CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

Ironman1965 · Joined: 28 Jun 2007 Posts: 98

Hi all.

Need to replace green tube on my XG135 (P16LJE07HKA). Contacted VDC and they recommend sending in my old tube so they can swap over hardware. Wondering what the pros think. How difficult/dangerous is swapping over the tube hardware. What are the chances of damaging my new tube. I'm not an incompetent and can handle delicate tasks. But I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn lately, so I'm not up for brain surgery yet Rolling Eyes

. What do you fine people think, to swap or not to swap? That is my question. BTW, I'm not in need of the core charge and wouldn't mind keeping the old tube for spare. Thanks.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:55 pm Post subject:

This is mandatory, and will save money. VDC sells only the raw glass tube, and it needs to be installed into your tube hardware, aka metal mounting piece that holds the tube to the chassis. You will need to take off the magnetics (yokes, etc ) before you send the tube in, and you'll need to realign that when you put the new tube into the set.

VDC surcharges $100 if you don't send the old tube in. IF it's worth $100 to you to keep the old tube, then get them to use their hardware.

BTW, taking the old tube out of the metal bracket is a royal PITA, esp. on an NEC. I've never done it, but have done other tubes. I'm doing a 9" Marquee right now, it's a 4 hour affair at least.

MikeEby · Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Posts: 5237 Location: Osceola, Indiana

Ironman,
Curious what kind of price are they asking for a green tube? New...I don't want a rebuilt.

Curt,
Do you ever sell toasty tubes that can be used as donors?...I don't what to tear my projector down prior to the swap, if I would decide to retube the green.

Mike

Ironman1965 · Joined: 28 Jun 2007 Posts: 98

Ahhh!

Thanks Curt for the quick response. So the mounting hardware is the issue then. I'm guessing it's glued or epoxied on then? They can install their own hardware? The $150 core charge isn't an issue. My original tube has some light text and screen burn, but isn't really that noticeable unless a pure white screen is projected, so I'd like to hang on to it for emergency purposes. Do you know what they charge to add the mounting hardware? Also is all the mounting hardware the same with all XG non LC PJ's, or do they need certain info (ie Serial No) to do this. Thanks again Curt.

Ironman1965 · Joined: 28 Jun 2007 Posts: 98

jarseneau · Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 323 Location: WI

In answer to your question about how difficult a job this is I would encourage you to go ahead. I've replaced at least 3 tubes and have un-installed/re-installed tubes many times without incident. I would not recommend doing the mounting hardware piece as it is really hard to get things apart without damaging things so I would leave that to VDC.

Some helpful hints; before you start, take a few pictures to help you remember the placement of things, connections, wire routing, etc. As you remove the neck hardware, you'll find a cone-shaped ring between the main and focus yokes. Don't forget to put it back in during re-assembly. The main yoke mounts against the CRT bell and the focus yoke fits right against the main. You should put the 6-pole magnet in the same placement as it had on the old tube. The 6-pole tabs can be fragile so be careful not to snap them off by inadvertently hooking a wire or holding the tube with them. You will eventually need to do a full Astig setup but that comes later. For a good guide see this.

WanMan · Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 10270

Wow, $800 for a green tube for an XG. Is this an LC, or AC?

jarseneau · Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 323 Location: WI

The tube starts out bare without mounting hardware so at that point they are neither AC or LC. It depends on which mounting hardware gets installed and that can be done by VDC or the buyer. So basically the $800 gets you just the bare tube and from there you can send them your old tube with hardware and pay them $100 to do the 'transfer'. Not sure what they might charge if you don't supply donor hardware. By sending in your old tube, you qualify for the $100 core refund.

Mark_A_W · Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:05 am Post subject:

Ironman1965 · Joined: 28 Jun 2007 Posts: 98

Mark

Ever done a non LC. That's what mine is. If so what's the jig look like.

Mark_A_W · Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:33 pm Post subject:

You don't really need a jig on a non-lc.

Just drain the glycol, and fill the chamber with mineral turpentine.

And carefully fill the back of the casting with a syringe to get the silicone at the back.

After a few days, the glass will be easily removed, and you can press off the housing with a block of wood.

The hardest bit is getting the HV lead off intact. Just carefully pick at it with your fingernail.

It it all sounds too hard, pay VDC $100 to do it. But that's not an option for me, we have to DIY over here.

jarseneau · Joined: 06 Nov 2007 Posts: 323 Location: WI

That's good to here that it can be doable. So with your method it sounds like you can leave the front glass in place and pry the tube off from the back. Presumably the bracket is firmly held in a vice and you pry on the tube to get it off. Do you add some heat to soften the silicone or use piano wire to saw through the bead? My issue was that I couldn't seem to fit any pry tool at the backside of the bracket. Do you apply most of the prying by torquing on the tube bell/neck itself. I'm sure I'll be tempted to try this again.

Mark_A_W · Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:27 pm Post subject:

No, you have to remove the front glass.

You don't use heat, you use turps.

Then you push the bracket off.

If you try and pry anything, it will end in tears.

Ironman1965 · Joined: 28 Jun 2007 Posts: 98

Mark, you seem to have experience at this. I'm going to order the new tube today. Just got off the phone with VDC and they said they have hardware for Sony tubes only and none for the P16's, so that's out of the question. Here goes my questions.

FYI: I don't even know what the tube looks like outside of the PJ. So bare with my questions.

Mark:

1) You refer to LC tubes. Mine is not LC. Can the mounting bracket be pressed off with wood jig as you stated earlier? I think I have an idea for a jig to do this job assuming the bracket is just a ring around the front of the tube.

2) You suggest soaking the silicone in turpentine. Approx how long? and is it OK to just set the tube face down in a bucket with an inch or so of turpentine.

3) You state "mineral turpentine". Do you mean the actual foul smelling turpentine, or mineral spirits (much like varsol and not near as offensive to the olfactory senses)

4) What type of silicone is used when attaching the ring to the new tube, and is the ring a press on tight fit? (Another jig required)

5) How long should silicone cure before installation?

6) Speaking of silicone what type recommended for the HV lead?

7) Any other suggestions/warnings before my tube arrives?

Note: I'll be following the XG tube replacement guide written by John Robinson Oct '02. (seems quite thorough)

Thanks Mark

Mark_A_W · Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:38 pm Post subject:

1. Yes, but you don't really need a proper jig. A block of wood or two and some clamps will do it. You MUST remove the glass first.

2. A few days in turps. You have to drain the glycol (keep it) and replace with turps. Sit face down in ~20mm of turps in a dish, and squirt some carefully into the back of the housing/tube gap. Try to avoid the lead tape.

After a few days, the silicone loses all it's strength. Cut the glass off CAREFULLY using really thin razor blades. Then press the housing off.

3. The stinky turps you use to clean paintbrushes for oil based paint.

4. Black Acetic cure (the stuff that smells like vinegar).

5. A few days. A week is good.

6. For the HV lead, you should use RTV silicone.

7. There is a guide here for bleeding tubes, written by Kai. Read it, much of it applies. When you put the glycol back in you want a reasonable bubble at the top.