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NMB fan specs from Barco 808/Cine8/Zenith 1200?
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject:

I think the big problem is the lack of static pressure and overly optimistic ratings by the manufacturer. In other words, the fans don't put out what they say they do and if you put any resistance in their way, the CFM drops greatly.

Read this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9740646&&#post9740646


Alaric wrote:
However did you take any external temp measurement at the same time, ie the general air arround the PJ, as this may affect the internal results ???

Nope. I didn't. My basement temp stays within a degree or so all year round. Not a factor. Not to mention that I did my tests over a one week period in which the temp was very consistent.

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 7:10 pm    Post subject:

Hi Kal,

Yes I agree about the static pressure capablity of the fan is very important, especially if you're pulling air through any restrictions. The 1200x layout has very little restrictions from what I can see. I guess the bottom line for me is after running it for 7hrs and I can still touch the heatsinks and they barely feel warm the the cooling is just fine. I've touched enough heatsinks over the past 25 years to know if they're running too hot or not for the electronics attached to them.

Walter

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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Mon Feb 12, 2007 9:01 pm    Post subject:

WTS wrote:
Yes I agree about the static pressure capablity of the fan is very important, especially if you're pulling air through any restrictions. The 1200x layout has very little restrictions from what I can see.

Actually, I would say the opposite:



Some of the fan holes have considerable blockage with aluminum and components.

WTS wrote:
I guess the bottom line for me is after running it for 7hrs and I can still touch the heatsinks and they barely feel warm the the cooling is just fine. I've touched enough heatsinks over the past 25 years to know if they're running too hot or not for the electronics attached to them.

You haven't replaced the angled fan which is good since that only only cools the hottest board: The h-shift/focus board. The vertical and horiz deflection boards get pretty hot too so be careful about those. Though you may be cooler as well since you're floor mounted and if you're only running at 1080i/60 things will be a bit cooler since these things have been designed to run up to 75Khz (if not higher)...

Yep, all electronics are rated up to certain temps, but the cooler you run things the longer they'll last and the more stable they'll be. I prefer to keep things at least as cool as before. A couple of degrees wouldn't bother me, but seeing a 28 -> 42'C jump does bother me (Horiz defl board). The heat sink in this case (going from the finger test) goes from what seems 'cool' (no heat detected) to pretty warm.

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1276
Location: Calgary

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:25 am    Post subject:

Hi Kal,

No, my pj is ceiling mounted. Looking at the pics it does look like there is some blockage, hmmm I don't recall seeing that in mind but it must be the same. Actually I meant not very restrictive as far as air flow from the front around the lenses thru the cage and then out the back of the cage. From the front to the back of the cage is fairly clean for air flow. Maybe you should get in there and do some metal reworking, it looks like you have a nice open area. Did you stripe down the whole pj before you put the hushbox on?

When I changed my fans I was quite aware of the fact that the static pressures weren't speced on the silenx fans which usually means they aren't that good. That goes for anything, if the spec is missing it's for a reason.

Yes running it at 1080i/60 is probably one reason why it's running cool. I'm not too concerned with the temps mine is running at.

Yes sometimes it is better to run electronics cooler but they aren't necessarily more stable at lower temps, actually you want them to run warm for them to be stable. Some electronic ICs come with built in heaters so they can keep them at a warmer temp to gaurantee stablity. It's a bit of a mixed bag really.

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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 3:30 pm    Post subject:

WTS wrote:
No, my pj is ceiling mounted. Looking at the pics it does look like there is some blockage, hmmm I don't recall seeing that in mind but it must be the same. Actually I meant not very restrictive as far as air flow from the front around the lenses thru the cage and then out the back of the cage. From the front to the back of the cage is fairly clean for air flow. Maybe you should get in there and do some metal reworking, it looks like you have a nice open area. Did you stripe down the whole pj before you put the hushbox on?

Depends what you mean by strip. Smile The PJ doesn't have the plastic cover or sides on it when in the hushbox. Everything else is there. To install the SilenX fans I removed the back temporarily to make it easier to work on. When putting back the NMB fans I simply unscrewed the back and pulled it out an inch or so to make it easier to work on (I learnt that there's no need to remove the whole back).

