Return to the CurtPalme.com main site CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum
A forum with a sense of fun and community for Home Theater enthusiasts!
Products for Sale ] [ FAQ: Hooking it all up ] [ CRT Primer/FAQ ] [ Best/Worst CRT Projectors List ] [ Setup Tips & Manuals ] [ Advanced Procedures ] [ Newsletter ]
 
Blu-ray disc release list and must-have titles. Buy the latest and best Blu-ray titles to show off in your home theater!

 As this forum is rarely used anymore, we've locked it. Feel free to browse and read. Questions? Please reach out to us directly. Cheers! 

VPH 1251Q problem with red and blue convergence

 
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    CurtPalme.com Forum Index -> CRT Projectors
Author Message
Meemil



Joined: 25 Mar 2016
Posts: 96
Location: Finland

Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:50 pm    Post subject: VPH 1251Q problem with red and blue convergence

Hey!

This is my first post here in Curtpalme forums and so far this place seems really nice! I didn't know that CRT projectors even existed half a year back so yeah, I'm beginner with these monsters. However, I've started studying and reading a lot on how they work so I guess it's okay for me to ask help at this point haha.

Basically, I received a VPH 1251q almost for free which is in pretty good condition (some minor wear on blue tube). I've been trying to get this thing up and running for few months now and it surely is hard. Everything goes pretty smoothly in the process except convergence of the red and blue.

So far i have:

- Set the PJ in correct distance using PJCalc and made sure that it's square to the screen.
- Set all the values to 128 (default).
- Centered and maximized the rasters.
- Done the tube toe in for all 3 tubes.
- Tweaked the yokes to get the images straight using minium amount of correction.
- Fixed the astigmatism
- Focused the lenses & done the lens flapping w/ the mod.
- Converged the green tube

The green looks really good right now, it's almost perfect and not much correction is used. However the other colors fail at the keystone/pincushion stage. For some reason the corner lines are weirdly bent and I can't get the keystone distortion uniform as described in the manual. Here are some pictures: http://imgur.com/a/Ys3Ih

Thanks in advance!
Back to top
Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 2:52 pm    Post subject:

Looks good so far! Can you not correct that with the 'zone' controls? A bit of misconvergence like that is normal with the key and pin controls, use the 'zone' controls for fine tuning. Judging from the pix, you've done a far better than average setup for a first timer! Smile
Back to top
draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:47 pm    Post subject:

Sooo close, just one more menu to navigate,

oh oh oh , not so far to go Mr. Green
Back to top
View user's photo album (2 photos)
AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 6:52 am    Post subject:

Yeah what Curt said. Use the ZONE to dial in the edges now. What you are seeing is likely causes by the offset of the tubes. I run a little ZONE on my 1272 no problems.

Looking great so far.

_________________
Tech support for nothing

CRT.

HD done right!
Back to top
View user's photo album (27 photos)
Meemil



Joined: 25 Mar 2016
Posts: 96
Location: Finland

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 6:54 pm    Post subject:

Alright, I'm finally back after a little break. PJ's psu died out and I didn't have motivation to troubleshoot it until this week and believe me, I didn't think that resoldering few joints on the board would resurrect it Very Happy

In any case, thanks a lot for the responses! The projector is now up and running with a pretty decent convergence! However, I am now facing another issue. Convergence seems to drift a bit, especially after turning it off. It's not a very big problem as the center positions of red and blue only move a bit from green, and it's not a big task to fix. It does drift more noticeably when I'm feeding 1080i 60hz signal to it via DVI though. Sometimes it gets so troubling that I have to start tinkering with the settings even during a movie. I was wondering if this is normal behaviour?

Thanks!
Back to top
gregstv



Joined: 27 Aug 2007
Posts: 628
Location: Australia

Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2016 7:17 pm    Post subject:

Tinkering during the movie is one of the side affects of this hobby.
I don't recall my 1272 drifting that much. Let it warm up and then do the convergence.
When you turn it on again it should come back into alingment once it warms up. It will be out slightly when cold.
Back to top
AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2016 2:11 am    Post subject:

Meemil wrote:
Alright, I'm finally back after a little break. PJ's psu died out and I didn't have motivation to troubleshoot it until this week and believe me, I didn't think that resoldering few joints on the board would resurrect it Very Happy

In any case, thanks a lot for the responses! The projector is now up and running with a pretty decent convergence! However, I am now facing another issue. Convergence seems to drift a bit, especially after turning it off. It's not a very big problem as the center positions of red and blue only move a bit from green, and it's not a big task to fix. It does drift more noticeably when I'm feeding 1080i 60hz signal to it via DVI though. Sometimes it gets so troubling that I have to start tinkering with the settings even during a movie. I was wondering if this is normal behaviour?

Thanks!


My recipe is this: turn on the projector and let it idle with no signal for 30-40 minutes. That gets things warming up.

