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RVonse
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 3152
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:55 pm Post subject: Need soldering advice on how to proceed with a big IC chip |
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I am having a real bad time trying to change out a 200 pin IC in my laptop and was wondering how you guys are able to do it. The pins themselves do not actually go into the printed circuit board (which would seem to help) but are just soldered right onto the foil. The main difficulty I have is how to heat all the pins up at the same time? The chip is about 1" square and has around 50 pins on each side.
How do you pro's get these chips out without breaking them or messing up the printed circuit board?
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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Special desoldering tools...
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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If it's an Apple, I'd talk to Hammerhead Tech. They have $35K worth of robotic equipment to do it. Generally AFAIK, that's what you need. I personally would not attempt to do this myself.
Talk to Hammerhead anyways, they might be able to do it for you.
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lostmandan
Joined: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 146 Location: Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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I have done some limited rework of large chips, and would suggest the following:
Before touching the board with heat, take a few photos of any components that are nearby. I find that there are normally some SMT parts (resistors, caps) near these chips and I have found situations where they have come off when I get overzealous with solderwick
In terms of removal:
Low-melting point solder - I have some low melting point solder that is useful for removing chips because it stays liquid for a short time after the soldering iron is removed. The concept is to connect all of the pins with the solder and allow the chip to 'float' in it. When melted, the chip lifts right off the board. Gentle cleaning with solder wick cleans up the pads for the new device. The operative word is gentle because it is very easy to remove the PCB pads by scrubbing or applying too much heat.
Piano wire - I have also successfully removed chips with a length of very fine piano wire. The concept is to pass the wire behind all of the pins on a side of the package and then, starting on one end of the row, melt the solder on each pin and pull the wire under. This will normally 'spring' the pins enough that they are not making contact with the PCB pads. Once complete, the chip should come off of the board in short order.
Be very careful with the amount of heat applied. The chip may be defective/not worth keeping, but heat can easily delaminate the copper pads from the PCB. If this happens you may be in for a bit of a repair job, if the traces are on the outside of the chip (not underneath).
I hope this helps!
Cheers,
Dan
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RVonse
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 3152
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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That piano wire sounds like a neat idea Dan, thanks for sharing.
But where did you buy piano wire?
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lostmandan
Joined: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 146 Location: Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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No problem - I read about the technique on a post somewhere online myself.
*laughs* That is a really good question. I think it was something I had around in a box of 'junk'.
Guitar or violin strings would work too I think. The only tricky point would be to make sure the string was made of a metal that does not take solder easily. I am not sure what material the string I have is, but solder does not actually whet to it.
Around here there are a few music stores that sell strings, picks, bows, etc for instruments and I would try there first if I needed to find another string.
Also, I just took a look at the low melting point solder and I don't have a part number/brand on mine. It looks like zeph.com lists a bunch of that sort of thing though. It definitely is not cheap.
Cheers,
Dan
Last edited by lostmandan on Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Umm, a piano wire store? Duh!
It's not really different than a thin guitar string..
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lostmandan
Joined: 09 Jul 2008 Posts: 146 Location: Kitchener/Waterloo, Ontario, Canada
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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Also if at all possible, if you do this yourself, practice on something you don't care about. I have a reasonable success rate, but it didn't start out that way.
I find that patience and fairly steady hands will reward with this sort of detailed rework. If things aren't going properly, walk away for a few minutes and take a break.
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jkruger
Joined: 24 Oct 2007 Posts: 2435 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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I've used a safety pin or paperclip before.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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Are you trying to save the chip your removing or is it no good?
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JustGreg
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3098 Location: Kenosha, WI
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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I replaced bad memory on my Original Xbox 360 using a 60W soldering iron and desoldering wick. I have plastic tools from work and one is wedge shaped on the end. I lifted about 10 leads and then got the tool under it to keep some lift going on.
Then I thought to do this: If you don't care about the old IC, (which I didn't) cut all 200 leads off and deal with the stubs that are left. Then you can heat a select number (use a blunt wide tip on the iron) and solder wick, and just smear them into the center of where the chip used to be. (As long as there are no components underneath where it was of course). If there's nothing there to stick to you can just pick them up with a small piece of duct tape or the stickiest tape you can find. You don't want to blow them off. They'll end up everywhere (you don't want them).
