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16x9 84" diagonal??

 
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Bitwize



Joined: 09 May 2008
Posts: 83


Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 2:45 pm    Post subject: 16x9 84" diagonal??

howdy! can anyone point me to a website that sells 84" diagonal 16x9 screens? seems most sites have product that jumps from 77" to 92" in the 16x9 format. i really don't want to buy a 4:3 screen to accomplish this either. thanks!
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 3:22 pm    Post subject:

Carada has that size, but beware their gain specs are overly optimistic - especially the 1.4 material:
http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H084P

There are also plenty of companies that will cut custom any size right down to the 1/8 or 1/4 inch you specify in whatever Stewart, Da-Lite, etc. material you choose.

SC
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scottap



Joined: 27 Mar 2007
Posts: 177
Location: Palo Alto, CA

Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 4:01 pm    Post subject:

Elite sells that size as well. A number of online vendors carry them.
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:26 pm    Post subject:

ecrabb wrote:
Carada has that size, but beware their gain specs are overly optimistic - especially the 1.4 material:
http://www.carada.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=PROJECTION-SCREEN-H084P


You got that right! Their 1.4 gain material is almost a perfect 1.0 gain! Liars! Kind of like KB with his Goo. 1.8 gain my ass. It measures a perfect 1.0 gain also!

ecrabb wrote:
There are also plenty of companies that will cut custom any size right down to the 1/8 or 1/4 inch you specify in whatever Stewart, Da-Lite, etc. material you choose.


Another great option is Hurley which will do this.

They also sell their material at VERY reasonable prices. So reasonable, that I think I may stop recommending Wilsonart as the cheap option and start recommending them! Whereas you pay $85 for a sheet of wilsonart, you can get about the same size 1.0 gain material from them for only about $30 more. In many ways, it is much easier to work with than the laminate. You can also get true 1.5 or 1.8 gain material from them for less than $200! Build a frame, buy some velcro and velvet, and Bob's your uncle...awesome screen pretty cheap!

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Dave

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:34 pm    Post subject:

Dave, where did you see the measurements on these screens?

Do you know if the Hurley Superglo Flex (1.8 gain) has any trouble with "sparklies" ? I understand the Flex is recommended for stretching over a frame, vs. the supported Superglo (1.5 gain). I wonder if the Flex is going to hotspot, if it's a "true" 1.8 like you say.
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:
Dave, where did you see the measurements on these screens?


The measurements on the Hurley screens? They are made to order, you just tell them what you want.

garyfritz wrote:
Do you know if the Hurley Superglo Flex (1.8 gain) has any trouble with "sparklies" ? I understand the Flex is recommended for stretching over a frame, vs. the supported Superglo (1.5 gain). I wonder if the Flex is going to hotspot, if it's a "true" 1.8 like you say.


I wish I would have known you were interested when you were over, I have a Superglo Flex sample. I just loaned it to someone 5 days ago or I'd send it to you. You can contact Hurley and they will send you a sample.

It does need to be stretched, but you can just attach velcro (the acrylic adhesive kind) to it and stretch to a frame. Or, you can order it from them with a boarder and the H-Pad installed (which is a bit better than velcro). Most screen sizes this way cost less than $300.

Anyway, Hurley is the only manufacturer that impregnates the vinyl with pearlescent ink. Most put it on the top. They claim this means it will not hot spot. From my little 8x10 sample, I did not see hotspotting. In fact, it may have been even a little better than my 1.3 gain CinemaVision in this respect.

Walter (WTS) has a 1.5 gain superglo screen and swears up and down he never sees hotspotting.

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Dave

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 6:10 pm    Post subject:

Well, I meant the gain measurements, not the dimensions, but nevermind. Smile

Person99 wrote:
They also sell their material at VERY reasonable prices. So reasonable, that I think I may stop recommending Wilsonart as the cheap option and start recommending them! Whereas you pay $85 for a sheet of wilsonart, you can get about the same size 1.0 gain material from them for only about $30 more. In many ways, it is much easier to work with than the laminate. You can also get true 1.5 or 1.8 gain material from them for less than $200! Build a frame, buy some velcro and velvet, and Bob's your uncle...awesome screen pretty cheap!

FYI I just got a quote from them. A 48x85 Silverglo lace & grommet screen is $231 -- a bit more than I'd hoped, but not unreasonable. But then the shipping to Colorado is $175!! So all told it's $400. Not in the price range I was looking for, unfortunately. A 49x97 sheet of Wilsonart goes for $100 or so at your local HD, so I don't see Hurley as an equivalently viable "cheap option."
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 6:17 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:

FYI I just got a quote from them. A 48x85 Silverglo lace & grommet screen is $231 -- a bit more than I'd hoped, but not unreasonable.


Don't ask for a lace and grommet or any of that. You just want the raw material. Then get the velcro with the acrylic adhesive and make your own attachment system. If you do this, it will be cheaper than that.

Hurley will sell the products 3 ways:
1) Raw material -- just the vinyl cut to your size.
2) Screen material with mounts - the screen material with grommets, or h-pad or whatever. Basically, the finished screen without a frame.
3) A full screen -- basically number 2 with a frame.

The difference in price between #2 and #1 is usually $75-150.

