CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

timf · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:06 pm Post subject: Speaker Gauge

How do you determine what gauge speaker wire to use when setting up your HT speakers?

Is thicker better or is there a rule of thumb to use depending on what type of speaker you are using?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:15 pm Post subject:

Generally speaking, 16 gauge is fine for any typical stereo/HT up to 50'. A lot of amps can't take larger wire than 16 gauge, so 14 gauge can actually end up with loose strands which can short out the amp.

I always use 16 gauge PVC jacketed stuff, I don'[t buy into the Monster crapola. THere's a couple of good 'is esoteric cable any good' threads over in the >$20K avs forum right now if you want a laugh.

timf · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:30 pm Post subject:

Thanks Curt, quick response as always mate Smile

I dont buy into the Monster debacle if I can help it but it is still good for a laugh when you do come across it.

I just bought a 50inch Pioneer Plasma last week and the sales guy tried his best to sell me a 2m Monster cable (latest and greatest apparently) for the insanely cheap pirce of.......$400 Aust dollars Shocked

He wasn't very happy when I couldn't stop laughing

Darren Wadsworth · Joined: 20 Mar 2006 Posts: 238 Location: Tacoma, Washington

This site has a chart showing the proper guage to use. I have personally verified this information with many other sites.

Maximum Wire Lengths For TWO CONDUCTOR Copper Wire

Darren

Phil Smith · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 7717

Good link! Link to wire gage table: http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#wiretable

timf · Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:57 pm Post subject:

Excellent! Thanks guys

perisoft · Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 2920 Location: Ithaca, NY

timf · Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:13 am Post subject:

It didn't really bother me, I know the guy was probably under instructions to promote the range as there were "Ask us about Monster" posters all over the place. I tend to negotiate pretty hard so the price of the TV was good enough that going elsewhere would have cost me more.

I think the uncontrolled laughter got my message across better than storming out Wink

Wombat · Joined: 18 Aug 2006 Posts: 16

I saw a PS3 hookup kit that had an HDMI cable plus Toslink cable for $7 at a local grocery superstore. Not Monster, though. Smile

I run 12 gauge to the front speakers and subs, 16 gauge lamp cord to the rear speakers. The 12 gauge was from Costco, but the plastic started out smelly and has gotten sticky with time and the conductors have discoloured. There must be something a little nicer that is more stable. Take a look at the bulk cable selection at Home Depot, or buy an extension cord and lop the ends off.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:21 am Post subject:

Funny, I googled it, and Blue Jeans came right up. This is exactly what you need, nothing more, nothing less:

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

Just get it in 16 gauge. No need for the Starquad stuff, although the jacket tends to be a bit more flexible than the straight PVC stuff.

Canare, belden and Mogami are all very good cables.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 4:29 am Post subject:

When I rewired my HT a few years ago and bought Paradigm Signature speakers I needed ~250 feet or more of speaker wire. So did lot of research into what speaker wires they use in higher end setups where reasonably expensive speakers are used and you need 50+ feet for each of the 5 runs. So what do a lot of the installers use? Home Depot CL2 in-wall rated 12 gauge wire. Dirt cheap.

I ended up bi-wiring all 5 speakers (so closer to 500 feet of wire) which resulted in taking the gauge down from 12 to around 8 or 9 which is even better.

Total cost for around 500-600 feet was around $250. They also make 14, 16, and 18 gauge in-wall rated speaker wire too.

Kal

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 5:15 am Post subject:

In Canada the laws for wiring is stricter than in the US from what I understand. Wood frame buildings need what's called FT4, plenum ceilings need FT6. The FT (flame test) ratings do not apply in the US, so I just heard of an installation that got rejected locally by an electrical inspector where the suppliers shipped up wiring from the US. That doesn't fly in Canada.. Smile

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 2:04 pm Post subject:

Any wiring that's installed behind walls/ceilings.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

ecrabb · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject:

Guys... In the US at least, you really have to specify whether you're talking about commercial or residential construction, and more specifically where the wire is going. There are different ratings and requirements for wire that's going behind a riser (wall) compared to wire that's going in a drop ceiling (plenum). For instance, wire that under no circumstances would be allowed above a drop ceiling in a commercial building might be fine in a residential wall. Codes vary by county, municipality and by state - though most are based mostly or in part on the NEC - the National Electrical Code (or ANSI/NFPA 70).

You don't want a wire above a drop ceiling in a commercial building - a space often used as the building's return air supply - that will give off really toxic fumes when it burns. You also don't want a wire in wall with a jacket that burns easily because it reduces the fire rating of the wall assembly. That's why you have cable designed and rated for just those situations. That's what "in-wall" rated cable is all about - fire spread and toxicity - and that's the CL2/CL3 ratings specify. It's all about how that jacket burns and what it gives off if it does.

There are also many more ratings than just CL2 and CL3 - and different (usually less stringent) standards for residential construction. Usually anything designed to commercial standards will also be fine for a residential application, although it may be more expensive than something that would only be suitable for a residential application.

Curt, I'd almost bet that the job you're talking about with the rejected wire, was not rejected because it was from the US "with lower standards", but more likely just because it was not rated for the specific commercial application. For instance, it may have been riser rated, but not plenum rated where it was actually going.

SC

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

There's no doubt that commercial regulations are much higher the residential. The issue of US wire versis Canada wire is just funny. We also have to take into consideration the knowledge of the inspector as to changes in cable markings: http://www.belden.com/pdfs/Techpprs/Cable_Flamability_Ratings.swf .

And we all know what I meant by kickbacks. Smile

faradayblue · Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:00 am Post subject:

I used twin runs of Canare 4s11 to bi-wire all the speakers in my HT setup. This cable can be purchased with connectors from several ebay sellers. Gets quotes from all of them for the best price. Canare cable is specified for frequency response, is cost effective and is widely used for pro-audio setups. Go to www.canare.com and follow the links to audio cable. I've attached the spec sheet for the Quad star cable.

perisoft · Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 2920 Location: Ithaca, NY

Specified for frequency response? Right.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:19 pm Post subject: