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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu May 07, 2009 11:26 pm Post subject: Marquee face plate separation from LC housing, how to? |
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Hi guys, I need to remove the face plate from a 9 inch LC housing so they can be anodized. I removed the screw's but the RTV holding them together is on there pretty good, i dont want to try to chisle them off as the aluminum is fragile.
I could leave them on but am afraid the screw holes will not fit the screw right after the process. Also it would probably cost more or during the process the two parts could separate unless I leave the allen screws in that hold the two together. Would that bond the screws to the holes? Or if After I try to remove them would the anodization chip off?
And any of you guys do that type of work, id rather give a CRT guy the business.
Athanasios
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Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3353
Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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| Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Instead of going through all the trouble couldn't you just paint the part with epoxy based paint and be done with it?
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Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Mr. Green
Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 1394
Location: Calgary
TV/Projector: Marquee 9501LC / NEC 9PG+
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| Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 12:38 am Post subject: |
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Just out of curiousity, why are you doing this?
Can you use paint thinners to separate the glue from the aluminum (the real stuff in the metal container)?
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You can be young only once but, you can be immature forever.
Current Projector Marquee9501LC with PS3 (BLu-Ray) at 1080P LOVE IT! Screen is an Elunevision 120" 4:3 (2.4 gain - no hotspots). (also own a NEC 9PG+)
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:41 am Post subject: |
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Chip. I dont trust the Epoxy based paint. If i have to remove the tube after all the trouble to install it cause the epoxy paint starts to melt or mix with the glycol
it would suck. And if the Anodization didn't hold up i dont think the paint will.
Mr. Green, I'll try the paint thinners , not sure if it will seep into the rtv, the two pieces are very tight.
And I need to do it because parts of the original anodizing has come off and it is now bare aluminum, Glycol eats at it and you get floaties and fungus easier.
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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Mr. Green
Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 1394
Location: Calgary
TV/Projector: Marquee 9501LC / NEC 9PG+
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| Posted: Fri May 08, 2009 4:55 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Chip. I dont trust the Epoxy based paint. If i have to remove the tube after all the trouble to install it cause the epoxy paint starts to melt or mix with the glycol
it would suck. And if the Anodization didn't hold up i dont think the paint will.
Mr. Green, I'll try the paint thinners , not sure if it will seep into the rtv, the two pieces are very tight.
And I need to do it because parts of the original anodizing has come off and it is now bare aluminum, Glycol eats at it and you get floaties and fungus easier.
Athanasios |
I'm not sure it will work either, but "the good stuff" will usually dissolve most adhesives. I think the last time I used it on silicone it became soft, but I was able to cut it much easier. I haven't tried what you are doing though, so be careful.
_________________
You can be young only once but, you can be immature forever.
Current Projector Marquee9501LC with PS3 (BLu-Ray) at 1080P LOVE IT! Screen is an Elunevision 120" 4:3 (2.4 gain - no hotspots). (also own a NEC 9PG+)
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phishin_ca
Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 64
Location: Salisbury, MD
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| Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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You could also just put bolts into all of the holes before you have it done. This will prevent them from getting filled. They definitely will not "stick" I wouldn't worry about them flaking when you remove the screws, but the surface may fillet around them.
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bbfarmht
Joined: 27 May 2006
Posts: 1273
Location: Where the Mississippi runs east to west!!
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| Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Instead of putting regular bolts in the holes, which would also get anodized. You could find nylon bolts. They would probably seal better and not get any anodizing in the threads.
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Adam
"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both"
Benjamin Franklin
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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| phishin_ca wrote: | | You could also just put bolts into all of the holes before you have it done. This will prevent them from getting filled. They definitely will not "stick" I wouldn't worry about them flaking when you remove the screws, but the surface may fillet around them. |
I was thinking this as well. I am more concerned if the two pars separate , however i could leave the 4 large allen screws
in and then hope once i put the tube in the anodizing process did not loosen the RTV between the two parts. But if the RTV I will use to mount the tube glass to the newly anodized face plate is put on well, i wont need to worry about any glycol getting past that glass to faceplate seal.
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Sun May 10, 2009 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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The anodizer has rubber plugs for threaded holes. They do it all the time. The guys I use charge something like 20 cents per hole.
Type II anodizing is not as durable as Type III, but it is less expensive. I would have it done with Type III.
That's what is used for saltwater exposure and environments similar to that.
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