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benareeno
Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 1614 Location: ottawa, canada
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:35 pm Post subject: wear leveling, a different option |
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Has anyone tried to put some sort of tape or something on the tube face to wear level the tube? Something translucent that would mimic the light lost through the existing wear?
It would seem that this method could be more exacting than running the projector on a high contrast pattern...
the problem being, I don't know what I could put on the tube face...any ideas?
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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A neutral-density filter of the right darkness *might* work. But remember that as you get more and more wear, it's not just a matter of light output. The browning that happens with more severe wear also filters out some of the wavelengths and changes the primary color emitted by the tube. You can't put that back.
So maybe a ND filter could help with cases of light wear, but not bad cases.
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MikeEby
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Posts: 5237 Location: Osceola, Indiana
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder if an HTPC app could shade an area slightly, enough to even out the wear. Problem I have with uneven wear is the edge of the wear area is darker, maybe where retrace happens?
Mike
_________________ Doing HD since the last century!
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ecrabb Forum Moderator
Joined: 13 Mar 2006 Posts: 15909 Location: Utah
TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, you could do something with an HTPC... That's what Perisoft was working on for his 808 before he understood the scope of the problem. He ended up getting a new set of tubes, if that tells you anything.
What projector, Ben.... Is this the G70? I don't see how it work without taking the tube out of the LC mount and putting it back together. Next, your "mask" for lack of a better term would be very sharp, while the edge of the wear is likely not very sharp at all. It would help that wasn't in the same focal plane as the phosphor, but that brings up the next problem... You don't get to see your results or adjust anything without putting it all back together. I really don't see how the idea would work well at all even for AC tubes, but definitely not for LC.
SC
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benareeno
Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 1614 Location: ottawa, canada
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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I am not looking for a 100% solution...but yes, I think an ND filter of the lightest setting could help. I could likely put it on the tube face exactly where I would want it.
I may even have some of this material at home...it looks like film, and it would likely stick right to the tube face....although LC may present a problem there, but maybe not.
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MikeEby
Joined: 24 Jun 2007 Posts: 5237 Location: Osceola, Indiana
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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| benareeno wrote: | I am not looking for a 100% solution...but yes, I think an ND filter of the lightest setting could help. I could likely put it on the tube face exactly where I would want it.
I may even have some of this material at home...it looks like film, and it would likely stick right to the tube face....although LC may present a problem there, but maybe not. |
Me thinks I should probably just get a new green tube...Can you even buy a new tube for a NEC LC?
Mike
_________________ Doing HD since the last century!
Last edited by MikeEby on Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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Get a full frame screenshot of each color individually projecting a full white raster. Full red, green, and blue, to be precise.
Do the screen shot at very high resolution with a very good digital camera, taken from as close to the lens center path as possible.
Load this into your PC and use it to generate a reverse mask of the wear pattern. Boost the contrast ratio until the image has a dramatic
contrast between worn and unworn areas. You want full white on the unworn areas, black on the worn areas.
Project this image and align it very carefully to match up to the existing wear pattern. Set the contrast high and run it for days, weeks, even months, in an attempt to even out the wear. Periodically check the progress and if there are any variances, make a new mask set
and repeat the process.
This is how you would even out the wear. It will work but it takes time.
The other method is to watermark all images going to the projector. The watermark is a negative of the wear pattern.
CJ
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messerfloh
Joined: 04 Dec 2007 Posts: 18 Location: Bavaria, Germany
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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levelling the wear with tape...? Methinks, the edge of the tape will clearly be visible because you cannot fade it out...
So you might get a levelled picture with lines in it. Driving out the devil with the help of beelzebub
But, WTF, give it a try and report the result!
Nice line of thinking, though! I like such unconventional approaches!
Greetz from snooowy (at least!) Bavaria!
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 2920 Location: Ithaca, NY
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| Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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| ecrabb wrote: | Yeah, you could do something with an HTPC... That's what Perisoft was working on for his 808 before he understood the scope of the problem. He ended up getting a new set of tubes, if that tells you anything.  |
I was well aware of the scope of the problem. That's what made it interesting... The filtering worked quite well to get rid of the brown tinge, actually - my blue tube was absolute toast and a theater gel cut the green/red right out. It's too bad I didn't have the good gamma software and color balance setup experience I do now using the DSLR, or I could have gotten a good comparison.
I upgraded the tubes because it's obviously still optimal to have less wear - if nothing else than for light output, which is obviously reduced.
But I think that color balance can be restored with the right filtering. And I got an inverse luminance map working in ffdshow which made wear leveling immaterial - I just used avisynth to put a luminance overlay per-channel, and it knocked the wear pattern out pretty much completely.
With filters, some work, and an HTPC, I think you could get essentially perfect color even with very worn tubes - at the expense of brightness. But if you've got toasty tubes, already have a PC, and can't afford new tubes... you can really pull a lot of quality out of nowhere.
I can dig up some of the filtering and inverse mapping results if anyone is interested.
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VideoGrabber
Joined: 09 Apr 2006 Posts: 933 Location: Michigan
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:29 am Post subject: |
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Peri wrote:
> I got an inverse luminance map working in ffdshow which made wear leveling immaterial - I just used avisynth to put a luminance overlay per-channel, and it knocked the wear pattern out pretty much completely. <
That's a really slick idea!
_________________ - Tim
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perisoft
Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 2920 Location: Ithaca, NY
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:10 am Post subject: |
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| VideoGrabber wrote: | Peri wrote:
> I got an inverse luminance map working in ffdshow which made wear leveling immaterial - I just used avisynth to put a luminance overlay per-channel, and it knocked the wear pattern out pretty much completely. <
That's a really slick idea! |
Thanks! The nice thing is that you can just change the overlay translucency to tune the amount of wear knockout, so you don't have to get it perfect the first time through. It was really quite cool.
You can use the same technique to eliminate hotspotting at the same time - in fact, if you have a good camera / lens combo, the same images you take to knock out the wear will also knock out hotspots - and any other imperfections in the screen surface!
To really get it right, though, you need to calibrate the *camera*, too - if you want to compensate for hotspotting, you'd need to light the whole room as evenly as possible, ideally by reflecting lights off the back wall, to get the screen so it's lit uniformly. Then you can take a reference photo, which will have any vignetting errors the *camera* has baked in, and invert/overlay THAT on top of your inverted screenshot of the *projected* white screen.
Simple!
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