CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

I just changed the tubes in my Sony 1001 QM, had to swap the anode caps as well cause the replacement tubes had different leads and connectors, and although everything works perfectly fine, it now makes a static buzzing noise.

Im not sure where exactly its coming from, but it seems as though its coming from the HV block, when i was removing the blue HV lead from the block the rubber boot split, its still on there, but it does have a split up the side of the boot. Would that be the probable source of the buzzing sound or is there something else i may have missed?

Switching the switches on the convergence board to turn the colours off does nothing for the buzzing sound, neither does turning the G2 settings (i havent set that properly yet, i turned it down a fair way before first start up with the newer tubes cause the old ones are very worn and these settings were a fair way up).

Thanks in advance people Thumbs Up

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

it's a high voltage leak. If the machine is running, Pop the plastic top and turn the room lights out. You should be able to see the Blue arcing. Whatever you do keep your hands well away from the metal chassis.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Thanks mate Wink

Ill check it out when i get home in the afternoon and let you know where exactly it was, just on my way out the door for work.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

I pulled the 3 HV leads back off, i replaced the split boot with a boot from a spark plug lead, i put extra plastic sleeving on the leads, then i put some fibreglass insulation sleeve over that, and its arcing like a barstard. I turned off the lights to see if i could see the arcing, and its arcing to the deflector yokes on the blue and green tubes. What on earth do i have to do to stop this arcing?

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:18 am Post subject:

Where exactly is it arcing from?

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

The HV leads to the deflector yokes

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

I wouldnt have ever thought it could arc through its jacket, then through the plastic sleeve, then through fibreglass braided sleeve as well, and yet the lead shows no signs of it. If i look in there, i can see a constant arc from the HV leads to the blue and green yokes.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:40 am Post subject:

Then it's time for new leads. OR you'll need to seach out the pin hole leaks and try coating liberaly with silicone.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

sh*t mate if id have known they would fail during a tube change i couldve ordered some at the same time!! The leads on the 07MS tubes i got were not quite the same as the original Sony leads, not much different, but different enough for me to think if i was to push them into the HV block, they wouldnt come back out without tearing the ends off them.

You're a cars man like me, do you think if i sleeve these leads with some heater hose that may insulate enough or do you think its pointless and not worth the effort? Ive stopped many an arcing spark plug lead on a few Corvettes with this fibreglass sleeve, but this aint enough to hold back the power of the HV leads!!

Thanks for your input Jeremy Wink

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Ill answer that question for you all, i tried sleeving one lead with some double layer nylon reinforced rubber hose, and it leaked through that too. Not anywhere near as much, but it still did. From the same places.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

So what about 5 layers of heat shrink?

I went to the electrical wholesaler yesterday afternoon after work and picked up some good quality heat shrink in 3 different sizes, 1 yard lengths, so i should be able to coat each lead in this high class stuff with plenty to spare. I read the tech article about splicing the leads, so ive come to thinking that if 5 layers of heat shrink will not allow arcing from bare wire, 5 layers over the original coating should stop arcing too id hope.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:25 pm Post subject:

Buy the time you exhaust your options you could have spent the same money on replacement leads. Laughing

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Yeah but mate its the principal!! So far ive spent a grand total of $9.90 AUD, thats about $6 USD, so if it works, ill come out pretty light!! If it does work, it saves Curt the hassle of digging through his stash to find the right leads for me when he probably has far better things to do with his time, but if it comes down to that option, well it does doesnt it Wink

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:04 am Post subject:

Pretty much. My Ampro 4000 had a spectacular leak from the green HV lead. I had about a 2 inch arc. I tried covering it with 3/4" silicone matting. IT...ARCED....AROUND...THE....MAT!

It was like a plasma globe with out the globe. Really f'ked up the HV power supply though.

CasetheCorvetteman · Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 6326 Location: Australia

Just incase anyone was wondering, it didnt work. I dont think its just the leads though, seems to be a zap coming from one of the black transformers to one of its screws. Also the 2 leads that go from these 2 transformers to the HV block are arcing, and 2 out of 3 of the anode leads are too.