WTS wrote:
Yes running it at 1080i/60 is probably one reason why it's running cool. I'm not too concerned with the temps mine is running at.

Yep - 1080i/60 isn't too taxing. Though incidentally, that the scanrate I used for my tests....

Kal

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n@t



Joined: 02 Apr 2006
Posts: 63


Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:18 am    Post subject:

Hi,

nice Pic Smile

Bernd

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Decibel



Joined: 31 May 2007
Posts: 904
Location: Roma - Italia

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 10:04 am    Post subject:

Hi ...

I have read (with difficult due different language) all topic and I want to change my fans.

The change NMB fans with SilenX IXP-76-18 and IXP-74-14 it's still a good idea?

Thanks

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 7:08 pm    Post subject:

Decibel wrote:
Hi ...

I have read (with difficult due different language) all topic and I want to change my fans.

The change NMB fans with SilenX IXP-76-18 and IXP-74-14 it's still a good idea?

Thanks

No. Bad idea. The SilenX fans do not move enough air when any sort of resistance is introduced.

Kal

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Tue May 26, 2009 8:32 pm    Post subject:

kal wrote:
You haven't replaced the angled fan which is good since that only only cools the hottest board: The h-shift/focus board. The vertical and horiz deflection boards get pretty hot too so be careful about those.


Those boards indeed run pretty hot, temps can be seen thermographic pics I took from my BG808s
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=13103.html
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AVphile



Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 334
Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:38 am    Post subject:

Is it the convergence tray or the H/V scan boards heating up that causes convergence drift?
I was thinking to replace the 80mm fan with a thicker (greater static pressure) fan. One fellow said there wasn't room for a thicker fan but I don't believe it!
My goal would then be to reduce RPM slightly to reduce noise.

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Old setup: HDFury3 -> BG-808s -> HD-145
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:54 am    Post subject:

AVphile wrote:
Is it the convergence tray or the H/V scan boards heating up that causes convergence drift?
I was thinking to replace the 80mm fan with a thicker (greater static pressure) fan. One fellow said there wasn't room for a thicker fan but I don't believe it!
My goal would then be to reduce RPM slightly to reduce noise.

Actually it's not convergence that is drifting, whole raster is moving (raster centering) according to temperature. I guess it's caused partly by tube (more drifting if astig is not correct) and partly by electronic heating. Hsift board is highest running board with 120 C degree and that board control rasters horizontal centering.



Vertical deflection board makes vertical raster centering, but it's not running that hot. (around 50-60 C degree)



Usually horizontal direction is drifting bit more according to temp.

I replaced my BG808s 80mm front fan with 120 mm NMB
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=133856#133856
ugly as hell, but lower noise. Hushbox hides that anyway.

In barcos temperature controlled fans helps projector to warm up faster, but after a while it start to recirculate hot air in ceiling installation that means slight temp raising -> drifting. Leading constant cold air (from floor level in my old system) to projector helps to that. You still have to live with "start up" drifting for first 10 minutes or so.
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AVphile



Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 334
Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 4:01 pm    Post subject:

Thanks Ile! You are correct - I'm experiencing whole raster shift but it is not equal for all tubes so they become misconverged. After playing one movie the red shifts away from the green vertically (the most - say 2-3 clicks) and horizontally (less - say 1 click). The blue shifts the least, say 1 click horizontally.
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AVphile



Joined: 02 Dec 2008
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:10 pm    Post subject:

Ile wrote:

Vertical deflection board makes vertical raster centering, but it's not running that hot. (around 50-60 C degree)

Usually horizontal direction is drifting bit more according to temp.


Ile, please give me your opinion on this:

If my red is drifting vertically (straight up) more than anything as the set warms up do you think it is heat related or improper astig setting? It takes a good 2-3 hours to stop moving and is very noticeable on any image. I get a small amount of shift in the horizontal direction for red and blue, not really noticeable without a grid, which I think is expected.

Thanks,
Stefan
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:15 pm    Post subject:

AVphile wrote:
Ile wrote:

Vertical deflection board makes vertical raster centering, but it's not running that hot. (around 50-60 C degree)

Usually horizontal direction is drifting bit more according to temp.


