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incova
Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:31 am Post subject: red c element replaced leaking glycol, why? |
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As the title says I just replaced the red c element but I have leaking glycol, the O ring is in place and I have opened it once before to check it as it was leaking the first time, the ring is not out of shape so I have no idea what is going on, could this be residue from outside the ring being forced out? I have tightened the screws as far as I can and I have replaced c elements before no idea what going on here should I wait and clear the residue then see if more comes out or try yet again?
_________________ The more I learn
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:39 am Post subject: |
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Well...obviously there is a leak.
But seeing as you didn't mention what projector/tube housing you are fiddling with, it's hard to know what is wrong...
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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incova
Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:26 am Post subject: ah sorry |
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Its a Ampro 4600, it has a O Ring or washer that goes between the c element and the housing for the glycol, I had assumed that the O ring was out of position but its fine so I thought maybe the screws were not tight enough but that seems ok as well............
_________________ The more I learn
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:52 am Post subject: |
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Well, the AmPro c-element is about the easiest in the world to do. Assuming the o-ring is not cracked, is in place in a clean ring grove, the sealing surface of the c-element is clean and not scratched and you followed a tightening pattern while putting it all together, it should not leak.
If however, you cranked down the first screw and worked your way around, it's probably not sitting flat on the o-ring. If that's the case, back off all the screws about a half turn. Make sure the metal ring is loose then gently tighten all the screw in until they just touch. Then follow a pattern of tightening like points of a clock 12-6-9-3-10-4-7-2. Go around a couple of times, snugging up a little at a time until they are tight. If that does not solve it, you will need to take it all apart again and inspect everything for damage.
If you were a animal and cracked the hub of that red c-element, you will be banned for life
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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incova
Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 11:05 am Post subject: will try again |
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Thanks Chip, not sure what went wrong this time, I will give it a go again I pretty much used that method but lets see, maybe third time lucky.
_________________ The more I learn
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | is in place in a clean ring grove, | The "ring groove" is called the Gland
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter.
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | | stefuel wrote: | | is in place in a clean ring grove, | The "ring groove" is called the Gland
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter. |
Sorry dude. You can wink till you go straight but the sealing material IS the gland and NOT the grove it goes in.
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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I would have thought Viton would be the right material, not EPDM (?).
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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| stefuel wrote: | | draganm wrote: | | stefuel wrote: | | is in place in a clean ring grove, | The "ring groove" is called the Gland
I would repalce the o-ring, a bag of -rings runs about 10 bucks for typical sizes. Make sure you choose EPDM as the material, then just get the correct width and diameter. |
Sorry dude. You can wink till you go straight but the sealing material IS the gland and NOT the grove it goes in.  | I have the Parker O-ring guide right in front of me . The "sealing Material" is called an o-ring. The Gland is the groove the o-ring sits in. The gland dimensions are critical and will change depending on whether it's a face seal, static shaft seal, or reciprocating shaft seal. Gland dimension include depth, width, and max corner radius on bottom of Gland. Also specs for use of Parbak rings in the gland for ultra high pressures.
http://www.oringsusa.com/html/gland_design.html
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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You are mis-reading it. The "gland grove" is the area that holds the packing gland. The packing gland does not have to be a o-ring. It can be any material that provides a seal between two or more (usually moving parts) like a gate valve shaft, drive shaft in a inboard boat. The gland material can be as simple as grease impregnated roap wrapped around a shaft and held in place with a threaded adjustment nut AKA packing nut.
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Mark_A_W
Joined: 15 Mar 2006 Posts: 3068 Location: Sunny Melbourne Australia
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| Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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All this is so helpful...
Incova, are you certain it is leaking from around the c-element?
It's not from around the tube is it?
(There are no bellows on an Ampro housing, are there?)
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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incova
Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london
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| Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:07 am Post subject: hi all thanks for all the help |
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I took Chips advice, I took the c element of the tube and then redid it AGAIN, and voila finally the dam thing is sealed! I must have put to much pressure on some f the screws and too little on others it just kept leaking, I have changed c elements so many times as well, thanks again guys!
_________________ The more I learn
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