| Author |
Message |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:54 pm Post subject: Spellman question |
|
|
|
Spellman x1914 from a Ampro 4200 and Spellman x2394 from a Ampro 3600. Anyone know the difference? Connectors are identical. Even wire-colours. The x1914 says 34 KV, 4 mA. The x2394 34-36 kV, 4.5 - 5.5 mA. So the x2394 delivers a bit higher, and thats it?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
It should work, but you may get blooming or overload at high brightness and contrast.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 6:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Worth a try if i can't get my hands on the right one...
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Connected the x1914 with same result. It start up, light the tubes for 2 secs, then shuts down.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Full brightness again?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Yes, not as bright as when only one tube where connected. but all three tubeface lit up for 2 secs before it shut down.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 7:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
They flicker, rapidly.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Got a remote. It says *Hi beam current'
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
And chl 50?
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:13 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
OK, disconnect all 3 CRT sockets from those multipin connectors, and see if you still get the high beam current error. Also put in the original HVPS and see if you get the same error on the remote with that HVPS. I believe that with the crumbling wires, that you may have arcing under the motherboard from those G2 leads, which instantly will give that error message. I'd pull the motherboard and get those wires fixed!
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 8:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
I'll try that tomorrow. Thx:-)
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 9:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
|
Without any crt connected, it runs fine. With one also, regardles of red green or blue, but it just lights up the full crtface from edge to edge while flickering. When i try testmode or helpmode, the crtface dims a bit, but theres no image. Just full light. With two tubes connected, it stays on for maybe 30 seconds before chutdown. Same light... Three tubes connected, it powers up and shuts down after 2sec with full light on tubes.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 10:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
A small video with orig hvps and only green tube connected. (Shut down after a minute or so) Again hibeam current. Could'nt see help or test menu, as before. But much brighter with this hvps tan the old one from the 4200.
http://hitbussen.dk/jpg/Fil%2013-12-2016%2011.46.25.mov
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 2:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
OK, way too bright. Since all 3 neck boards are doing it, it's not the tubes or neck boards. AS I said, pull the motherboard, and replace those G2 wires and check for other damage. Pull the LVPS and check all the fuses on it as well.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 7:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
|
Got it reassembled. Now it runs without shutting down, but there is no volt on the G2... all fuses are good.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
LBSmidtfyn
Joined: 01 Dec 2016 Posts: 35 Location: DK
|
| Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 9:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Found out a fuse in the hvps needed to be reseated. Now everything is back were I began. Did the suggested repairs, but to much voltage. It runs and re-act with the G2-wire unmounted between MB and HPVS, (subtle clics and tubes shift when "help" or "test" mode are selected), and there is light on tubefaces. Not edge to edge. But typical bows top and buttom, and overscan to the sides. Q1 on MB is ok.
The remote says this (G2-wire unmounted), on startup and Code 30:
KLINITIALIZING LHROM Version 4.00Copyright 1996 LHby AmPro Corporation LHKLKLVIDEO 2 PAL LHCHANNEL 3 LHKLCHANNEL 3 LHKLKLVIDEO 2 PAL LHCHANNEL 3 LKLNO INPUT LHKLH ACC = 3 LHKLH ACC = 30 LHKLKLNO INPUT LKLNO HORZ CLAMP LKLGRID 2 LOL
-25 VOLTS HI
VIDEO 2 PAL
CHANNEL 3
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|