Ile, please give me your opinion on this:

If my red is drifting vertically (straight up) more than anything as the set warms up do you think it is heat related or improper astig setting? It takes a good 2-3 hours to stop moving and is very noticeable on any image. I get a small amount of shift in the horizontal direction for red and blue, not really noticeable without a grid, which I think is expected.

Thanks,
Stefan

Bad astig or loose lens/sheimpflug hardware would be my first guess.

Astig is easy to test, but much harder to adjust. Wink

Fast test for astig:
Go to random access / genlocked pattern / focusing / red / midpoint focusing
Adjust range from min to max and see at the screen if crosshatch center point (raster) is moving during adjustment.
If it moves astig need adjustment, as far I have tested all properly adjusted tubes had pretty much stable raster with this test.
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AVphile



Joined: 02 Dec 2008
Posts: 334
Location: Ottawa, Ontario

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 4:46 am    Post subject:

Looks like I have "bad" astigmatism on the red. I don't know how to set the rings. Curt said they "don't do much on a Barco" when I inquired.
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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Jyväskylä, Finland

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 9:15 am    Post subject:

Yes they don't effect that much to focus, but I have found out that bad 2-pole setting can cause drifting.

So especially red 2-pole ring need attention (tab at neck board side), it's also good to check 4-pole at same time.
2-pole ring is used to get even shading for lines and dots. This means how straight electrons hit to phosphorus.
4-pole ring is used to get dots round.

Moving whole tab turns both magnet rings and turning tab rotates those rings to different direction. So probably you need to chance both.

Good Barco procedure for all tubes alignments is at last two page.
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/BarcoGraphics808s_CRTReplacementProcedure.pdf

Keep in mind that barcos internal patterns dots are square/rectangle (depends about your aspect ratio), so its better to use test patter with round dots from source.

Here's other procedure.
http://www.curtpalme.com/Astig.shtm

Other thing that can help is after astig is done and convergence is done. Set red/blue raster sift to 50/50 from center convergence zone and use vertical deflection and Hsift board pots to center rasters.
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout3.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout2.shtm
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Decibel



Joined: 31 May 2007
Posts: 904
Location: Roma - Italia

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject:

I tried to replace the four stock NMB's with four NF-S12A FLX
Stop all noise, absolutely quieter, seems a digital pj :shock :

But after a half hour a "finger test" Smile I'm back at stock fans: all heatsinks was too warm.

So I'm trying a new approach for my BG1209s
Look the pictures.

Three Noctua NF-S12A FLX instead stock NMB
One internal Noctua NF-S12A FLX that blow air vs opposite Noctua fans (focus, hor. deflection, vert. deflection).
One Silenx IXP-76-18 (120mm - 38mm) that blow air vs opposite Noctua fan (SMPS, G2 board).
Stock NMB for convergence tray.

Today I'll try and will detect warm with my fingers Smile

sorry for language
Suggestions?






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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject:

The noise does not come from the fans but from air turbulance. The only way to reduce noise is to air flow speed.
If you put in fans that move air slower, there's less noise, but the projector will (IMHO) get too hot.

There's no way around this other than a hushbox with forced air ventilation.

Kal

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Decibel



Joined: 31 May 2007
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject:

Here is the result of my test: after half an hour of operation, the focus/shift board was the hottest board.
The SMPS board was very warm.
The boards horizontal and vertical were only lukewarm.
Notes:
- the internal fan no blow air vs focus/shift board
- I'm afraid that the most powerful fan (Silenx) can create a stagnation of hot air in the SMPS board that the weaker fan (Noctua) cannot dissipate.

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AVphile



Joined: 02 Dec 2008
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 1:52 pm    Post subject:

Decibel wrote:
One internal Noctua NF-S12A FLX that blow air vs opposite Noctua fans (focus, hor. deflection, vert. deflection).
One Silenx IXP-76-18 (120mm - 38mm) that blow air vs opposite Noctua fan (SMPS, G2 board).
Stock NMB for convergence tray.


You have fans opposing eachother?
Shouldn't they be blowing in the same direction, helping eachother?

I find the convergence tray fan makes a higher pitched (annoying) sound.

I am curious what your result with be.
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