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1252 Blue Focus Probem

 
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davebot



Joined: 26 Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Wisconsin

TV/Projector: Barco 808

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: 1252 Blue Focus Probem

Hello all,
I am having a problem focusing my blue tube on my Sony 1252q. I have a feeling that it is something in the settings and not physical setup, but I could be wrong.

Here is the green test pattern...


Here is the blue. I didn't move the camera between shots.


Adjusting the focus on the lens only makes it worse.

Any ideas what is going on? I have been looking around for away to set all the settings back to the factory defaults but I was unable find anything. Does anyone know how to do that?

Thanks for the help!
-Dave
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:28 pm    Post subject:

Have you played with the electronic focus controls? The blue one is recessed and usually has a sticker over it that says "do not touch" or something along those lines. Usually, you don't want to mess with it, as it should be slightly defocused and if not, will make greyscale difficult (or impossible), but obviously it shouldn't look like your photo.



SC
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davebot



Joined: 26 Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Wisconsin

TV/Projector: Barco 808

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 4:42 pm    Post subject:

I played with that a little bit, but there wasn't a huge improvement.
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greg_mitch



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 5320


Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:31 pm    Post subject:

What does it look like on the tube face when the pattern is displayed with the lens off?

How about a screen shot of some material? Is it annoyingly noticeable during movies?
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davebot



Joined: 26 Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Wisconsin

TV/Projector: Barco 808

Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 5:59 pm    Post subject:

If I look in to the tube, it looks about the same. All the "H"'s have a halo on them. I'll take some pictures of that tonight.

Here are some screen shots... I really need to do a grey scale calibration on this.

Red is a bit off.


Blue is off. Nothing is really sharp. Text is very hard to read.


Blue "Fuzz"...

Thanks for the help!
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greg_mitch



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 5320


Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 6:36 pm    Post subject:

What resolution are you using? I thought it was set up for 1080i already.

What is your screen size? Did you adjust the lens flapping accordingly?

I would look for a screen that is more uniform instead of a sheet or at least secure the sheet in all four corners to make a solid plane so that the focus distance is equivalent to the entire screen surface.
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imprez25



Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 70


Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:16 pm    Post subject:

If I remember right, the blue is very touchy when it comes to electronic focus. A little ajustment on the knob will make a major change on the screen. It has taken me a while to get blue dialed in on my 1251q, and it's still out a little more than I would like, but it's livable.

This is my method for focusing:

You first need to get the center optical focus as close to "right" as possible. If your optical is out and you try to adjust the electronics you will be chasing focus forever. You can do this by getting the phosphor "grain" to show on the screen. By using this method your electronic focus becomes a non issue. If proper optical focus is acheived the crt's phospher grain will always show through regardless of how the electronics are adjusted. For this you will need to display a "white" feild and have only the tube you are working on turned on. Using just the center focus ring adjust the lense until you can see the phosphor grain. Once you can see the inherent grain of the phosphor on the screen you will know that the optical focus is correct, and can then move on to adjusting the electronic focus. You may need binoculars, another person, or you may have to get up close to the screen inorder to see the grain, but trust me it is there. Smile

Blue is the most difficult to focus and should be left a little electronicly defocused (though on these 12xx's that typically isn't to hard to do). With the optical focus set, you can now display the internal H patern with no signal going to the projector. This is when you use the electronic focus controls using only small twists. Again small adjustment to the pots will make major changes to the focus on the screen. Continue until you get the H's as clear as possible, (with blue they will typically always remain a little out of focus on these projectors). You again may need binoculars, another person, or continious trips to the screen to get this correct.

Once the H's are as clear as possible you can then move back to optical with the H pattern. Make minor adjustments until the dashes are visable on the H's (this may not be possible on your projector, so simply make the h's as sharp as possible optically)

You may have to move back and forth between the electronic and the optical adjustments until it is dialed in perfect, each time making smaller and smaller adjustments. Once the center is dialed in you can then move to the outer focus, which should be done quite quickly once the center is set, but again you might need to make minor adjustments to the center in order to balance out the edges.

This is my method for focusing my 1251q and it has worked quite well, but your milage may vary.
Good luck! Smile
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tommo2



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Ireland

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 3:29 am    Post subject:

imprez25 wrote:

You may have to move back and forth between the electronic and the optical adjustments until it is dialed in perfect, each time making smaller and smaller adjustments.


Nope... Once electronic focus is set, leave it alone. Adjusting optical focus does not affect electronic focus.

You may have been referring to switching between centre and outer optical focus.

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Vibe



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 164
Location: SoCal

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 4:08 am    Post subject:

Maybe the coil on the blue is not snug to the bell of the the tube. Loosen the coil and get it as snug to the bell of the tube as possible. It may be hard to move at first but keep twisting and it will move. Make sure you get the picture on the tube face lined up correctly after though as twisting the coil "tilts" the picture on the tube face.

