CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[mookee]

hi

one thing:
if i did the manual tube calibration with the centering magnets some months before (for another projektion place and table front projektion) on my projektor, is there any reason to do it again now for ceiling front projektion. all the focus tricks on the board and lenses such as their manual aligment, yeah shure, but the "window" callibration with the once glued "screws" on the tube itself two? (allways wondered how those got out of callibration in the first place anyway)

am talking about that risky act of "Raster/tube face setup" ake http://www.curtpalme.com/NECPG_MechSetup3.shtm

!)

lg c

[CasetheCorvetteman]

You need to do all that with it in position. Center the image on the tubeface, then do astig.

They get out of calibration because the projector has been moved. It was factory set in Japan, and it will likely now be out since the set is 20 years old and moved around the world.

Set lens focus, zero out all settings, center the image within the raster, then center the image on the tube face. Do the astig using the dot pattern. Then re center the raster and set electronic center focus to -10, set electronic focus via pots for perfect center, then use electronic focus for sides and corners. Now start the alignment by getting the phase set correctly. After you do the alignment and convergence making sure to mechanically align the yokes correctly prior to any electronic adjustments, re center the red and blue, re aim the tubes, and adjust electronic convergence to suit.

If this is a PG set, you will have to check with the DEF board closed and out cover closed, use the raster shift rings to compensate for the movement you will see when you close the covers. DONT just use the static convergence, that is plain lazy. On your primary source, static convergence should be at zero for all three, and closed covers should give you a perfect white crosshair.

When youre done, all three images should be dead center of each tube face. It should be sharp across the whole screen. If that is done correctly, you will never need to touch the lens focus or red/blue tube angle again, as they should be perfectly aimed.