Resoldering the replacement is what was mentioned earlier. Flow a crap load of solder across the leads...they'll look like you really frigged it up and connected them all, then use solder wick to remove the excess. When it cools, use a small pick to gently poke at the leads to see if they move. If you find any that move, obviously redo the blob solder method in that area.
<shrug> That method worked for me and I'm far from a Curt, MP, Athanasios, Nashou, etc.
_________________ Greg
"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
Last edited by JustGreg on Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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RVonse
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 3152
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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The closest I could come to piano wire was unwraveling an old coil off an old junk tv chassis I happen to have. It was really thin and somehow made it under the pins.
It worked perfect! The chip is now off and the board still looks in decent shape. Now the challenge is to get the new chip on it but I think I'll probably manage.
Thanks very much Dan, that wire idea worked out perfect!
Last edited by RVonse on Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:46 pm; edited 1 time in total
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:45 pm Post subject: Re: Need soldering advice on how to proceed with a big IC ch |
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| RVonse wrote: | I am having a real bad time trying to change out a 200 pin IC in my laptop and was wondering how you guys are able to do it. The pins themselves do not actually go into the printed circuit board (which would seem to help) but are just soldered right onto the foil. The main difficulty I have is how to heat all the pins up at the same time? The chip is about 1" square and has around 50 pins on each side.
How do you pro's get these chips out without breaking them or messing up the printed circuit board? |
Post a photo of the chip. I do chips like this all the time in my shop here. The best tool is usually a "hot air rework station" and you can get them for a reasonable sum these days when they used to be REALLY expensive.
I might be willing to do your chip if you post a photo.
craigr
_________________ JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
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Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting idea...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zclj4waulAQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Coozv2DdE
craigr
_________________ JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
Photo Research PR-650 Spectroradiometer
Klein K10-A Colorimeter
Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
Murideo Fresco SIX-A HDMI 2.x Analyzer
Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
Sencore CR7000 CRT Tube Analyzer / Rejuvenater
Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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| JustGreg wrote: | | I'm far from a Curt, MP, Athanasios, Nashou, etc. |
Thanks to this thread I need to buy an SMT desolderer now. Frankly, I've never played with stuff that had things like 200 pin chips that needed changing. The few SMT devices that have been bad here, I've either managed to get them off with a standard soldering iron in the case of a couple of 8 pin chips, or in the case of one Barco system board, I simply replaced it.
Seems in CRTs that things other than SMT chips fail, but hey, I'm always up for a new challenge. I have enough BArco convergence boards here to practice on..
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:10 pm Post subject: |
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_________________ JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
Photo Research PR-650 Spectroradiometer
Klein K10-A Colorimeter
Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
Murideo Fresco SIX-A HDMI 2.x Analyzer
Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
Sencore CR7000 CRT Tube Analyzer / Rejuvenater
Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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It's fun Curt I have this station and it has been great for several years now (eBay item number 120333948587).
I also purchased an extra heating element and many many many soldering tips when I bought mine. It is Chinese so I was concerned about the ability to get replacement parts in the future. I also got a vacuum IC popper that plugs into the unit and is fed from the pump to lift IC's with little force when they get hot enough.
craigr
_________________ JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
Photo Research PR-650 Spectroradiometer
Klein K10-A Colorimeter
Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
Murideo Fresco SIX-A HDMI 2.x Analyzer
Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
Sencore CR7000 CRT Tube Analyzer / Rejuvenater
Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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CIR Engineering
Joined: 25 Aug 2008 Posts: 4269 Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany
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| Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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This is pretty much the exact technique I use when I reattach an IC.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_cDV92IuWY
craigr
_________________ JETI 1501-HiRes 2nm Spectroradiometer
JETI 1211 Spectroradiometer
Photo Research PR-650 Spectroradiometer
Klein K10-A Colorimeter
Murideo Fresco SIX-G HDMI 2.x Multimedia Generator
Murideo Fresco SIX-A HDMI 2.x Analyzer
Light Illusion ColourSpace XPT Color Calibration Software
Light Illusion LightSpace XPT Pro Version 10.x Color Calibration Software
OMARDRIS JVC Software Patch to use K10-A and Jeti with JVC OEM AutoCal Software!
Sencore CR7000 CRT Tube Analyzer / Rejuvenater
Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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