubricant built into it but avoid puddles or long rivulets of cleaner running down the length of the board as you're holding it pin side up. It's easy to do and not notice.

I also modified the covers to the shielding cages by stripping off the original white foam and replacing it with adhesive backed weatherstripping foam (or felt). Then I bent the tab on the cover "hinge end" to create a better bite on the corresponding slot. Then bend the end of the cover that has the dimple catch a tad to also make it grab the corresponding hole in the cage better. Some slow steady pressure was required to get the card edge pressed into the new foam (or felt) but it clicked and has been holding steady for three weeks now.

Prior to tweeking the two boards I would lose my image either all at once, or the image would be defocused. Either way, reseating the boards "fixed" the problem temporarily. I just got tired of messing with them.

So much Halo 3 and BioShock....so little time. Wink

Greg

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Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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Tim in Phoenix



Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:20 pm    Post subject:
fuzzybee wrote:
I think there's a misunderstanding. Since I reseated my HDM board, it seems like the width of my image changes while I'm using the projector. It's almost pulsating. Could this be because the board isn't properly seated?


Hello

If your HDM desocketed while running then something on the board could have gotten damaged. Try the duct tape padding as described and report back.
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:40 pm    Post subject:
I'll try that this evening. Thanks again.
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fuzzybee



Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 187
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:24 pm    Post subject:
Thanks, Tim - this worked!
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