CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Nashou66]

I was working on an LC chamber for one of the Thomas Tubes , it was one I am going to
test Epoxy paint over the aluminum to see how it holds up to Glycol. Well while working
on re assembly I broke off the HV cable from the boot end.

I was pissed!! So I removed it and was going to replace it with one off a broken Tube Tim
sent that was connected to an LC chamber i needed.

But being the curious and adventurous person I am , I decided to dissect the HV lead boot.
I found out that the HV wire is not that thick and its not even welded or soldered to the HV
clip, its just held in by pressure!

So I was able to remove the clamp and replace the HV cable after stripping it a bit.
I did not replace it to the tube yet but will do so and report back if it works. Some one
might have done this before but for me it was new so I decided to take pics and post them here.


Clip inside boot



Clip Removed from boot



Clip Is actually two pieces, notice the oxidation on the one piece



Strip HV lead Wire



Clean Clip Oxidation




Put one section back in



Feed wire through Boot and over first clip section



Instal second section of clip pressing down on one side till it "snaps" under inside boot lip



I then Used Rubber Electrical tape instead of heat shrink, as you can see i added some
extra beef to it by wrapping it around the boot knob. next time it wont twist of as easy

Electrical Rubber tape added



Now I just need to get some RTV and install it to the tube let it cure for a few days and test.

Athanasios

[LOTREE]

[psilvest]

This is useful stuff - it seems that, since the wire is not soldered, it is unlikely that the contact under the cup is damaged by twisting the wire. Only by (also) pulling the wire one can break the contact, right?

As mentioned in another thread ( https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=19781.html ), I thought that a broken HV connection was the reason of an M9000 tube being apparently dead, but further checks showed this is not the reason (which leaves me puzzled as to what could have gone wrong with the tube, I can only imagine some failure in the electron gun).

By the way, does anybody know the approximate capacitance between anode and aquadag for a P19 tube?

Pier

[stefuel]

The little nub on the splitter end is soldered on. You can remove the end along with the old plastic tubing to inspect and clean the cable. Then slide on new tubing for better insulation. Not rocket science

[tse]

[Nashou66]

Well, It didn't work this time, it snapped from the boot, but I had a bit of a problem when i was putting it on the tube. I first put the RTV on and tried to match up the anode hole with the clips, it was moving all over before i got it snapped into place. So i removed it again and noticed the clip inside shifted up in the boot recess and was not connected well to the anode wire on the one side. Also there was some rtv on the Anode hole and on one of the clips. So i cleaned it all up and this time i connected the Boot to the anode hole, pulled back the boot and touched the hole and the end of the HV wire that goes to the splitter to make sure there was a connection between the clips and the hole contact. I then put the tip if the rtv tube under the boot and squeezed it out as I went around the boot. I then pressed on the boot to squeeze the RTV evenly under the boot. I'll try to fire it up again tomorrow.

Athanasios