Could this also be an astig issue?
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 4:36 am    Post subject:

Clean the back of the blue lens. It's dirty and causing halo's.

Do NOT use windex!

Here's the link to the proper cleaning fluid:
http://www.curtpalme.com/Lens_Cleaning.shtm

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davebot



Joined: 26 Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Wisconsin

TV/Projector: Barco 808

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:49 pm    Post subject:

greg_mitch, I am running it at 720p. My old screen actually was a plastic picnic table cloth. Major thanks to AKAJester for the new screen! I don't recommend using a table cloth as a screen...

Ok, I removed the lenses and wiped everything down. Then I switched the lens flapping to Large setting which really improved the image sharpness!

I was able to clear up the blue a bit. I tweaked the electric focus a little and then I went in to the settings and took everything to 128, then remade my adjustments. The blue gain was really high. When I backed it down the halo effect was less noticeable. Its not %100 there yet but its close.


It still needs a gray scale adjustment, but its getting better. Thumbs Up

Thanks for the help!
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 4:50 pm    Post subject:

All answers above are correct, but if you see a slight dip in brightness as you adjust focus, that dip is the best electronic focus possible. Once it's set, leave it alone. As Analog says, clean the front of the tube face along with the back of the lens. The HV supply is right next to teh blue tube, and the air gap between the lens and tube attracts dust like crazy, causing halos and poor focus.

If you've cleaned that, and it's still as bad as your image, then the tube is worn, and nothing short of replacement will get you better focus.
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greg_mitch



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 5320


Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:02 pm    Post subject:

Try 1080i...I always found 1080i a bit sharper on that set. I never have used 720p on either CRT setup.
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:16 pm    Post subject:

tommo2 wrote:
Nope... Once electronic focus is set, leave it alone. Adjusting optical focus does not affect electronic focus.

No, electronic focus doesn't "affect" optical focus, but it's hard to get one right if the other is screwed up. By the same token, you can usually improve electronic focus after optical focus is tweaked and vice-versa. I never found the HD-8's on my 12xx's worth a damn with regard to being able to focus phosphor grain, so I focused on test patterns, dots or H's. I usually went back and forth a couple of times between electronic focus and optical focus to optimize both.

I also agree with Greg - I much preferred 1080i on my 12xx's for program material like HD DVD or BD... The one caveat being that Windows icon text and UI elements are pretty tough to read even on a well set up 12xx... So a lower-res like 720p does help a little, if you'll be using the standard Windows interface much. A front-end like MCE or TheaterTek would help there, though.

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tommo2



Joined: 03 Jun 2006
Posts: 226
Location: Ireland

Posted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:01 am    Post subject:

ecrabb wrote:
tommo2 wrote:
Nope... Once electronic focus is set, leave it alone. Adjusting optical focus does not affect electronic focus.

No, electronic focus doesn't "affect" optical focus, but it's hard to get one right if the other is screwed up. By the same token, you can usually improve electronic focus after optical focus is tweaked and vice-versa.



Yeah, quite right.
Its just the way you presented it, saying do the phosphor grain technique to get optical focus correct first, then set the electronic focus, then go back to electronic.

If you use the phosphor grain technique to give perfect optical focus, even only at screen centre, then you can be certain your optical focus is spot on at that point, even if electronic is way off. You can then set electronic focus and leave it alone. You then concentrate on getting optical correct for the whole screen.

Once this is done, you should leave electronic alone.

If, however, you do not use the phosphor grain technique, then you may have to go between the 2 , because you are never sure your optical focus is correct until electronic is set, and vice versa. You are relying on the image on screen to see when it is best.

I know you are aware of this, it was just a bit misleading the way you presented it. And I am only pointing it out so others are not mislead.
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_________________
pull up the handbrake and walk away

Barco Data 701s
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Xbox 360
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Denon AVR 1507 7.1 AV receiver
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Wharfedale SW150 active subwoofer

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imprez25



Joined: 01 May 2007
Posts: 70


Posted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:23 pm    Post subject:

tommo2 wrote:

I know you are aware of this, it was just a bit misleading the way you presented it. And I am only pointing it out so others are not mislead.
Thumbs Up


Actually, I presented it. Very Happy I agree with what you are saying in theory, and my point was not meant to be misleading. As ecrabb stated, switching between the two has helped me dial the focus in, even after having set the optical with the grain techique. The grain is sometimes difficult to see, especially on the blue tube, so using a test source such as the H pattern will help give you a better idea of how well you are truely focused. Sometimes this process requires me to mov back and forth between the two a couple of times before I can't see a difference.

Again, this is my techique, it works for me, so take it as you please. Mr. Green
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