CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

dturco · Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:05 pm Post subject: PT-22 tube issue

Well Ain't this just great. I finally got around to putting in the PT-22 tubes I bought and well the neck is too short for a Marquee. They came out of an Ampro unknown model.

I am uploading photos soon.

http://s955.photobucket.com/albums/ae34/dturco/PT-22%20issue/

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

are you sure it`s a pt22???

i have a pt22 and it is exactly the same size as a p19lcp09

dturco · Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:38 pm Post subject:

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

yes sorry,i was to quick with my reply.

my pt22 tube is a pt22-19 iirc instead of a pt22-08.

maybe that`s the reason he sold them this cheap.

this really sucks dave, you could shorten the housing of the marquee and try it.

check if the pinout is the same as a regular pt22 to be sure.

dturco · Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:49 pm Post subject:

The neck boards fit the tubes no problem. I was just about to remove the neckboard cage to see if it would light up. Without releasing the magic smoke.

Here are pictures of the tubenecks.

http://s955.photobucket.com/albums/ae34/dturco/PT-22%20tubes/

dturco · Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:38 am Post subject:

I removed the neckboard cage put the neckboard on, no picture. But the tube does glow at the end. I swapped the green video rca over still no picture or anything. I then put the red video rca on the green and the green light up.

Did my neckboard go bad? or something else?

What do I check and how?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:56 am Post subject:

Swap the neck boards, but I think you need to take off the pin 6 pin, enlarge the hole, and put the G2 wire on pin 6. I think the G2 pins are different.

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

darn, i warned him to make sure if the pinout was the same.

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

Curt is probably right. Look at the gun and see which pin the G-2 element is connected to. You might need to mod your cards.

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

If the projector is started with the G-2 element not connected to anything the CRT usually turns full on. DO NOT FREAK OUT AND YANK THE POWER CORD!!!!!!

The projector will turn off the HV after a couple of seconds. Turn off with the remote control.

If you are careful, messing with G-2 is not a problem.

Scott

Edit. Point to correct G-2 element in this pic.

dturco · Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 1:34 am Post subject:

Ok Guys thank you. I'm went to get something to eat, I just now checking back in. I did turn on the PJ and the contrast was at 75 or so even though I had turned it down to 20 when I took the tubes out. I just turned the power off with the remote.

The red tube never lit up, but the green and blue tubes did. If anything happened to them I doesn't matter they were still the old tubes.

So to mod the board all I need to do is drill the pin 6 on the neckboard out correct? Then I place the G-2 wire on tube pin directly?

Everything's coool Cool

I added 3 new close-up pics here

http://s955.photobucket.com/albums/ae34/dturco/PT-22%20tubes/

I also noticed there aren't any wires hooked to the 2 pins in the "Keystone area".

Is this what I need to do?

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=30273#30273

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

removal of the r38 and replacement with a 1megohm 1/2watt is only necessary if you have a kh grid like in the lug so make sure it`s there.

r37 (330k) going to pin 6 should be removed.

this same config as on pin6 should now be applied on pin 2 i suppose, so from pin 2 a 330k (1/4w minimum) to ground.

dturco · Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 3:14 am Post subject:

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

you MUST remove pin r37 otherwise you risk tieing G2 through the 330k to ground when swinging the tube and thus wiggle the g2 wire.

2 and 6 are reversed so now you can solder a resistor 330k from pin 2 to ground.

dturco · Posted: Fri Dec 16, 2011 12:58 am Post subject:

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

i wouldn`t risk that.

if you cannot solder ask someone to do it for you to get a secure connection.
i wouldn`t feel comfortable knowing the connections made are crappy.
flux makes soldering much easier, you will need it to connect the resistor to the big ground surface as it requires a lot of heat and without flux the solder won`t flow nicely.

you could use the 330k from r37 to tie pin 2 to ground.

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Nah, forget the resistor removal. I did a few like that no issues.

Athanasios

dturco · Posted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:06 pm Post subject:

OK I have everything up and running. I have 1 PT-22 Red tube in and the P-19LCP G&B. The focus on the G&B is much better than the PT-22 and the image is sharper on them too. This has always been the case though, the red was always less sharp the the G&B.

Are the focus coils weak maybe? Also I tried to us the 4 pole magnetics from the Ampro but the focus was worse with them, than the original 2 poll from my Marquee. The red dots and grid lines also stay "Fat" always has and the lines bloom also,they look kinda fuzzy always have.

Any Ideas?

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

Have you tried stig and flare alignments? Elongated dots in stig gives fat test pattern lines or worse.

.

dturco · Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 1:36 am Post subject:

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Can you take a pic of how"fat" they are? but first swap green to red focus wires.

Remember red always focuses a little less than Green, but what your describing sounds worse.

Athanasios