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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Every time I read this thread lately I think "wow, imagine what could be done to the MArquee today if there was a serious effort to re-design some of the major parts like HDM, VIM, CLM, etc. I bet some of the boards would wind up with 30% fewer parts using newer technology and also getting rid of obsolete crap like the audio circuit on the VIM.
I know the economic side is a bust but it doesn't hurt to dream 
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | Every time I read this thread lately I think "wow, imagine what could be done to the MArquee today if there was a serious effort to re-design some of the major parts like HDM, VIM, CLM, etc. I bet some of the boards would wind up with 30% fewer parts using newer technology and also getting rid of obsolete crap like the audio circuit on the VIM.
I know the economic side is a bust but it doesn't hurt to dream |
The Marquee would end up almost as good as an Ampro ..... 
Of course as we see.... it takes an Ampro expert to try to resolve these Marquee quirks...... 
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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bought some uc3708n drivers from ebay at 3,20 usd per piece, took all 6 out of his hands.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | | draganm wrote: | Every time I read this thread lately I think "wow, imagine what could be done to the MArquee today if there was a serious effort to re-design some of the major parts like HDM, VIM, CLM, etc. I bet some of the boards would wind up with 30% fewer parts using newer technology and also getting rid of obsolete crap like the audio circuit on the VIM.
I know the economic side is a bust but it doesn't hurt to dream |
The Marquee would end up almost as good as an Ampro .....
Of course as we see.... it takes an Ampro expert to try to resolve these Marquee quirks...... |
why don`t you try to get the cree parts to work in the ampro.
i would love to have a 3600 or 4600 one day  .
they aren`t quirks, electrohome underspecced their parts for future changes .
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: |
why don`t you try to get the cree parts to work in the ampro.
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Don't need to. It's already a finely functioning machine. I can't remember the last time I heard of any of these boards failing and there is still quite a few Ampro owners out there, along with the military.... 
I wouldn't want to be an Ampro only repair tech. I would never have anything to do..........
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 7:08 pm Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: |
electrohome underspecced their parts for future changes . |
Hmmm, I have to think about this statement some more..... it sounds funny.....
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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i made a small voltage regulator with a lm317t to get 20volts.
so i get the 24volts from one side of r154 then through the lm317t then to the yellow wire of the yoke connector ON RED.
i have removed the gto devices.
scott, shall i short the connections where the mda1000a was or is it best to put a diode there (i have some sbyv27-200v diodes left).
the setup with this voltage regulator is temporary until i get those higher voltage mosfet drivers.
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:39 am Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | i made a small voltage regulator with a lm317t to get 20volts.
so i get the 24volts from one side of r154 then through the lm317t then to the yellow wire of the yoke connector ON RED.
i have removed the gto devices.
scott, shall i short the connections where the mda1000a was or is it best to put a diode there (i have some sbyv27-200v diodes left).
the setup with this voltage regulator is temporary until i get those higher voltage mosfet drivers. |
You need to short the gto and add a diode to clamp the drive so it swings from about -0.7V up to +19V or so. You need to do this with all three of mosfet drive circuits. The sbyv27 parts should work fine.
Scott
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:48 am Post subject: |
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| draganm wrote: | Every time I read this thread lately I think "wow, imagine what could be done to the MArquee today if there was a serious effort to re-design some of the major parts like HDM, VIM, CLM, etc. I bet some of the boards would wind up with 30% fewer parts using newer technology and also getting rid of obsolete crap like the audio circuit on the VIM.
I know the economic side is a bust but it doesn't hurt to dream |
You are right. Everything could be vastly improved except for the neck card. Nobody is making transistors for high voltage, high bandwidth video circuits anymore. Not much money to be made since CRTs went the way of the buggy whip.
Scott
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 1:25 am Post subject: |
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ok thanks scott, i added those diodes.
will try now with the 20volt supply to the drivers.
some pics .
and the fets,
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 2:53 am Post subject: |
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yeehaaaa it works, scott your support is priceless for me i cannot thank you enough.
the supply voltage at the mosfet driver is now 19.90volts with the lm317t, (just below its maximum rating) i will replace the driver when i get the parts i ordered.
now its time to put the heatsink back on  , ran it 10 seconds without heatsinking.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:24 am Post subject: |
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mmmhhh the heatsink still runs very hot, what could be the problem?
should r2-r3 and r8 go.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:24 am Post subject: |
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Great dennis!! So that yellow yoke wire, will that have to be put back into the Coil connector once you get the new drivers?
Also could you leave it as is and have no issues with reliability?
Hmm, feel the new voltage regulator and see how hot that is too. It might not be providing enough current? This might be a great place for those Belleson Super regulators.
Athanasios
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:33 am Post subject: |
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no that yellow yoke gets 15 volts when put back.
i need more voltage to drive the fets so it has to stay out of the circuit.
i am also afraid the mosfet driver that is on the board does a lousy job driving the cree fets causing them running too hot.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 3:38 am Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | no that yellow yoke gets 15 volts when put back.
Oh I see, so we need to feed that wire 20v .
i need more voltage to drive the fets so it has to stay out of the circuit.
So the yellow wire could go back in if wee find a way to get 20v's in that circuit ?
i am also afraid the mosfet driver that is on the board does a lousy job driving the cree fets causing them running too hot.
That could be it, or maybe those crees need more current, I did not look at the spec sheet closely.
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Athanasios
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:11 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Hmm, feel the new voltage regulator and see how hot that is too. It might not be providing enough current? This might be a great place for those Belleson Super regulators.
Athanasios |
he, if you are willing to send me some for testing .
i will gladly replace the lm317t with your bellesons!.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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another reason why the heatsink still gets hot might be becuase i cleaned it and used new heat transfer paste.
i removed r2-r3-r8 and used 6.8ohm as gate resistors.
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macgyver655
Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | another reason why the heatsink still gets hot might be becuase i cleaned it and used new heat transfer paste.
i removed r2-r3-r8 and used 6.8ohm as gate resistors. |
Or it gets hot because it is suppose to...... I mean,...... it is a heat sink...... right?
If it wasn't getting hot then the component would be.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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| macgyver655 wrote: | | dvh99 wrote: | another reason why the heatsink still gets hot might be becuase i cleaned it and used new heat transfer paste.
i removed r2-r3-r8 and used 6.8ohm as gate resistors. |
Or it gets hot because it is suppose to...... I mean,...... it is a heat sink...... right?
If it wasn't getting hot then the component would be. |
Macs right, lol.
After cleaning the rear heat sink and its Isolators and then applying heat sink compound
liberally , the heat sink got much hotter than before and there was less convergence drift. So sometimes a hotter heat sink AFTER cleaning and re application of the HS compound shows that it is doing it's job correctly .
Athanasios
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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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i thought that with the lower switching losses of the cree fets the heatsink wouldn`t run as hot as the apt parts.
still it gets too hot to touch, but who knows how hot it would have become if i just cleaned the heatsink and put new heat transfer paste on the fets that were in there.
the uc3708n drivers will be here shortly so the voltage can go up a bit.
maybe fine tuning those surrounding caps will help....
but for now they work just fine.
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