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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:45 pm Post subject: LVPS Damaged? |
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Watched 2 movies on this 800hrs 9500lc ultra and now it won't switch on and the LVPS LED is on (and a oscillating clicking sound in the PJ).
Can this be repaired? Any ideas what might be the component(s) that died?
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Last edited by Arno P on Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:51 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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I took away the frontpanel of the LVPS/HVPS and of the LED's on the LVPS the second one on the right (PJ ceiling mounted) was blinking in the same frequency of the (relay)clicking (1sec interval)...
Anyone got an idea what error this LED is displaying?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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Disconnect/pull all modules. A short in the set can cause that. Remove the short, the set will fire up (probably without a picture though), and you'll have found the problem. It could be the LVPS as well though.
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Disconnect/pull all modules. A short in the set can cause that. Remove the short, the set will fire up (probably without a picture though), and you'll have found the problem. It could be the LVPS as well though. |
With only mains connected the LVPS seems to be ok...fans running...no LED's...when pushing the power button the second LED on the LVPS starts blinking...any idea to what area this LED is refering to?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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It's stamped below each LED...
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | It's stamped below each LED... |
The LED's on the backpanel of the pj do have this, but I mean the LED's on the LVPS
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 2:58 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, pull out the LVPS and look on the PC board below them. The voltage rails that each LEd represents is stamped on the board. That is pretty useless though, you're faster pulling/disconnecting boards.
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | | Yes, pull out the LVPS and look on the PC board below them. The voltage rails that each LEd represents is stamped on the board. That is pretty useless though, you're faster pulling/disconnecting boards. |
Ok, started with that,
VIM out, still the same
Focus board out, still the same
HDM out, still the same
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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CLM should stay in? Otherwise the power-on via remote will not work...right?
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jantje112
Joined: 17 Jul 2006
Posts: 328
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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The main reason I run a test chassis. The led system is pretty useless 
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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Convergence/BackPanel Boards disconnected: same result
(Feels like testing matches  ...every thing I remove is ok)
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
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Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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Neck boards...
Also, leaking glycol on the backplane can cause this too. Check for leaking tubes...
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | Neck boards...
Also, leaking glycol on the backplane can cause this too. Check for leaking tubes... |
 was just busy on the neckboards gimme a minute 
No leaking glycol here (so far )
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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Removed the side panels to get to the neckboard shields....Neckboards....enough to pull the big connector and the two thick wires to that metal strip?
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David_Web
Joined: 02 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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If I understand you right that should be -85V.
Flashing means short.
LVPS troubleshooting indicated VNB as the only thing using -85V.
Could this mean a G2(or is it G1?) short on one of the tubes?
The big connector should supply -85V on one of the utmost pins. (the other side would be +85V)
*edit* maybe pulling the HV lead to the tube tested is a good idea. You never know what could happen.
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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| David_Web wrote: | If I understand you right that should be -85V.
short on one of the tubes?
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don't say that....
I removed the Neckboards one by one and after each step I powered up the lvps again....with B/G removed still the same....with red removed....oversupply on responded to remote and no LED on the LVPS...
So......assemble again with RED as potential failure board....then switch board to Green and see if the problem remains (so it is the board....and if green is ok with the Red neckboard.....(then I might as well bought a new tube from VDC with the RED C in it  )
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Arno P
Joined: 01 Jan 2007
Posts: 282
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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OK,
I have put the green neckboard back on the green tube....LVPS is ok....
After that I removed the green neckboard and put the red neckboard on the green tube....lvps led started blinking again... ...so red tube is ok...right?
The red neckboard also looked somehow different....brown connector on it and the B/G have white...
Can the neckboard be repaired? ....or always get a new one?
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:27 pm Post subject: |
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It depends on what went bad on the VNB, if its one of those white transistors thatre screwd to the heat sink its preety much shot as those parts are hard to find and hard to replace if you do have one. Looks like you need a new VNB, the tubes should light up even if one neck board is not connected I think, Curt am I right? Or should he just disconect the balckk unbilical cord while the VNB is on the tube and try to fire it up?
Athanasios
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David_Web
Joined: 02 May 2007
Posts: 418
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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Red tube should be OK. Looks like it's the VNB.
Is should be possible to repair but I would not personally touch it due to vital components for spotkill on it. Curt would know for sure.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | It depends on what went bad on the VNB, if its one of those white transistors thatre screwd to the heat sink its preety much shot as those parts are hard to find and hard to replace if you do have one. Looks like you need a new VNB, the tubes should light up even if one neck board is not connected I think, Curt am I right? Or should he just disconect the balckk unbilical cord while the VNB is on the tube and try to fire it up?
Athanasios |
If the neckboard is faulty, you need to disconnect all wires on that neckboard, weather its attached to the tube or not, in order to see if the projector is other wise functioning properly.
Its only when the tube is the culprit that you just pull it off the tube.
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