Then run a signal into it and do the setup. Don't get sucked into the movie. If you are doing the setup with the case off put it back on and wait 15 minutes for the temperature to stabilize. Do the final tweak. Next time you watch a movie turn the projector on 10 minutes prior and wait one the movie starts for everything to stabilize. RESIST the urge to tweak it. Watch the first 20-30 minutes and see if the convergence is good.

Also if you have this ceiling mounted don't forget to flip the fans over to push air out the top and in the bottom ( by the keypad ).

_________________
Tech support for nothing

CRT.

HD done right!
Back to top
View user's photo album (27 photos)
jbltecnicspro



Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 512


Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:00 am    Post subject:

Not to hijack the thread (you've got a great setup, OP - good job!), but I find that I have to push horizontal keystone out quite a bit to get the image to be square. What am I doing wrong? The projector is a G70 ceiling mounted on the PSS-70 mount and it's as flat as the stand will allow it to go, so there is a bit of an off-angle with the tubes and they're not squarely hitting the screen.

Also - what do people here do for lower ceilings? My ceiling is about 7 ft high (if that - maybe it's more like 6ft, 8 inches) and the PSS-70 adds quite a bit of offset to the projector. I was thinking about spreading out the unistrut and removing the feet of the projector, and using the screw holes to mount the projector, bypassing the need for the PSS-70.
Back to top
Meemil



Joined: 25 Mar 2016
Posts: 96
Location: Finland

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:05 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Meemil wrote:
Alright, I'm finally back after a little break. PJ's psu died out and I didn't have motivation to troubleshoot it until this week and believe me, I didn't think that resoldering few joints on the board would resurrect it Very Happy

In any case, thanks a lot for the responses! The projector is now up and running with a pretty decent convergence! However, I am now facing another issue. Convergence seems to drift a bit, especially after turning it off. It's not a very big problem as the center positions of red and blue only move a bit from green, and it's not a big task to fix. It does drift more noticeably when I'm feeding 1080i 60hz signal to it via DVI though. Sometimes it gets so troubling that I have to start tinkering with the settings even during a movie. I was wondering if this is normal behaviour?

Thanks!


My recipe is this: turn on the projector and let it idle with no signal for 30-40 minutes. That gets things warming up.

Then run a signal into it and do the setup. Don't get sucked into the movie. If you are doing the setup with the case off put it back on and wait 15 minutes for the temperature to stabilize. Do the final tweak. Next time you watch a movie turn the projector on 10 minutes prior and wait one the movie starts for everything to stabilize. RESIST the urge to tweak it. Watch the first 20-30 minutes and see if the convergence is good.

Also if you have this ceiling mounted don't forget to flip the fans over to push air out the top and in the bottom ( by the keypad ).


Thanks for the tip, will try that out asap! Also by turning on the projector 10 minutes prior movie do you mean that I should skip the 20min white screen?

jbltecnicspro, I'm really a newbie when it comes to these machines but I think that the problem is in the mechanical installation. Projector has to be square to the screen and also perfectly level. Have you tried it on a table and check if the same issue still occurs?
Back to top
Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:11 pm    Post subject:

Analog gives good advice, but I'm not sure why he says to turn the projector on without a signal present. The electronics runs the same with or without a signal, in fact, the tube face will get hotter with a signal present, so in case of any minute shifts in the tube housing due to heat, I'd run a signal during warmup time.

The only thing I don't agree with is that all white Sony warmup screen. I'd turn that off, as I'm not a fan of all white on a screen for any length of time, it wears the tube phosphor.
Back to top
AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 4:41 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Meemil wrote:
Alright, I'm finally back after a little break. PJ's psu died out and I didn't have motivation to troubleshoot it until this week and believe me, I didn't think that resoldering few joints on the board would resurrect it Very Happy

In any case, thanks a lot for the responses! The projector is now up and running with a pretty decent convergence! However, I am now facing another issue. Convergence seems to drift a bit, especially after turning it off. It's not a very big problem as the center positions of red and blue only move a bit from green, and it's not a big task to fix. It does drift more noticeably when I'm feeding 1080i 60hz signal to it via DVI though. Sometimes it gets so troubling that I have to start tinkering with the settings even during a movie. I was wondering if this is normal behaviour?

Thanks!


My recipe is this: turn on the projector and let it idle with no signal for 30-40 minutes. That gets things warming up.

Then run a signal into it and do the setup. Don't get sucked into the movie. If you are doing the setup with the case off put it back on and wait 15 minutes for the temperature to stabilize. Do the final tweak. Next time you watch a movie turn the projector on 10 minutes prior and wait one the movie starts for everything to stabilize. RESIST the urge to tweak it. Watch the first 20-30 minutes and see if the convergence is good.

Also if you have this ceiling mounted don't forget to flip the fans over to push air out the top and in the bottom ( by the keypad ).


