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1031
Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:16 am Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Ahh ok, I edited my post above. i did find the speeds.
I didn't mean noise , just the peak in the one scope pic. I re read the post and saw your explanation.
Doesn't the SD5401 switch in and out the menus and so-forth? It is also for side blanking?
Athanasios |
Yep. SD5401 does :blanking, video switching, black level clamp "sample switching" and onscreen switching.
On those scope shots you see highest bw in the midde of scopes screen, there is that one on/one off part, one video line is shown.
I had some problems with onscreens and blacklevel clamping with that dg612 board (that hadles all functions that sd5401 does) onscreens was unstable and smeared. Somehow that dg612 started those issues, i had to "put" some load after it (resistor to gnd) to tame those issues, at same time best sharpness was gone 
_________________
Marquee 9500LC (Frankenyokes / Thomas electric tubes / HD-10L / +many mod´s)
DVDO VP-50
New hobby, Rally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2Rtpr1njs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZP9FEFXV5c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j065vei6j6s
http://www.facebook.com/pages/JTS-Racing-team/204443719572685
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1031
Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland
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kaylee18
Joined: 22 Feb 2011
Posts: 17
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| Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:58 pm Post subject: |
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This thread is amazing. There's enough here to keep me occupied for hours.
I always wanted to see a trouleshooting thread of this quality... like... if this light comes on, check this. If this symptom occurs, do this...
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Nice Jarmo!!! Did you take the power for the fan from the two extra 24 volt fan pins on the back plane where the belly fans connect to or from somewhere else?
Hi Guys, Jarmo started a new post about the above fan mod, I am reposting it here for archive puroposes, Nice Work Jarmo!!
| 1031 wrote: | Ok. Here is latest mod. On this popular thread i posted little fan mod that has been great, it reduced greatly rear heatsink temp + internal temp. was lower also -> https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=9608.html
Only problem was that gonvergence took some time to stabilize, mostly because heatsink was cooled better from the startup..
I decided to design controller that starts fan at certain temperature and then tries to keep heatsink temperature steady.
It is based to NTC-resistor that is connected to "voltage divider"(Ntc+R4) and that voltage is feedet to OP-amp´s inverting input.
Noninverting input gets adjustable "reference voltage" from R2 trimmer, that trimmer sets temperature point where fan is started. R1 trimmer is there to adjust gain of corretion (temperature/voltage to fan) without it (infinity resistance) that acts much like comparator-> fan on or off
Output of OP-amp is connected to base of transistor Q1 via r3 (220ohm) transistor acts like current apm. rest of componencs are for filtering (c3,c1) R1 (2,2ohm) is there for filtering+ it acts like fuse also (fusible 0.5w) D1 is there for correct polarity (ie. connecting voltages reversed does not harm any components) And those optional trimmers are just for alternative type of trimmers for board.
Here is how it works:
Time / Temperature / voltage to fan/ does fan spinn
17.55 / 24 / 1,39 / No
18.00/ 25 / 1,39 / No
18.05/ 30 / 1,40 / No
18.10/ 34 / 2,35 / No
18.12/ 35 / 4,70 / No
18.13/ 36 / 5,90 / No
18.14/ 36,5 / 7,30 / Yes
18.15/ 37 / 7,75 / Yes
18.20/ 38 / 8.80 / Yes
18.25/ 38 / 8,82 /Yes
12.30/ 38 / 8,88 / Yes
18.40/ 39 / 8,97 / Yes
19.00/ 39 / 9,10 /Yes
I have external powersupply (12v) that runs some of fans (belly+ that extra rear heatsink fan) So i desingnet alterative version if someone wants to build version that operates from same voltage (24v) that marquees belly fans are feedet.
Here are scematics and board layout pictures
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v boar layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v board layout and components
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v scematic
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v board plus component layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v
And yes convergence is much more stable with this fan mod 
Edit: 24v versions addet (24v in to the controller,12 volt out (max)to fan |
Hope this helps everyone who wants to do this project.
