CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 12:12 am Post subject: snap crackle pop

Question for you guys. Fired up my projector after getting the new tubes installed, and upon the HVPS kicking in, there were two large snaps on the red tube (I could see light coming out of the hole in the plastics where the HV lead comes out). After that, things came on, but nothing out of the tubes and I have H-fail diagnostic light. Any ideas? shorted deflection yoke?

I hope I didn't just set myself back. Crying or Very sad

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

Get out a flashlight and look at your red CRT's face...NOW. Does it look unusual?

With the PJ off, gently wiggle the CRT neck, too. Be sure you didn't just pop the neck off the tube with a shorted deflection yoke and burn-through.

Once I lost a blue tube to this sort of thing. It was a brand new P19LCP. Neck came clean off it. No fixing that! But I had another
blue tube to put in that I had been hoping to put back as a spare for 20 years from now when I finally wore out the tubes.

CJ

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

OH NO! SAY IT AIN'T SO!!! Shocked

Bummer to the nth! You can try this thread...basically just backtracking everything you did and reseating everything.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=173110

I hope an arc didn't jump and take out the HDM. Curious...can you still see light at the tube neck from the heaters?

I'll keep looking too. I can NEVER quickly find the lights explanation in my service manual! Evil or Very Mad

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

looks like it.
really sorry to hear this paul i hope you get it fixed quickly.
dont look too much at the diagnostics they give weird indications.
there is probably nothing wrong with your hdm or clm.
did you use new or old hv leads and if new did you put them in well.
i hope the tube isnt kaputt.

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:03 am Post subject:

tube looks ok. neck is still intact, nothing seems amiss looking into the face. I did resuse the old HV leads (they are the newer kind with the clear tubing over them. I'm pretty sure I seated them good. I lifted the covers as I did it so I could see the leads snaping into place before pushing down on the covers to get a nice ring of silicone to make a seal. Unfortunately the plastics were on, so i have no idea what exactly arced. I have a feeling I now have two problems, whatever caused the arc in the first place, and now a lack of HV, unless the protect circuit kicked in, in which case I'm not sure why it allowed the HV to start and arc in the first place.

Any ideas of where to start? I did not touch any of the boards or supplies, only replaced the tubes with new bellows. I did this on purpose just in case. I suppose removing red and taking off the magnetics? If it arced, I should now be able to see it I would think. I hope I didn't blow a brand new tube. I will be sick to my stomach. Embarassed

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:10 am Post subject:

Oh, and yes I can see the glow on all three tubes from the heaters, but down at the base near the neck board, not towards the face.

dvh99 · Joined: 25 Dec 2009 Posts: 2158 Location: nederland

well i know that with my pj the hv wouldnt kick in when just 1 tube was installed i had to install 3 of them in order to get the hv kick in.
i got all sorts of weird failure indications on the clm
h-fail v-fail both h&v and kit(the car) failure indication.
you probably knicked a wire on the yoke, at least lets hope that is all.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

If you don't have all three tubes connected, you must at least connect up the neck boards and deflection yokes even if there's no CRT present. It won't fire up without certain things connected.

There's also a jumper you can make up to fool the PJ and allow you to run just one tube. It goes on the UMB where the neck card cable plugs in. Please don't try this until Tse confirms it but I THINK that the required jumper runs between two of those pins but I won't say
which ones without confirmation from Tse.

CJ

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:27 am Post subject:

Pulling the tube now. I hope that's all I did.

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:28 am Post subject:

no, all three tubes are connected, which is why I'm concerned. Either the arc sealed the deal in completing the short and now the protect circuit recognizes it and won't power up, or I smoked something when the arc happened.

JustGreg · Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI

Found this related thread from last year over at AVS. I hope it provides some help.

Oh jeeez! Forgot to paste the link. Embarassed

Now I gotta go find it again. Dumbass! Evil or Very Mad

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 1:43 am Post subject:

I pulled the tube and took off the housings and magnetics. I see nothing. Tube looks fine, deflection yoke looks fine. The next thing for me to do is a resistance measurement and compare it to red.

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:00 am Post subject:

I checked the yoke in comparison to the others and at least resistance-wise, they seem OK as well. Now I'm starting to get stumped.

Scott, if you have a way to cheat the PJ for diagnostic purposes to power up one tube, that would at least tell me everthing is OK system wise, although I'm not sure what arced on the red tube.

CZ Eddie · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 1601 Location: Austin, TX

You dont have any spare boards to swap around?

I'm assuming you reseated the focus board & HDM before posting here, right?

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:05 am Post subject:

I only have a spare VIM. I haven't touched the boards, so my initial concern is finding the cause of the arc. From there I can determine if I took out a supply or board. I heard things clicking on, just not that glorious crackle of the tubes powering up.

CZ Eddie · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 1601 Location: Austin, TX

If there is no crackle, then the most likely suspect is your projector is ceiling mounted and the cover is not in place, so your HDM isn't seated properly.

I wouldn't worry about the snaps unless it happens every time. I've been through several with various Marquee and never had a problem. Just reseat the boards and it'll go away so you can start watching movies.

Oh, and make sure your G2 lead on the neckboard is correctly situated whenever swapping tubes. Otherwise you could lose a tube. Shocked

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:12 am Post subject:

no, pj, is still in my shop on the bench. The tubes tried to power on, got two large snaps coming from the red (saw the light of the snaps throw the holes in the plastics for the HV lead), and that was it. Tubes have not tried to power on since. I have not touched the HDM, so I can try reseating it, but I have a feeling my problem is not that easy. I hope I'm wrong. So far at least, it doesn't look like I smoked a new tube

CZ Eddie · Joined: 23 Mar 2006 Posts: 1601 Location: Austin, TX

If you're really worried about the red tube causing a problem, then you might unhook HV to the red tube and then power the set on.

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:19 am Post subject:

I tried that, unhooking HV from the red tube and powering back on. Same thing, tubes won't power up.

I'll give that a shot. You could be right. New tubes breaking in, and the HDM somehow being loose in the socket, causing the HV shut down. I will dance a jig if that's it.

Sparky015 · Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:47 am Post subject:

I reinstalled the red tube, reseated the HDM and focus and all the connections from the yokes and coils and still no power to the tubes. Is it at all possible that the arcing is normal for new tubes and it took out a module?