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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:02 pm Post subject: Barco 808s Left side convergence on 1080p |
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I've been playing around with sending a 1080p signal to my Barco 808s. I like that it appears to be sharper than 720p but I can't seem to get it to converge both red and blue on the left edge of the screen.
*Adjustment in one region will effect the adjacent region and vice versa so I can't get both to converge properly. Sometimes I run out of adjustment range when doing this.
*I am not sure if this is just the nature of the unit; it can't do this resolution with out fault or, if it is a setting or adjust I might need to make. The adjust might be physical or in the menus.
*I have set up the unit phyically based on the Barco guided setup.
*Unit is fed by from an Onkyo 5507 set at 1080p output through an HDfury II.
*While not an expert on CRT setup, I have had the Barco for several years so I have 'played' with all the menus and settings, and I am technical.
*I did do extensive searches for this issue but could not find a similar problem.
*Any help is greatly appreciated.
Bill
_________________ Everything in moderation including moderation.
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Motobias
Joined: 08 Jul 2008 Posts: 163 Location: Osnabrueck, Germany
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| Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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reset all settings, erase all convergence
start with raster centering and good mechanical setup.
then go step by step like you would do normally.
what refresh rate are you running ? maybe you are running out of bandwith aswell
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 1491 Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Probably kind of source related problem. Barco like bigger timings (back porch) that new sources designed for digital displays have with 1080p. Usually 720p works better, I guess porches are same sized in both but analog display needs bigger timings for bigger resolutions. Horizontal beam doesn't have time to stabilize before active picture starts and this causes wavyness to start of line.
You can try to compensate problem by adjusting active picture inside raster to right using Hphase and then moving whole raster to left using raster centering. Probably there is no room for this inside raster, because of short timings. Some sources have so small timings that picture is cropped or wrapped at left or right (depend about Hphase setting) edge.
Real fix for this is scaler or computer with custom timings.
I like to test some day how removing horizontal coils effect to this problem and raster ringing...
If there is good amount of unused raster at left edge, then it's something else.
Bit smaller picture size in tube face might help to convergence problems, because horizontal linearity is worst near tubes edge. Width coil adjustment could also help to even out linearity differences.
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opv
Joined: 18 May 2010 Posts: 202 Location: Emek Hefer,Israel
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| Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:03 pm Post subject: |
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Are the guns aimed at correct angle?
If the angle of the guns isn't correct, you'll need extreme convergence values to compensate. in some resolutions and refresh rates, the convergence range might not be enough.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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I have a Zenith 1200 which is basically a Barco Data 808s with LC lenses. 1080p works well but I still do prefer 1080i as it's sharper.
The 808s can most certainly do 1080p but as you're seeing, setting it up is more difficult than 720p or 1080i. You need to get all the steps in the right order and understand how they interrelate.
Since you're technical, see this advanced steps guide I put together here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco_Setup_Quick_Reference_Guide.shtm
The trick here is if you can't do a certain step correctly, you'll likely have problems farther down. For example, correct mechanical setup is critical. There are some things you can compensate for possible in later steps but often you'll be pushing the electronics or be at extremes. The margins get smaller at higher resolutions which is why some people can set up (say) 480p and 720p fine but struggle at 1080p.
Kal
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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 8:51 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tips.
I have some time off over Christmas so I think I will go back in and check the mechanicals and try some of the other suggestions on H-phase.
I will post results.
_________________ Everything in moderation including moderation.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like my mechanicals where off because I used the base/top of the unit at the mounting for my leveling point.
Rastor position was off because of this. Still working on adjustments but it is looking better.
Also, wanted to know how people are getting an image to fit a 9:16 screen. I'm adjusting the vertical size all the way down. This seems to work fine in the past but now that I have re-leveled I can't get it to go far enough. This would imply that I need to move the projector more forward to shrink the image.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Here's the correct way to set throw distance on any CRT projector:
| Quote: | While following the manual for throw distance is always a good bet (and recommended for new users), to maximize tube life even further do the following steps:
Put the projector on the cart or simply leave it on the floor so that you can move it.
Display something that fills the screen entirely (like a grid test pattern).
Using only the green (middle) tube, look into the tube and increase the image width on the tube face until it is around 1/8" to 1/4" from the edge of the white phosphor. Under no circumstances should you allow the image to go off of the white phosphor surface!
Move the projector back and forth until the image fits your screen.
THAT is the correct throw distance for optimal phosphor usage.
It'll usually be 5-8% closer than what the manual tell you because the manual throw instructions are conservative since they make you install blindly without even looking in the tubes at all. |
See: http://www.curtpalme.com/TubeCondition_PoorInstall.shtm
Kal
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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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I have done this by looking into the tube. My top to bottom was not centered do to leveling being incorrect. The side to side is about 1/4" from the sides.
How about the vertical sizing? Do most people just adjust the vertical size all the way down or is there another way? I tried to do this through the Comcast box or the video processor in the Onkyo but was unable to find a setting that will work.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, I have adjusted the vertical size to its limit but still have too much overscan. So, I think I need to move the projector forward a little.
_________________ Everything in moderation including moderation.
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FSE
Joined: 26 Jul 2007 Posts: 14 Location: Lafayette, CO
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| Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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So I moved the projector forward to reduce the overscan at the top and bottom. This is with the vertical height set to the lowest point. Unfortunately, moving the projector forward made the image width go to far on the raster so it is in the keep out zone.
It appears that I can't adjust the vertical height far enough to get the proper 16:9 image.
Is there a way to adjust vertical height farther by adjusting something inside the projector?
I will take a look at the service manual when I get a chance, too.
_________________ Everything in moderation including moderation.
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