CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[CIR Engineering]

Sorry, I had the wrong pages, Curt's manual is a little different than mine.

craigr

[perisoft]

OK, I set the clamp to H/C; we'll see what that does.

I'll check the manual.

[CIR Engineering]

[perisoft]

[ecrabb]

[perisoft]

[CIR Engineering]

Yeah, I think the haze is from a crappy noisy source, especially since you don't see it with a digital connection

If the clamp is wrong, the colors can drop out, so the internal test patterns with no source connected is a really good idea in many ways.

Also, I would keep the hatch open while you work on it. When green drops out, check to see if the heater stays on or not. You may also want to fiddle with the BNC connections on the B board and neck cards. While you are at it, you could tell this poor guy which colors go where on his B board

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=269022

If green keeps dropping out you could start by swapping neck cards between the blue and green tubes. You could try swapping the red, but I think it is 180 degrees opposite the other two due to the tube orientations.

craigr

[perisoft]

[perisoft]

OK, so, I had it run for a while and got it to do "the thing". It took a while, and it did "the thing" for maybe 4 or 5 minutes. I got some pictures.

It was exciting.





Any ideas? It just kinda snaps back to normal like nothing ever happened. I've tried to have it sit there on a test pattern with no input, but it seems to drop back to a screensaver mode, so short of sitting there for an hour poking it every five minutes, I'm not sure how to check more.

[perisoft]

OK, update: I had it sitting there with no input and color bars and for some reason it stayed there... it did the same thing. Dropped green mostly for a few minutes and then came back on its own.

So, seems like it's gotta be an internal problem. Ideas?

[ecrabb]

Hmm... So, just green is cutting output by 50% or so... I'll have to let Curt or Craig chime in on this one.

You just moved the machine... Have you double-checked and/or reseated all the cards?

SC

[CIR Engineering]

Well, my first guesses would be a neck card, bad connection to the neck card (check all wires and reset neck card on tube), tube, or BNC connector between the C and B board.

craigr

[perisoft]

[CIR Engineering]

[stefuel]

Disconnect the HV lead from the splitter and touch it to the head of your wang. If you see no change in length or girth you're probably good to go

That's how Curt does it (from what I've heard)

[CIR Engineering]

[perisoft]

Craig, is there an ISF standard for nutshock discharging? I'd love to be in the classroom for that one.

Anyway - I pulled/reseated the b-board, and checked the wiring over to the G neckboard, and reseated that again too. There was nothing obviously off.

Fired it up, and spent a while screwing with scheimpflug, focus, etc (got optical focus better in 20 minutes than it's ever been on the Barco...). The PJ was probably on for 3 hours total, though I wasn't looking at it the entire time. I didn't see it flicker.

So, we'll just have to see how long that holds. With an intermittent problem, it sucks, because maybe it acts fine for two weeks, I hang it up, and wham, out goes the green... Guess I just gotta play it by ear.

[CIR Engineering]

[perisoft]

OK, I gotta say I'm kinda pleased with myself for this one.

I can't be sitting here looking at the PJ all the time, right? And I don't want to be running very high contrast either. But I need to know if the thing is dropping out. What to do?

Well, I had that webcam, right? My initial idea was to code something myself, but I found that unnecessary. I grabbed a nice app called Yawcam, which lets you see the webcam in a more direct way and without Logitech's awful software. I set it up to not have auto gain control, turned the contrast down to about 24, and pointed it into the lens. Now, even with the contrast down and the sensitivity down, the camera just sees white. But I have it looking at the edge, so the tube light blooms outward.

I have Yawcam set to motion detect, like for intrusion detection - and I set the detection area to be the area NEAR the tube face. If the contrast drops suddenly, the bloom goes away, and WHAM, it records the time and takes a screenshot.

So, I can leave it running like this for quite a while, on super low contrast, and if the green drops out it'll record when and for how long. I tried it, and if I quick drop the contrast down by even about 10% with the remote, it'll grab it.

If I had more time I'd have a VB app recording the luminance to a graph, but I don't. But this should work fine since the events are always sharp.

Yeah, go me.

(Oh, and by the way, Yawcam will grab any webcam installed, and let you use its settings. And since you can stretch it around on-screen and actually enlarge the image (!) and it uses software, Focus!Focus! (my MTF detector) works perfectly. So there's another problem solved.)

[Curt Palme]

[Curt Palme]