CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

Standby led and fans come on. No response to remote control. Any suggestions?

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

Are you using the IR keypad? Are the batteries new? Is the IR sensor visible next to the red lens?

Are you holding the Power button down for required two seconds? Remove lower front panel and check the diagnostic LEDs on the front of the lvps. Check LEDs on the control board, rear panel. Press any button on the keypad and look for the C LED to flash on the control board.

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

Plugged it in again and waited for a while. Pressed "power" heard a couple of clicks fans made more noise. The red LEDs on the back go back and forth left and right. I waited a long time but nothing changed. The LEDs just kept going back and forth. No lights showing in lvps.

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

Reseat every socketed chip on the control board and deflection processor board. Clean chip contacts and chip sockets with denatured alcohol. You will need a plcc chip puller.

If that does not help then your control board is toast

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

This pj has just enjoyed a trip across the country in a packing crate. Prior to that is was retubed and tested by a dear friend to all of us who cling to CRT. So it makes sense that something has jiggled loose.
Can I get an overview of the architecture of this model so I can start pushing and shoving in the right places before I start removing and reseating each chip? In the meantime I will find a chip remover so that I can go as deep as you indicated. I appreciate the need for a chip remover. It's been a lot of years but I still remember the pins get bent and my fingertip bleeds if I pull a chip without one.
Thanks

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:22 pm Post subject:

The set came from me. Your issue most likely is a loose chip on the CLM board, the one with the sequencing lights.

Unplug the set for 5 minutes, then pull out that board. The chips you want to reseat are teh square socketed ones. You can't pull them out without a special tool, but there's no need to. Just push down hard on each one while it's in the socket. you will most likely hear a 'click' as each one reseats slightly, and I'll bet the set will fire up.

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

" Sequencing lights" Confused

??????????

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:31 pm Post subject:

Yes, the red LEDs that you said go baclk and forth Smile

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

OK
That board is a slider outer after I loosen the 2 screws
Pushed on all the chips that are mounted in sockets.
Removed the 2 boards mounted ontop of it with the phillips screws.
Put it back together.
Same symptoms Question

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:55 pm Post subject:

Did they cliick into place? Usually you need to push on them with one thumb, and use your other thumb on top of the first one to really give pressure. Short of that I'll need to send you another CLM board when I get back. I don' t know anyone that will have a spare in Canada. Give that reseating of the chips another shot, that's almost always it.

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

I will try that again harder
Thanks again Curt

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:05 am Post subject:

Those lights mean a communication problem between chips on that CLM board...

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

My thumbs are sore now
I get it that a trip across the country in a box would be no fun. I'm sure I wouldn't enjoy it either.
Put it out of your mind please Curt and let's get back to it when you get back.
Thanks again

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

My wife found a package beside the door today addressed to me. It was from Curt. Opened it , replaced the CLM board with the one in the package. Turned on the PJ, pressed # a few times: test patterns !
Thanks Curt; it's alive.
I'll pack up the old board and send it off in the next few days.
Thanks again

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 12:46 am Post subject:

YAY! Damn, that was pretty fast too, for once Canada Post was on the ball!

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

Throw distance calculator is .exe. Ie) not Mac friendly. Doesn't load on iPhone either
I have the lenses off and I've adjusted the size so that the crosshatch almost fills the front. In a perfect world the picture would just fill the screen but then the test crosshatch would overscan the CRT. So I expect to fill the raster face with crosshatch, put a 16x9 image on, attach the lenses , and see how far from the screen I end up at with a full screen. So far so good?
Can anyone tell me how far I should end up at with my 5' x 9' screen?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

The best way with a Marquee is to max the raster with an external image not the internals. And after you might find the internal pattern will go off the tube face. This is normal.

The just move the PJ to fill the screen .

The throw calculators are never exact just approximate.

Nashou

416ray4538 · Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 517 Location: near Toronto Ont

So for setup, external test patterns would be better too?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Melifluonze · Posted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:13 pm Post subject:

GREAT luck with your new 9500LC!!!

Alright... Since I'm about to do the same thing (set up my resurrected 9500LC with new tubes from Curt and a bunch of swapped and changed parts and stuff) and I want to screw it to the right spot in the ceiling and at the right distance from the screen, I'm watching this thread intently... Shocked

(last time I did this was in 1998 or so... so I forgot all of it, and the setup guide is just a bit too not detailed for me...)

So, you can really maximize the rasters with the external source set to a test pattern (external source set to the frequencies you expect to be watching) and then it's alright for the internal test pattern in that mode to go off the tube face???

I thought that "off the tube face" was a no-no...

Just want to totally clarify before I start construction here... And, no, not trying to hijack the thread... I remember the projector behaved much differently with the high frequency source compared to the internal test pattern. But I guess the main thing is to fill the raster, then set the distance?

And... what do you do if you have multiple sources, set up for the highest frequency one that will be watched the most, then do the rest later when it's up on the ceiling? Again, maybe it's just important to set the raster wide to position the projector...

- Melifluonze