CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

I bought this projector from Phil in 2001 and have been quite pleased. Dave Harper has been down here twice over the last 7 years to calibrate the pj. In the last year I have noticed that every time I turn on the pj, the red tube has drifted so that white lettering has a slight red shadow. I can use the guided convergence on the remote to converge the red back over the green and make it watchable again, but I find myself having to do this every time I reboot the beast. The blue seems quite stable and doesn't require a reset. I am quite at a loss as to how to reset the red and have it stable for a longer period. Any advice appreciated.

Tom.W · Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6635

Are you giving the projector a 30 minute or so warm up period before adjusting the convergence ?

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

Check you PM i sent.

Athanasios

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

if it's consistently drifting in the same direction every time then it's likely a damaged convergence yoke that happened during re-tubing. It doesn't take much, simply pulling the coil off the original tube and having it catch on a piece of the white cloth tape is enough to knock part of the winding out of position.

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

(Dope slap upon forehead) No, I'm not letting it warm up before converging. When I fire it up, the red drift is so noticable, I silently weep, then converge it, with no warm up. I remember, now you've reminded me, that warm up = good idea.
I've never had it retubed, as I don't watch all that much in the theater room, just weekends for a few hours. It had been run some before I bought it from Phil at TAW, I believe.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

15 to 20 minutes is all it should take for the convergence to come in. If it keeps dirfting then bump this post back up.

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

I've experimented with the convergence now for a week. I allowed 20-30 minutes for warm up and then did a convergence. I still get the red drift (and not blue), but I noticed that it is now primarily in the center of the screen, with the edges needing no adjustment. But the center of the picture is drifted too far to be watchable without doing another convergence of the center section prior to viewing. Please advise.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

well here's a couple of things I would look for
1) high hours, check the Utilites menu, service- pass-code 0901 , and then hours. If the hours are super low or really high then the capacitors could be dried out on the Convergence board
2) The stainless steel clips on the rear heat sinks, there should be 3 holding the Converegnce Amplifier (CVA) in place.
You could also try having the CVA upgraded. the Marquee's are actually very stable in this regard but their age is a factor now at 10 years average. I have found that putting in higher quality capacitors and resistors really brings the convergence performance back to where it should be.

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

1)" high hours, check the Utilites menu, service- pass-code 0901 , and then hours. If the hours are super low or really high then the capacitors could be dried out on the Convergence board "
--When accessing the utility menu, entering the 0901 passcode, there is no option for "hours" visible on the menu--

2."Center convergence, a.k.a. static convergence correction, is provided through the horizontal deflection board for side-side alignment, and through the vertical deflection board for up-down correction, so which direction is the drift occurring?"
--the red-drift seems to be primarily vertical--

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

If it "seams" to be going vertical then id say what Draganm said the CVA caps and resistors and possible do the same on the VDM just to be safe.

If for SURE its going in the up or down direction then Id say it definitely is the VDM like Tim is suggesting by asking that question, in which case it could be any of the op amps or mosfets/transistors on it, in which case id send it to Curt or Tim to fix.

Athanasios

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

"If it "seams" to be going vertical then id say what Draganm said the CVA caps and resistors and possible do the same on the VDM just to be safe.

If for SURE its going in the up or down direction then Id say it definitely is the VDM like Tim is suggesting by asking that question, in which case it could be any of the op amps or mosfets/transistors on it, in which case id send it to Curt or Tim to fix.
--Just checked again today. The major drift is vertical, but there is a slight horizontal component, about 1/5th that of the vertical error

" high hours, check the Utilites menu, service- pass-code 0901 , and then hours. If the hours are super low or really high then the capacitors could be dried out on the Convergence board "
--When accessing the utility menu, entering the 0901 passcode, following your directions = 2990 hrs of use--

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4409 Location: Phoenix

Hello

Another possibility is that the magnetics are poorly aligned. Push CONV, 1, 1 and if red is not positioned near green then the red magnetics may need attention.

.

1031 · Joined: 22 Mar 2006 Posts: 657 Location: Finland

i´m also with Tim. If whole raster moves, then it has to be HDM or badly centered raster. So if raster is centered wrongly with focus yoke then electronic raster centering circuit (in HDM) has to do more "job" by pushing more current to deflection yoke. Usually those circuits are not 100% stable when there is heavy corrections made, and then circuits also needs more time to get stable.
you can test if electronic raster shift is "off center" by pushing conv->guided->enter->then use arrow keys to move red raster up and down. There should be same amout of movement, also same for left/right. If raster move Ie. 4" up and 6" down that means "mechanical" raster centering is wrongly set, and there is then more "electric" correction.

Edit: also if deflection yoke is not pushed against tube tight enougt (should be glued) can do whole raster shifting.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

6pence · Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 20 Location: Denver, NC

I'll try to attach my photo attempts to see if you can tell what's wrong
Photos are:

Nashou66 · Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY

We need a pic of all the grids up after a complete re initialization, this will erase all you memories but it will allow us to see what's up with your magnetic set up.
if the static magnetic set up is done right then the grids in the horizontal plane should all line up close to the same horizon. the verticals might not be as well lined up, but this ca be all adjusted through the on screen guide, now thinking about it also the up and down placement too. But the re initialization will tell us if the grids are level at least, if they are not on top of each other you can go into the guided mechanical set up and start all over. for your set up. to re initialize its done in the service menu, not sure where. But since the red doesn't move the same up or down I think it might be a set up issue finally taking its toll on the electronics. If the red grid was not at the same horizon level as the other colors form the start then over time the reds convergence and Vertical scan had to work harder to keep it in line. this would then be fixed by the proper set up, if it still persists then you need the CVA and VDM recapped most likely like Dragnm suggested.

Athanasios