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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:25 pm Post subject: Startup After Long Term Storage |
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I see some having problems after their projector has been stored for some time. This can apply to all electronics but I'll use projectors for the conversation. This is only opinion and is not a sure thing but is your best chance of survival. If you read the cap thread then you have and idea of reforming and cap degradation.
2 issues to be concerned with after long term storage are cap degradation and condensation.
First suggestion would be to bring the projector into a warm dry room and allow it to remain there for at least 24 hours before attempting to power up. This will insure that any condensation, if formed when coming from cold to warm environment will have evaporated.
Next, again before you even plug it in is to connect an input and have it set at a very low resolution. Just enough to display a moving picture. Now turn it on and see if there is a picture. If not then select the input of the source.
The important thing is, do NOT turn off the projector for at least an hour. Even if you cant get a picture. This is the time frame to reform any degraded caps. Turning it off prior to a degrade cap being reformed can send a voltage spike to other components and cause damage. Also, do NOT make any adjustments during this period. Just leave it alone. If the tubes have a bright stationary image just turn the tubes off with the remote.
After an hour, any caps that are capable of being reformed will be. If you have a failure after this, then there was no preventing it or it was already failed.
At least you gave it your best shot.
This may not be a sure thing but its the best you can do. The chances of survival are at least increased substantially.
Last edited by macgyver655 on Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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Good advice. At least you didn't say plug the set into a Variac (inside techy joke!).
AS I posted elsewhere, I had two boards fail in a barco 800 that was stored for 2 years in a warm room (the HT ceiling), so it won't always work, but you're right, better than powering up cold..
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | Good advice. At least you didn't say plug the set into a Variac (inside techy joke!).
AS I posted elsewhere, I had two boards fail in a barco 800 that was stored for 2 years in a warm room (the HT ceiling), so it won't always work, but you're right, better than powering up cold.. |
I'm curious Curt. On that 800, were you making adjustments during that 10 minutes? If its the post I'm thinking.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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No, I booted it up three times. It came up fine the first time, had HV and a picture, but I wanted to tweak the H width pot and only had an all metal screwdriver, so I turned the set off, tweaked the pot a touch, and powered back up.
Got no HV, but no scan fail light. A cap shorted on the EHT board. Had no spare parts with me, so I pulled the EHT board, and powered back up. Then a cap blew on the SMPS, and it started to chirp. Took both boards home, found the bad caps, took them back to Portland the following week, and all was well.
I can't see either failure being due to the tweaked H width pot...
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | No, I booted it up three times. It came up fine the first time, had HV and a picture, but I wanted to tweak the H width pot and only had an all metal screwdriver, so I turned the set off, tweaked the pot a touch, and powered back up.
Got no HV, but no scan fail light. A cap shorted on the EHT board. Had no spare parts with me, so I pulled the EHT board, and powered back up. Then a cap blew on the SMPS, and it started to chirp. Took both boards home, found the bad caps, took them back to Portland the following week, and all was well.
I can't see either failure being due to the tweaked H width pot... |
2 things I would think. shut down in a short time not giving the caps enough time to reform. I actually edited my first post here after what you said.
Second thing is making adjustments before caps have had time to reform. Changes in current with unformed caps.
Of course as you said you didn't know the set has been off for a few years.
Just some food for thought... 
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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one point to make regarding electronics in a humid/damp environment such as a garage or uncontrolled basement would be connection oxidation, specifically non-soldered parts such as ICs that just sit in an IC holder. Good thread.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Sparky015 wrote: | | one point to make regarding electronics in a humid/damp environment such as a garage or uncontrolled basement would be connection oxidation, specifically non-soldered parts such as ICs that just sit in an IC holder. Good thread. |
Paul have you ever used or heard of Stabilant22? I am using it now on the longbows hoping some of the issues I have might be poor continuity. it seems to work with lubricating the contacts. I need to finish the whole PJ but some back ground noise I was seeing has reduced. But that could be just the scraping of any oxidation off. but the connectors do come off much easier, just a slight tug instead of the wiggle and tug which can break solder joints. So at least it helps in that department.
Athanasios
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kschmit2
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1141
Location: Heidelberg, Germany
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 7:29 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for reminding me of Stabilant. I have been trying to remember the name for a few months now, but couldn't find it.
Kai
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Sparky015
Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH
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| Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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I have never used it personally, but I've heard it's good stuff. It certainly doesn't hurt (just make sure it doesn't hurt plastics, ie the connector housings). In my experience with any of my designs, direct solder connections is always the best when dealing with oxidation issues, but in the event you have to have connectors, products like this are perfect for protecting the exposed metal.
Paul
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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