CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Melifluonze]

It looks like my rasters are well within 1/4 inch of the tube edge. If I put internal test patterns up, I come right to the edge, and maybe even just a touch over.

Moving it up at this point would be difficult... Is this close enough or am I really hurting my performance? Should I try to move it the last inches to fill the tube faces when projecting actual source or leave this margin for adjustment?

I'm leaning towards leave it...

-Melifluonze

[Nashou66]

Never Use the internal patterns for set up!!!

Use a grid from your source as the timings are different.

nashou

[Melifluonze]

You guys are way smarter than me, but my goal was to fill the tube face so I could set the projector distance from the screen.

To do that, the type of source makes no difference I thought, as all you're trying to do is maximize the area your raster will use.

I got real close to using the entire tube face. I might take a pic to show what I mean.

I then mounted the projector to the ceiling at the distance at which the rasters must use 95% of the tube face. Now I can set up each source to size the rasters to fill the screen. When I do fill the screen for any source, I will be using the entire area of the tube face. I think that's what you're saying...

My question is, should I try to get right to the bleeding edge with the raw physical placement of the projector, or leave just a smidgen of unused tube face for error (like keystone)?

I think I'm glad I left some, which I did on purpose, because of the keystone needed! I've got it mounted at the top of my screen (lenses are inside the top of the screen area) The large part of the keystoned raster comes very close to the tube face edge, so I don't think I can really make the rasters any larger.

Only thing I want to do now is reset the projector to defaults and center the raster on the green tube face (with the source I'm using) then center the image on the screen, then lock the projector down. Then center red and blue rasters on the tube faces and physically align the rasters to the green as well as possible (while in focus) by physically moving the tubes. Only then will I start electronic alignment and convergence. Should be the least work for the amplifiers.

It would be nice to be able to move the magnetics around on the tubes to center the rasters on the tube faces with the source timing, then center the rasters to green (in focus), and only then start electronic geometry work, but I don't K ow what coil moves the raster vertically...

HDM adjusts horizontal size with the coils. Deflection yoke moves the horizontal raster. Vertical amp controls vertical size, but what re - positions vertically? My blue is higher than the green and red after I re-injitialization (blow away all settings), and I'd like to move it down physically, not by convergence...

Anybody know how? Is it the focus coil in the black plastic that can move around? And I imagine if I touch this stuff, I'll iteratively have to reset the magnetics for stig, etc...

Sounds fun!!!

[the big E]

Don't use the max width
On my quee I run it in the 80's on the width(curt advised not to run it any wider but I can without harm due to my setup)

Now if you mount the beast on the ceiling then you would need room for keystone(hence the narrower raster) if you go off the tube face then you can overheat and implode a tube(not cool or CHEAP)I know first hand how it is to replace a broken tube with my Sammy rear pro hdtv

I also agree with Nash on using a test source as the internal grids are ok for some stuff but to really tailor it to the signal you need a external test disc(be it blu ray or dvd)

[CasetheCorvetteman]

Only the image must stay within the tube face safe area, the raster will inevitably spill over, however youll be blanking that off.

[stefuel]