Athanasios |
which fans were used?
does anyone have a order number, preferrably from farnell?
would a 1000ma external supply be sufficient for 2 fans?
thanks.
edit: anyone tried to use superglue to attach the fans to the heatsink?
dennis
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 4:18 pm Post subject: Re: CLM Power rail Mods Stage I |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | STAGE I CLM Mod
Ok now on the the Control Module or the CLM. I did the mods McPherve talked about in the
JeaHong_lee thread. Also Mike parker posted some pics of his mod to these rails
as well(he used larger values) and this is when I first attempted to do any upgrades
to my marquee component level wise. Back then I was a complete newbie and forgot to put the
caps on with the right polarity and I fried something I could not fix back then. 
On this next section i will not take pics of me doing the removal and of install as I think we all now
have a good feel of removing and installing parts.
I will show the locations on the non moded board and then the moded board. there are older versions
of CLM's(like the one I blew up) and I have not studied the schematics for them to name the parts
on those boards, so this is only for the newer boards as in the pics below. If i get time I may try to
mod an older CLM and post back here but some caps are the same and i'll mention those.
Mike parker did this mod to clean up noise the 5 and 15 Volt rails sent back into the rest of the projector
and he also found that after doing this focus sharpened up as well, I saw this also ,with just these mods.
These caps Decouple certain IC's on the board.
In the next section we will improve on this more by going after the caps right at the IC's.
Stock CLM with daughter boards removed:
Moded board
Ok first we will replace the four tants near the left connector pins, these are C1,C2,C6 and C113.
Four tantalums to be removed
We replace them with higher voltage value's and temp, Mike P also raised the cap values I have not on this
CLM but plan to on the stock one and compare the two. Since I do more mods that might not need the higher
values in these locations here.
EDIT: I originaly used a 47uf 40 V cap for C6 and C7 I have changed them
to 100uf 20v Oscons the previous cap was not an Oscon.So ignor the 47uf 40v caps
For C1 and C2 I used a 10uf 50v 105c low ESR cap, panasonic FC series. MP used 100uf.
For C6 I use an oscon 47uf 40v cap, sanyo made these.
For C113 I went with a 33uf 16v vishay tantalum, these are different than any tant I have seen before
smaller size but seem to work well, I ordered the smaller size by mistake ,the original
is a C size and I got the B size.
Now also here on the two pins that feed the + side of C2 and the - side of C1 we put 220uh inductors.
I use murata's as they were nice and small to fit in there. you need to lift or
cut(I lifted by desoldering from underneath) pins 27(-) and 28(+)
and solder the inductors from the lifted pin end to the hole of the removed
pin to complete the connection to the caps.
All caps and Inductors in place(one inductor is hiding under the other)
Also you can see the small orange 33uf Vishay tantalum
Next we will remove Tantalums C3,C7 and C43
Three tantalums to be romoved
C3 and C43 we replace with the same 33uf 16v tants
C7 decouples the same Ic's as C6(before) so we use the same 47uf 40v Oscon here.
Caps replaced, Oscon must lay down with longer leads to have daughter board fit over top
Next remove C12
Replace with another 33uf 16v tant
And last remove C145
Replace with same 33uf tant from before
Next time we'll replace a few IC's and more caps
Athanasios |
the murata inductors have a long and a shorter leg.
how are they put in?
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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1031
Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:54 am Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | | Nashou66 wrote: | Nice Jarmo!!! Did you take the power for the fan from the two extra 24 volt fan pins on the back plane where the belly fans connect to or from somewhere else?
Hi Guys, Jarmo started a new post about the above fan mod, I am reposting it here for archive puroposes, Nice Work Jarmo!!
| 1031 wrote: | Ok. Here is latest mod. On this popular thread i posted little fan mod that has been great, it reduced greatly rear heatsink temp + internal temp. was lower also -> https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=9608.html
Only problem was that gonvergence took some time to stabilize, mostly because heatsink was cooled better from the startup..
