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Rdean
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 258
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:28 pm Post subject: Marquee - Uneven brightness when ramp contrast |
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I finally have a day off to play with my Marquee. When I ramp the contrast or brightness level my picture varies in brightness at different places on the screen.
In other words at 25 contrast it may be bright at the top, dimmer in the middle and bright at the bottom. When I get to 35 it is bright in the middle bit dimmer at top and bottom. Similar variances as I continue to ramp up or down.
This is blue and green only. Red stays solid throughout the whole range.
Any ideas on how this happends?
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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utilities menu, Service, pass-code 0901, color temperature, Adjust zones. Set them all at 50 and if you like you can bump the 4 corners up to 60 for uniformity.
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Rdean
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 258
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks.
About color temp: I set drive & G2 according to Guy's setup manual (well allmost).
Red D 90 G2 73 (2nd IRE just showing)
Green D90 G2 60
Blue D 50 G2 60
Each G2 set roughly to where 2nd IRE just shows. Drive is a little harder to inuitively set.
Whith contrast @ 50 a white screen is white. Ramp contrast below 50 and the screen gets progressively more pink.
At 50 contrast the middle bars are brownish pink, while the brightest ones are white.
Do I have too much red drive?
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mp20748
Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5689
Location: Maryland
TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Rdean wrote: | Thanks.
About color temp: I set drive & G2 according to Guy's setup manual (well allmost).
Red D 90 G2 73 (2nd IRE just showing)
Green D90 G2 60
Blue D 50 G2 60
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I don't usually get into the numbers, but the red looks off, but again, you're following a setup (Guy's) I'm not familiar with.
The problem you've described is most likely one or more of your neck boards being defective.
You should swap the neck boards around until you find which one has the problem. And while you're at it. Look at the two large resistors on each board and see if they show over-heating or burnt PC board/solder connection.
If that's visable, you should replace all three neck boards.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Apr 02, 2009 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Rdean wrote: | Thanks.
About color temp: I set drive & G2 according to Guy's setup manual (well allmost).
Red D 90 G2 73 (2nd IRE just showing)
Green D90 G2 60
Blue D 50 G2 60
Each G2 set roughly to where 2nd IRE just shows. Drive is a little harder to inuitively set.
Whith contrast @ 50 a white screen is white. Ramp contrast below 50 and the screen gets progressively more pink.
At 50 contrast the middle bars are brownish pink, while the brightest ones are white.
Do I have too much red drive? |
those setting are not for a Marquee you need to use Tims guide.
http://www.etechvideo.com/techtip1.htm
Aslo I highly suggest getting a eye one Display LT probe and use HCFR or buy Calman
to do your color, big big improvem,ent than doing it by eye only.
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:10 am Post subject: |
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the Drive settings is the tubes maximum output. I've never seen a MArquee that required a Drive above 30. When it gets to the red drive portion, push the # key and bring up an all white field, ramp red drive up or down until the screen is as white as possible, not pushing blue or red. If the tubes are worn, Red drive might wind up in the low 20's.
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Rdean
Joined: 13 Oct 2006
Posts: 258
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| Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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The red drive did end up being in the 20s. That was a mis type.
After around 4 hours of playing around things started to come together. Magnets were all off.
I finally got it all going. Its wierd how interconnected everything is. I can't say for sure when I noticed the brownish red middle IREs turn grey, but it did at some point. It was my first time playing with magnets. I think it finally turned out pretty good.
Then I turned it off and proceeded to put back all of the covers. When I fired it back up it had erratic width pulses and red convergence was jacked up (I could have bumped the focus coil a little when I was reinstalling the tube cover). I cursed it and had thoughts of going digital. I calmed down, reconverged and by the time I was done I didn't see any erratic width.
So I 'm hoping it will remain stable. Looks great although I still have some tweaking to do.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Yes magnetics do play a lot into the proper color calibration. especially the CPC magnets. CPC actually stands for Color Purity Control i believe. if the spot shape is not focused and perfectly round it will affect color output from that tube. Just like defocusing the blue will get rid of the blue hump.
Glad you got it closer.
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Rdean wrote: | | I could have bumped the focus coil a little when I was reinstalling the tube cover. |
When doind the focus coil ratser centering loosen 2 of the 3 brass wing nuts entirely (make sure you don't spin them off completely and have them fall into the chassis). the 3rd nut ,usually the top most one I leave snug but not tight, justy enough to allow the coil to scoot around. Adjust the coil and tigten this nut only lightly while going back and forth with CPC's. When everything is in agreement, tighten down all 3 wing nuts and they will be solid. You can't really bump them out of position at that point.
It can be frustrating but belive it not you will get to the point where you can fly through the magnetics adjustment, adjusting things almost by instinct and and then it beomes fun.
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