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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 4:54 pm Post subject: Arkie Sparkie Marquee Excitement! |
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Last go around with setting up my Ultra resulted in a steady low volume but irritating static crackle that I tried to resolve yesterday and made way worse! I had tracked down the source of the noise to what looked like a discolored tip on the green tube HV lead that goes into the splitter. This HV lead has a different tip than the others, too (newer tube), and it does not have that secondary, clear PVC-looking jacket over the main silicone jacket like the other two have. So my bright idea was to clean the metal tip with some emery cloth. I made it nice and shiny. Result? Loud, spectacular arcing! It occurred from the green tube connection location on the splitter to the metal lid on the green tubes housing where I mounted the splitter. Very exciting. Luckily the projector survived. If I let the splitter dangle in the air (projector is ceiling mounted), dead silent, everything works fine.
Before any of you wise guys tell me to just run the projector like that, do any of you Marquee guys have a solution for this? Is there a recommended way to insulate that HV location?
TIA!
Steve
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stridsvognen
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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Is it not a option to change the HV lead on the green tube.?
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tschaeikaei
Joined: 08 Apr 2013
Posts: 490
Location: Germany/Saarland
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Don't you have any pice of rubber tube or hose laying around that ou could use for that?
Gasoline tube or something of the aquaristic business might work well.
Do roll some insulating tape or other rubber tape around it when it's done.
Best regards, Julian
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Marquee 9500U edgeblend P43 | NEC 9PG
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:51 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | | Is it not a option to change the HV lead on the green tube.? |
The arcing issue is happening at the splitter, so I don't think I have to replace the entire lead.
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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| tschaeikaei wrote: | Don't you have any pice of rubber tube or hose laying around that ou could use for that?
Gasoline tube or something of the aquaristic business might work well.
Do roll some insulating tape or other rubber tape around it when it's done.
Best regards, Julian |
Good suggestions. I'm trying to find my other splitter to see if the current one is leaking. And I'll also try your suggestions.
Much thanks,
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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I think I found the culprit. Close examination of the silicone jacket right above the snap collar shows a crack. Based on the arc event I saw, that's exactly where it was arcing was coming from.
Had anyone cut and reterminated the tip of the HV stuff before?
Steve
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tschaeikaei
Joined: 08 Apr 2013
Posts: 490
Location: Germany/Saarland
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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Is the insulation cracked or the copper wire itself?
If its just the insulation, do it with the pipe and insulation tape.
if the copper is cracked too, take a piece of copper wire and put it beside the wire in the cable.
A pin from a resistor or so should do well.
this will work till you get your new cable.
dont worry about the higher resistance at that part, the 40kV wont care about some mOhm.
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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| tschaeikaei wrote: | Is the insulation cracked or the copper wire itself?
If its just the insulation, do it with the pipe and insulation tape.
if the copper is cracked too, take a piece of copper wire and put it beside the wire in the cable.
A pin from a resistor or so should do well.
this will work till you get your new cable.
dont worry about the higher resistance at that part, the 40kV wont care about some mOhm. |
Just the insulation. Tim (eTech) told me to try to soften and melt the jacket with a lighter. This has greatly helped - it is no longer arcing, but it is still crackling a bit.
Thanks for the suggestions. I need to reterminate it at this point. Tim is sending me some solderable tips so I don't have to replace the whole lead.
Steve
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tschaeikaei
Joined: 08 Apr 2013
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Location: Germany/Saarland
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 1:09 am Post subject: |
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Just add a bit insulation (tape) and the crackling will be gone too.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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Brand new HV leads are $25 each incl shipping. I'd change all three.
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
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Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Brand new HV leads are $25 each incl shipping. I'd change all three. |
And at that price its hardly worth thinking, just do it.
Heat shrink will do well, but itll be a pain in the arse in that location.
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1643
Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | Curt Palme wrote: | | Brand new HV leads are $25 each incl shipping. I'd change all three. |
And at that price its hardly worth thinking, just do it.
Heat shrink will do well, but itll be a pain in the arse in that location. |
I'll likely pick some up from Curt to have them on hand but changing the entire lead requires a fair bit of disassembly on the Marquee.
I didn't think heat shrink would work because we are dealing with HV. As Tim (eTech) described it to me, HV is like high pressure gas that will leak from the smallest defect. He told me the clear tubing on the outside of the silicone jacket is not for electrical insulation, it's just there to protect the silicone.
The best fix for now seems to cut the lead above the crack location and reterminate the tip. I will try the heat shrink while I wait for the solderable tip from Tim to show up.
Thanks for the suggestions, guys.
Steve
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
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| Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 4:08 am Post subject: |
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You could cut and reterminate, but if its failed once, itll likely fail again. Itll take a few layers of heat shrink. A block of neutral cure silicone will also do the trick.
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
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Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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| CasetheCorvetteman wrote: | | You could cut and reterminate, but if its failed once, itll likely fail again. Itll take a few layers of heat shrink. A block of neutral cure silicone will also do the trick. |
Understood. Reterminating should negate the need for heat shrink. I thought I could try some heat shrink in the interim but then realized I wouldn't be able to get the right size needed over and past the snap collar.
Steve
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Brand new HV leads are $25 each incl shipping. I'd change all three. |
So are Steve's, just a year old
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CasetheCorvetteman
Joined: 09 Nov 2008
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Location: Australia
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 4:26 am Post subject: |
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No you will need to remove the tip either way, so just cut and redo the end.
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4269
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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You sure the issue isn't the splitter? They fail often and it's an easy fix.
craigr
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
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Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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| CIR Engineering wrote: | You sure the issue isn't the splitter? They fail often and it's an easy fix.
craigr |
Yes. I tried another (assumed) good splitter, same thing. I physically saw the arc coming from the collar of the HV lead to the green tube, which is the one that has the small crack at that precise location.
Best,
Steve
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mr_ro_co
Joined: 08 May 2006
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Location: Santa Fe NM
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| Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 1:38 am Post subject: |
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I got impatient for the tips to show up so I did my own. I dug through my stuff and found some nice seamless molex butt splices of identical diameter, cut the HV lead past the crack and soldered the splice on with lead-free solder. I had to carefully shorten the splice a few mm with some heavy duty cable cutters to get proper fit into the splitter. It works! No more arcs, hissing or crackle!
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