Curt Palme wrote:
Analog gives good advice, but I'm not sure why he says to turn the projector on without a signal present. The electronics runs the same with or without a signal, in fact, the tube face will get hotter with a signal present, so in case of any minute shifts in the tube housing due to heat, I'd run a signal during warmup time.

The only thing I don't agree with is that all white Sony warmup screen. I'd turn that off, as I'm not a fan of all white on a screen for any length of time, it wears the tube phosphor.


I do this to my 1272 as I only use it occasionally. I give it the idle time to let the caps reform and to let the electronics get use to running again before stressing it with a signal. I idle them longer when just out of long term storage (1-2 hours) and DO NOT turn the power on for a second to see if it works then switch off.!I have killed a few things doing that and most importantly I killed a power supply in my 1272 one year doing that. Just plug them in, hit the mains power count to 10 and power it up and let it idle.

As for the all white screen I was never a fan. I mean it uses up your tubes! I guess it does evenly warm up the tube surface but I think SONY put that in there to burn out the tubes faster and make you spend more money Wink

You may also find your convergence may need a touch up from one season to the next especially if there's a large change in your room temperature
I see that with my D50 a little change in alignment from summer to winter.

_________________
Tech support for nothing

CRT.

HD done right!
Back to top
View user's photo album (27 photos)
AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 4:55 pm    Post subject:

jbltecnicspro wrote:
Not to hijack the thread (you've got a great setup, OP - good job!), but I find that I have to push horizontal keystone out quite a bit to get the image to be square. What am I doing wrong? The projector is a G70 ceiling mounted on the PSS-70 mount and it's as flat as the stand will allow it to go, so there is a bit of an off-angle with the tubes and they're not squarely hitting the screen.

Also - what do people here do for lower ceilings? My ceiling is about 7 ft high (if that - maybe it's more like 6ft, 8 inches) and the PSS-70 adds quite a bit of offset to the projector. I was thinking about spreading out the unistrut and removing the feet of the projector, and using the screw holes to mount the projector, bypassing the need for the PSS-70.


Meemil wrote:


jbltecnicspro, I'm really a newbie when it comes to these machines but I think that the problem is in the mechanical installation. Projector has to be square to the screen and also perfectly level. Have you tried it on a table and check if the same issue still occurs?


Yes, get the projector square to the screen, Keep in mind the middle of the lenses, horizontally, are supposed to be aligned with the top edge of the screen on a ceiling mount, bottom edge on a table/floor mount or middle in a rear projection setup.

Also both front corners of the projector must have equal distance to the screen (square) and be centered on the (center) vertical axis of the green tube to the vertical center of the screen. So square it up. Go into all the electronic adjustments and set them to mid point ( 128 ) and re-do the mechanical setup. Also, you will need to set mechanical tube toe in. Not sure on the G70, (see the manual) but on the 125x and 127x series they use different size spacers.

_________________
Tech support for nothing

CRT.

HD done right!
Back to top
View user's photo album (27 photos)
ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 11:50 pm    Post subject:

jbltecnicspro wrote:
Not to hijack the thread (you've got a great setup, OP - good job!), but I find that I have to push horizontal keystone out quite a bit to get the image to be square. What am I doing wrong? The projector is a G70 ceiling mounted on the PSS-70 mount and it's as flat as the stand will allow it to go, so there is a bit of an off-angle with the tubes and they're not squarely hitting the screen.

The further the projector lenses are from the "ray" coming out perpendicular from the center of the screen, the more keystone you'll need. Like Analog said above, the center of the lenses should roughly align with the edge of the top of the screen. But, it can also be anywhere between those two points, too. Meaning, in your scenario, the projector lenses could be further away from the ceiling than the top of the screen; that just reduces the amount of keystone correction. The key is mounting the projector nice and square to the screen and level, optimizing the hell out of the optical focus and Schempflug focus, *THEN* doing your geometry and convergence. You do have to do a little focus before you do rough geometry, before you can do focus, and so on; it's a very circular process. If you do a little searching, you can probably find a few posts where I or somebody else detailed the process.

jbltecnicspro wrote:
Also - what do people here do for lower ceilings? My ceiling is about 7 ft high (if that - maybe it's more like 6ft, 8 inches) and the PSS-70 adds quite a bit of offset to the projector. I was thinking about spreading out the unistrut and removing the feet of the projector, and using the screw holes to mount the projector, bypassing the need for the PSS-70.

My ceiling was only about 7'-8", so with my riser, and the projector, I wanted it as tight to the ceiling as I could get it. So, used the projector-half of the PSS70, but built the rest of the mount myself using 1-inch and 1.5-inch steel square-tube, and all-thread. The projector hung on four pieces of all-thread, and with the hole in the ceiling, I could take the projector right up to the ceiling. Here's how it looked...

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=115438#115438

Cheers,
SC
Back to top
View user's photo album (10 photos)
This forum is locked: you cannot post, reply to, or edit topics.   This topic is locked: you cannot edit posts or make replies.    CurtPalme.com Forum Index -> CRT Projectors All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum