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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 5924
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| Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 10:33 pm Post subject: Better paint than Flat White? |
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Just got my D50 set up thanks to all the help from this site. I'm projecting on a flat white sheetrock wall in my office. Screen size is 90" 4:3. The image is VERY sharp but the colors don't seem to have any "punch" to them. Is there anything I can do to the wall to help? Is a gloss white better than flat?
I saw instructions from Kal about painting blackout cloth. Would I get the same 1.3 gain from using the same paint on sheetrock?
Thanks!
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zaphod
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 2002
Location: Cloverdale
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| Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 11:05 pm Post subject: Re: Better paint than Flat White? |
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| whats6x7 wrote: | Just got my D50 set up thanks to all the help from this site. I'm projecting on a flat white sheetrock wall in my office. Screen size is 90" 4:3. The image is VERY sharp but the colors don't seem to have any "punch" to them. Is there anything I can do to the wall to help? Is a gloss white better than flat?
Thanks! |
use screen goo. it's a paintable screen. get it at markertek.com or other places.
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GEBrown
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 729
Location: Denver
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| Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2006 11:16 pm Post subject: Re: Better paint than Flat White? |
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| whats6x7 wrote: | Just got my D50 set up thanks to all the help from this site. I'm projecting on a flat white sheetrock wall in my office. Screen size is 90" 4:3. The image is VERY sharp but the colors don't seem to have any "punch" to them. Is there anything I can do to the wall to help? Is a gloss white better than flat?
I saw instructions from Kal about painting blackout cloth. Would I get the same 1.3 gain from using the same paint on sheetrock?
Thanks! |
According to your signature, you are running a 1272 or a 1020. First question is which projector are you viewing? Second question is how large of a "screen" are you trying to view?
If you are trying to view a screen wider than 80 inches with either of those PJ's, then you are not going to get much "punch" IMHO.
If you go over to the DYI Screen forum on AVSForums.com you will spend HOURS reading "What is the best screen?" Searching the archives will expand those reading hours.
First of all, not all "white" paint is the same.
Second of all, Behr Ultra Pure White (aka UPW) is one paint that is recommended often.
Third of all, Screen Goo is another paint "system" that is recommended. I'm not wanting to start an argument with zaphod, but when I read those threads, I got the impression that the rolling technique for the different layers of Screen Goo was critical to getting a good end result.
My 2 cents
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zaphod
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Posts: 2002
Location: Cloverdale
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 12:06 am Post subject: Re: Better paint than Flat White? |
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| GEBrown wrote: |
Third of all, Screen Goo is another paint "system" that is recommended. I'm not wanting to start an argument with zaphod, but when I read those threads, I got the impression that the rolling technique for the different layers of Screen Goo was critical to getting a good end result.
My 2 cents |
no arguments here, personally i dunno about rolling technique affecting the final product ... with screen goo that is. i've got an Elite Home screen myself. i've just heard lots of successes with Screen Goo.
and i agree about not all paint being the same. I've used Benjamin Moore for years with great success but certain "in home lobbying" has me trying Behr brand. i've never had a lot of luck with Behr, but it's pretty strong lobbying. and i do enjoy the one stop shopping at Home Depot.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
Posts: 5924
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 12:15 am Post subject: |
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Sorry, need to update my profile. I'm using a VPH-D50Q with 2000 hours and tubes that look great. I have a 90" diagonal 4:2 screen so it is 72" wide. I know about AVS forum and I have spent hours looking over all the posts but most talk about Screen Goo or screen materials. I am going to use a wall.
I just want to know is eggshell better that flat? Is gloss better than eggshell? I know pure white is best but has anyone ever blended something thats better?
I don't want to spend the money on Goo or be that critical about perfect rolling techniques. Just looking for a suggestion about paints before I start experimenting. If I don't like something I can always paint over it. What would you suggest?
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kal
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TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 12:26 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Kal, Now I just have to find Behr Ultra Pure White eggshell (#2050) aroound here somewhere.
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kal
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:08 am Post subject: |
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Yep, we just got a HomeDepot here this summer and they have it in stock. I'll follow your instructions (including the floetrol) and let you know if it makes a difference. I'll probably buy some molding, paint it black, and nail it to the wall for the frame.
