CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

I just got a cine 8 with 3600 hours on the chassis. Green tube was horribly burned, swapped in a 7.5-8 green tube. Now i have RGB all around 7.5-8.

The issue is that my blue tube is less bright as the other 2 tubes. When projecting the focus patterns during the installation procedure i can clearly see the dots from green and red but blue dot's are a bit dim and i can't get a decent focus.

I tried removing the lense and adjusting the Focus unit but that did not seem to make any difference (looking directly into the tube). (doing this with the default settings, just noticed that the manual states that midpoint focus 57 and contrast 80 is required)

Am i doing anything wrong here? Or is there something wrong with my chassis (hope not).

barclay66 · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:33 am Post subject:

Hi,

There are several things You can do:

- Check the G2 settings. The one for blue might be too low.
- Check the Neck Board. You might try to swap the green against the blue board.
- Check Your signal source. If You're feeding RGB (on BNC) You could try swapping colors.

Regards,
barclay66

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

- Check the G2 settings. The one for blue might be too low.

The led is not green so it should be okay, although i see ppl doing it manually?

- Check the Neck Board. You might try to swap the green against the blue board.

Could try that, they are all interchangable?

- Check Your signal source. If You're feeding RGB (on BNC) You could try swapping colors.

Using internal test patterns.

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

It looks a lot like this http://www.curtpalme.com/Astig4.shtm

Any tips on doing this on a barco? There is a section about this in the tube replacement manual but still not very clear to me.

Maybe the unsharpness in the images gives me the impression that the brightness is lower.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

No, the unsharpness as you call it should make the blue brighter. There will probably be a switch or menu setting in there somewhere to electrically defocus the blue, as this helps get good white balance. Youll almost certainly never be able to tell the blue is defocussed when watching a movie.

I dont know what menus there is for white balance on a Barco, but put on the grey scale test pattern and adjust the white balance setting for the blue tube. You cant judge white balance by using the dot pattern, its only good for astig setting, nothing else.

If it looks anything like that link you posted, you need to do the astig again.

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

Ah so it might be a setting in one of the menu's. Will take a look at it tonight!

Hopefully this is the solution, that would be a lot easier then tweaking the tubes near the high voltages.

barclay66 · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:22 am Post subject:

Cash was faster than me and he's right.
Just some additions:
- Neck boards are interchangeable.
- The circuit around the G2 LED might not be working correctly. Visual inspection is better.
- Check, if there is a menu setting called "Blue enhance" or similar. I had this on my Barco Graphics 801s and it made a difference.

Regards,
barclay66

Ile · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:39 am Post subject:

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

barclay66 · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:03 pm Post subject:

Hi,

First, use this document for reference. G2 Adjustment is on Page 43 of the PDF: http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/BarcoCine8_Install.pdf

Counterclockwise should be lowering and clockwise should be increasing G2. Just as Ile pointed out:

Ile · Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 1:19 pm Post subject:

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

I adjusted the G2 potentiometers, Green was a bit too bright and blue a little bit too low. This fixed my issue with the lightoutput.

It's still a bit unfocused, i might try astig adjustement but will leave the controls alone for now, the live HV scares me a little.

HaydnG90 · Joined: 22 May 2006 Posts: 1356

Blue will always be a little more diffuse especially compared to red.

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

Starting to get my whole setup together (PS3 - HDFury III - Cine 8).

Currently projecting on a 180cm wide gray screen (82 inch 16:9). I got the positioning okay ( it's on a big speakerbox so it's a few centimeters too low), image is within the tubeface.

Brightness/Contrast

Issues

- on bright scenes i can see the edge of the tube (light leaking next to the projected image). Is this normal?

- I have some line-like artifacts on the left, only visible on the left during bright scenes. (all tubes).

All my convergence settings are between 30 and 70 so that should be fine.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

How big are your images on the tube face? Sounds like they are abit on the large side, can you take a pic of the tube face and show us the phoshor area youre using?

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

Can't take a photo now but they are +- in the middle of the tubeface and 4-5 mm from the edge (maybe even more, bit hard to judge by looking through the lenses.

I do think the projector stand a bit too much too the right so maybe the left corners from the image are a little bit too close to the edge which causes the lines i see on the left + the visible edge of the tube? (white wall so very visible, i can mainly see the left bottom corner of the tube-edge).

Hulio · Joined: 15 Apr 2006 Posts: 494 Location: Belgium

It is possible that you forgot to set the blanking ?
Also, play with the phase in the geometry menu and see if it's getting better. Doing that, you move the image
in the raster. If rasters are set well, the middle of your image should coincide with the '' > < '' sign, otherwise :

a) your PJ is not square to the screen
b) raster centering is not ok
c) you use too much horiz. width with blanking fully open

The best way of setting geometry is using a test pattern (with the same format as your screen, e.g. 1,78:1 etc.)
from your source (PS3).

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

a) your PJ is not square to the screen

Will do measurements again tonight

b) raster centering is not ok

This looked good

c) you use too much horiz. width with blanking fully open

This might be the problem, i have a lot of blanking on the right and almost none on the left. I could try the HDfury adjustements for this! Good thinking Smile

The best way of setting geometry is using a test pattern (with the same format as your screen, e.g. 1,78:1 etc.)
from your source (PS3).

Downloading the AVSForums calibration dvd now, will try it later, where did you get your DVE disc? Can't seem to find it on any regular site.

My vp50 pro arrived today, also have those test patterns available.

Hulio · Joined: 15 Apr 2006 Posts: 494 Location: Belgium

I've got my DVE blu-ray from Amazon.com.
Click on the ad. up on this page, they still have it.

fragzero · Joined: 30 Aug 2012 Posts: 344

I just spend 5 minutes thinking about this, i must have mad a mistake in my temporary setup, the genlocked patterns are all a bit too much to the right but the PS3 was within my projection screen.

I probably made a mistake in my quick calculations but due to the HDfury horizontal offset i had to fix this using a lot of blanking on the right and 1-2 blanking on the left. This is probably the cause of the artifacts on the left + the image on the tube is probably too close to the edge due to this error.

Thanks for the tip - i had forgotten that we can order from amazone.com!