CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[JustGreg]

This is a long one but I want to be throrough.

I replaced the red tube with a new one a month ago...set powered up fine.
Just replaced the G&B with almost new tubes and no go. The G&B came with all coils and mags in place so I used those.
The set powers up, the HDM relays do their thing but the last relay, which I assume is the call for HV, latches but no HV.

I've swapped out or checked:
CLM
Neck Boards
HV Splitter
FCM
Don't have a known working HDM spare
Checked all cable connections
Reseated the FCM and HDM multiple times
Reseated the HVPS and LVPS-I have spares but it isn't easy to drop the pj to change them. The pj face is upagainst an I beam.
I've checked the umbilicals several times but haven't replaced them. That's next.
Checked/reseated the wired remote, LVPS and HVPS connectors at the UMB and LMB.
Removed the connectors from SAB
Disconnected the FCM
I have NO spare heatsink boards to try

The heaters ramp up in amplitude when the set is on if that means anything and P14 was set with connector disconnected before the red tube was installed. (6.35v) I haven't checked the voltage with P14 connected and set on however.

There are a couple things to note that happened thoughout the retube process:
1) After installing the red tube I found I had to reseat the HDM several times before HV would energize. The set powered up fine every time after that.

2) The new blue Stig cable white wire was ripped out of the metal connector at the board plug. I didn't notice this until I was troubleshooting for no HV after the set had obviously been powered up once and the HDM reseated again.

3) When lowering the blue tube I learned the hard way the HDM and cage should be removed as the end that is secured to the rear heatsink; (which was being suspended in the open position) dropped. The only thing holding it up was the front cage screw but I caught the board (cables still connected) before it could slide too far out of the cage. No broken width slugs but I didn't meter test them.

The next thing while waiting for a reply is to swap out the PS's (then test), pull the red tube and closely check the UMB connectors (then test) and put in new NB umbilicals and test. The only other thing I can think of is to remove all the tubes and remove the LMB and check the solder joints for the HDM female connector. God only knows how many times the HDM has been slammed in and wiggled over the years prior to me owning the pj.

Any other ideas? Is it possible one of the formerly working (before shipping to me) tubes and/or yokes could prevent HV? I suppose I should add putting the old tubes back in to the list. *sigh* I'd appreciate any voltage test nuggest anyone might have also.

Thanks guys.

[Sparky015]

Greg, sorry to hear you still have no joy. So to replicate your situation, everything worked until yuou made the G & B tube change, then nothing, correct? The only other thing that happened was the #3 HDM incident. You touched nothing else?

#1 seems fishy. Could be mother board, could be HDM as well. You need an HDM to check. You can also do a continuity check of the motherboard HDM connector as well to verify good connector / solder joints. If you need the motherboard schematic, let me know, I believe I have it. I think it's also on Nash's mini website as well. I think that's where I got it in the first place.

#2, although disturbing that it's damaged, should not affect HV. ASTIG is not tied to that circuitry, only deflection, focus, tube ribbon cables, VIM and CLM.

#3 may tie to number 1, but if you caught it before the wires caught, I would think there was no harm, no foul here. I would think you would see an H-fail light as well.

Given that you don't have any diagnostic lights, it may be a PS, but sort of doubtful, as there is even a light for those. No diagnostic lights on the LVPS lit?

You could try hooking back up your old tubes to see if it is infact a bad tube. Not feeling it though. Meter the deflection and focus yokes. THe resistance values should be similar to your known good red, and even your old B and G tubes. If one of them is open, it will also not allow HV to come on. That will vet out the magnetics, at least the main magnetics needed for HV.

Check the motherboard connector for the HDM. Are the contacts clean? Having to reseat it a few times to get it to go seems to point to dirty contacts.

Let me know what you find. I hope you find those tubes are OK. I also hope you don't have to drop the pj.

[Sparky015]

out if curiousity, if you disconnect one of the the horizontal cables, do you get a H-fail diagnotic light then, or still nothing and no HV?

[macgyver655]

Alot to read and maybe I missed it but did you recheck for a bent pin on any of the tubes?

[JustGreg]

[JustGreg]

OK...I got it. A wire at P5 wasn't secured in the connector. The little metal tab that keeps the crimped on connector from backing out was flattened. Put a little angle action on it...plugged it in and JOY JOY JOY!!!

I've never had new tubes before so not sure what the output is supposed to be with factory G2 but the blue at 60 isn't as bright as the R&G. Is that normal for blue? Mechanical focus seems kinda crumby too; at least on green. But it just got a full initialization so I'll know better in a couple hours if something's amis with the FCM. WOOHOOO!

Thanks for replies guys!

[Spanky Ham]

[dvh99]

1 advice do not glue the focus yoke yet (or don`t at all).
do this after astig has been done properly.
and you might want to check convergence timings.
cmjohnson started a thread on it a while ago.
and yes blue light output is much less.
good thing you got it working.

[CRT_Ben]

[Nashou66]

Glad you got it working. I have computer problems at work all day so i was doing that and did not look at CurtPalme.com once the whole time !!

I think I screwed myself with my Back of House computer. might have to do a clean install if i can get out of the repair mode it keeps looping too. but thats another story.
At least someone got something working right tonight!

Now get on with the set up!!!

Nashou

[JustGreg]

Thanks man! So far the few minutes of pattern I had streamed from the PS3 were rock solid with no jitters.

I didn't do anything to the pj after getting it running except for maxing the rasters. Then on to finding the right spot for the screen and getting it hung.

Gotta pull the red lens again tho...I didn't get all the Sharpie marker center dot off. I'm moving into the final stages but MAN I hate doing magnetics with a frigged up back like mine. I'll get it done and be bedridden for a couple days but it will be worth it!

And wait...whu?....YOU are getting your butt kicked by something electronic??? No way. You just need to step away from it for a while and it will come to you....probably in your sleep.

BTW Paul, the blue output is fine at factory recommended settings. I just had to turn the lights down and it looks fine. Gotta get a colorimeter and do grayscale to be sure tho. (Nash?...hint hint)

[JustGreg]

[Sparky015]

Greg,
Glad to hear you figured it out. I'm disapointed so many issues with those connectors. I wonder what happened? Did they get stuck in the foam? I'm really sorry about that. I am glad that your back up again. Hopefully you won't have to do too much to the magnetics since they were done by Electrohome. Hopefully just ASTIG.

Now heres hoping I fix my arc issue and repair three boards this weekend!

[macgyver655]

[JustGreg]

[cmjohnson]

So sell them on ebay "as is" with no warranty expressed or implied. "I have no way to test these." But be sure to tell us your ebay handle so that we don't buy them!

Actually...how low IS their emission? Can they be driven to a usable brightness level? They may still be good enough for me to use them
in a test rig...if I can ever get someone to sell me a Marquee chassis for a fair price, that is!


CJ