Now my only problem is my office where the projector is has white walls and a white ceiling. I really don't want to paint the entire room black. Any ideas on a color for an office/personal theatre room other than black?
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:16 am Post subject: |
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Kal,
I know you said to follow the instructions to a "T" but how important is the primer? The wall already has a couple of coats of flat white paint on it.
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kal
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zaphod
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
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Location: Cloverdale
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 5:04 am Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | Should be fine then. The primer's just important if the surface is completely un-prepped. Primer's only function is to seal the original surface and give the paint something good to stick to. If the wall was properly primed and then painted, by all means just paint right over it.
Kal |
top coat paint over top coat paint can peel if you don't scuff up the surface - particularily if the existing topcoat is a gloss. and latex over oil can peel and flake too. if you want to be sure that doesn't happen, scuff up the existing top coat and put on a primer that will stick to either oil or latex (unless you know for sure that the existing topcoat is latex) but will also allow a latex top coat, Bullseye (available at HD) is such a primer. whenever i'm going over unknown paint i use a coat of bullseye primer first.
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whats6x7
Joined: 04 Oct 2006
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tip Zaphod. The existing topcoat is cheap Walmart latex flat white. I can't imagine it will repel much of anything. Still, if I'm going to do this right, I might as well take the time to put on a coat of primer.
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kal
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paw
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Arvada, CO
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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If you're not stuck on the paint,  you might want to take a look at the Do-Able and Laminate (Wilson Art Designer White) threads over in the DIY Screen section of AVS. They look to be good, non-paint alternatives. No worry about lap marks, lumps, etc. The Wilson Art Designer White (DW) is very durable. It's counter top laminate. A little spray cleaner and a paper towel cleans up a lot of stuff.
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Person99
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX
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| Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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No offense to Kal, but I disagree with him on the 1.3 gain claim.
You can get positive gain from paint because positive gain means there has to be somehting in the surface to introduce a directional reflection to the light. There is nothing in the paints that would do that.
About Screen Goo, I've compared Screen Goo to Behr UPW and had others look at the comparison. No one can tell the difference. Screen Goo's gain has been professionally measured at 1.0 (just like Behr UPW).
Dave
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kal
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| Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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Intresting Dave.
I agree it's not 1.3 - I had cut and paste the text from somewhere else so I've modified it now to read around 1.1-1.2 gain which is what I *thought* it actually was when I went back recently and looked at it again.
It still seems to be very close in gain to the 1.3 samples I have, but if you've measured it and it comes out around 1.0 then you're most likely right. It does however really help compared to unpainted blackout material. Which I guess proves that unpainted material is way below 1.0.
I changed the painting instructions to say "around 1.1 - 1.2" gain. If someone mentions it again I'll change it to 1.0. 
Kal
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Person99
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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Location: Flower Mound, TX
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| Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: |
It still seems to be very close in gain to the 1.3 samples I have, but if you've measured it and it comes out around 1.0 then you're most likely right. |
Be careful with the 1.3 gain samples. Carada 1.3 gain is 1.0. Carada 1.0 gain is .7 gain. Vutek 1.5 gain is less than 1.0. Draper M1300 is around 1.1 or 1.2 (can't remember). Stewart is truly 1.3.
So, the ones you are comparing it to may not be 1.3 gain!
I've not measured it, I don't have the tools. Others have measured the gain of the screens and published them.
If you direct Goo Systems to those, they (Ken) claim essentially, "we think the industry standard way of measuring gain is wrong. We have a completely different way that everyone in the industry thinks is wrong, but it gives us a better number than 1.0."
Dave
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kal
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WTS
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Calgary
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| Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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If you want a great screen at a great price call Hurley screens, they've been in business since the 30's I think, they don't normally cater to the Home market but they had no problem with me ordering a custom sized one.
I used the painted board screen to start with, not bad, got the formula from AVS can't recall what it was called now. Then I bought a Hurley screen, night and day difference in my opinion and you cannot beat the price. They will custom make the size you want and it will have metal eyelets every 6" for stretching and fastening to a frame which can be made out of EMT(electrical conduit pipe) cheap to make too. Buy one you won't regret it.
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Walter
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