Do that, and you'll see why I think they are roughly equivalent. MW-16 costs just a bit more than wilsonart (in the sizes I was looking for Hurley was $125 and wilsonart was $85) and is easier to work with for all but the most simple mounting methods (laminate with mirror clips).

Of course Silverglo or superglo will cost more than MW-16 or laminate--but show me how to get 1.8-2.3 gain out of laminate. Wink

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 6:18 pm    Post subject:

Also, make sure ask for non-perforated. Most of their business is commercial theaters, so they default to the material with the HUGE perforations in it!
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Dave

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:08 pm    Post subject:

Ah, OK. Not only is the unmounted material cheaper, but the guy realized he could send it UPS instead of via freight, which made a BIG difference. Lace&grommet $271, raw material $216. Still 2x more than DW but much more reasonable.

The raw quote is for 4" extra on all sides for stapling. Maybe that's more than I need. You think the velcro is a better answer than stretching & stapling, eh? You could adjust it as needed, but I haven't had to adjust my BOC screen after 4 years. Stapling is simpler.

If you use velcro, do you use a strip all along all 4 edges, or small patches at various points?
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jkruger



Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 2435
Location: Carlsbad, CA

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:18 pm    Post subject:

What do you build the frame out of? How do you keep it from bowing or twisting?
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:24 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:
Ah, OK. Not only is the unmounted material cheaper, but the guy realized he could send it UPS instead of via freight, which made a BIG difference. Lace&grommet $271, raw material $216. Still 2x more than DW but much more reasonable.


Yes, but you are not comparing apples to apples. The DW is <1.3 gain. The Hurley you got quoted is almost double the gain!!!!

Compare the MW-16 (true 1.0 gain) to DW (about 1.2 gain) which is a closer to apples to apples. Then the prices are much closer.

garyfritz wrote:
The raw quote is for 4" extra on all sides for stapling.


I'm looking at 2" extra on all sides. I'm going to attach from the front and cover with trim.

garyfritz wrote:
You think the velcro is a better answer than stretching & stapling, eh? You could adjust it as needed, but I haven't had to adjust my BOC screen after 4 years. Stapling is simpler.

If you use velcro, do you use a strip all along all 4 edges, or small patches at various points?


I've not done it yet, but I'm leaning that way. Many people with SmX and Seymour use the velcro with good results. You don't have to "get it right" on the first try and you can adjust it. I like that about it. Stapling is certainly more secure.

I will probably be ordering within the next week, so I'll be mounting it within a couple weekends, I'll let you know what I decided. Smile

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
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Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:26 pm    Post subject:

jkruger wrote:
What do you build the frame out of? How do you keep it from bowing or twisting?

I used 1x2" poplar -- it tends to be straight and doesn't warp easily. Use one or more crossbars to keep it from bowing at top/bottom from the screen tension. I didn't have any trouble with twisting, possibly because I stapled it right -- the order is important.

See http://www.eldamar.net/house/ht/screenHowTo.html for a good example of how to build a frame. I had a link that shows how to staple a screen (which would work for velcro too) but I can't find it now. Basically you start at top/bottom center, then left/right center, then work your way out from the center to the corners.
Person99 wrote:
I'm looking at 2" extra on all sides. I'm going to attach from the front and cover with trim.

I'd be concerned about front mounting with staples -- as tight as you stretch it, it might be visible. By wrapping it around to the back, you spread out the load. Maybe velcro works OK on the front.
Quote:
I will probably be ordering within the next week, so I'll be mounting it within a couple weekends, I'll let you know what I decided. Smile

Kewl! Let me know what you think. I won't have a chance to do it that soon so I'll benefit from your experience. Of course you'll be shining a flashlight on it so it won't be quite comparable to my CRT. Laughing


Last edited by garyfritz on Tue May 20, 2008 4:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:29 pm    Post subject:

That is a pretty good link. I used 1x3 poplar. Smile

Also, I'm doing a curved screen and everything I can find seems to suggest that these are stretched center out. Only do the edges when you get to them, so all tension is vertical.

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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 4:32 pm    Post subject:

You're too fast, Dave. I reply to jkrueger and you've posted since he did. So I edit my response to reply to you and you've already replied to me. Smile

Yes, if you're going to curve it, you'd have to do vertical tension. Although unless you don't do ANY side tension at all, aren't you likely to get some ripples along the sides? Maybe not if you're careful.

(Why curve it? I thought you were thinking about curving a screen for your Barco because it didn't have edge focus. Surely your digital projector focuses on a flat plane??)
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4899
Location: Flower Mound, TX

Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 6:28 pm    Post subject:

garyfritz wrote:

Yes, if you're going to curve it, you'd have to do vertical tension. Although unless you don't do ANY side tension at all, aren't you likely to get some ripples along the sides? Maybe not if you're careful.


Well, the sides are attached as I understand, but tensioned pretty much vertically then just attached horizontally.

garyfritz wrote:
(Why curve it? I thought you were thinking about curving a screen for your Barco because it didn't have edge focus. Surely your digital projector focuses on a flat plane??)


Anamorphic lenses introduce pincushion which can only be corrected by curved screens. That is why all screens in commercial theaters are curved. Scope movies in theaters use a 2.0x horizontal expansion lens. In the home, you use a 1.33x horizontal expansion lens.

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