I decided to design controller that starts fan at certain temperature and then tries to keep heatsink temperature steady.
It is based to NTC-resistor that is connected to "voltage divider"(Ntc+R4) and that voltage is feedet to OP-amp´s inverting input.
Noninverting input gets adjustable "reference voltage" from R2 trimmer, that trimmer sets temperature point where fan is started. R1 trimmer is there to adjust gain of corretion (temperature/voltage to fan) without it (infinity resistance) that acts much like comparator-> fan on or off
Output of OP-amp is connected to base of transistor Q1 via r3 (220ohm) transistor acts like current apm. rest of componencs are for filtering (c3,c1) R1 (2,2ohm) is there for filtering+ it acts like fuse also (fusible 0.5w) D1 is there for correct polarity (ie. connecting voltages reversed does not harm any components) And those optional trimmers are just for alternative type of trimmers for board.
Here is how it works:
Time / Temperature / voltage to fan/ does fan spinn
17.55 / 24 / 1,39 / No
18.00/ 25 / 1,39 / No
18.05/ 30 / 1,40 / No
18.10/ 34 / 2,35 / No
18.12/ 35 / 4,70 / No
18.13/ 36 / 5,90 / No
18.14/ 36,5 / 7,30 / Yes
18.15/ 37 / 7,75 / Yes
18.20/ 38 / 8.80 / Yes
18.25/ 38 / 8,82 /Yes
12.30/ 38 / 8,88 / Yes
18.40/ 39 / 8,97 / Yes
19.00/ 39 / 9,10 /Yes
I have external powersupply (12v) that runs some of fans (belly+ that extra rear heatsink fan) So i desingnet alterative version if someone wants to build version that operates from same voltage (24v) that marquees belly fans are feedet.
Here are scematics and board layout pictures
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v boar layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v board layout and components
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 24v scematic
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v board plus component layout
1031 marquee rearheatsink fan controller 12v
And yes convergence is much more stable with this fan mod
Edit: 24v versions addet (24v in to the controller,12 volt out (max)to fan |
Hope this helps everyone who wants to do this project.
Athanasios |
which fans were used?
does anyone have a order number, preferrably from farnell?
would a 1000ma external supply be sufficient for 2 fans?
thanks.
edit: anyone tried to use superglue to attach the fans to the heatsink?
dennis |
Hello. that extra rearheatsink fan is not critical, go with silent model..
Anyway, after i did that MP´s "ground strap mod" between convergence amp-chassis ground, that rear heatsink fan has not spinned.. That ground strap mod lowered heatsink´s temperature so much that my fan mod became useless. Ok tere is possibility to adjust fan controll so that it starts spinning at lower temperature..
But i ´d say that go firts with MP´s ground strap mod and see if there is need for extra cooling.
_________________
Marquee 9500LC (Frankenyokes / Thomas electric tubes / HD-10L / +many mod´s)
DVDO VP-50
New hobby, Rally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vX2Rtpr1njs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZP9FEFXV5c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j065vei6j6s
http://www.facebook.com/pages/JTS-Racing-team/204443719572685
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Revox
Joined: 13 Feb 2008
Posts: 158
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:40 am Post subject: |
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I think the convergence drift must be less intensive, when you cool the heatsink better. The maximum temperature is reached in a shorter time.
I am thinking about a 3min delay starting the belly Fans.
In my opinion it is easyer to programm an Arduino, than build a new PCB.
Stefan
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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i added that groundstrap a long time ago, i won`t add the fans on the heatsink.
i will however change the fans of the lvps instead. (that is something i want to do for more then a year now)
nash i know they aren`t polar but they are wound in a certain direction, so maybe it makes a little difference how they are put in.
why would the manufacturer make them with different lengths of the legs if it doesn`t matter how they are put in?
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | i added that groundstrap a long time ago, i won`t add the fans on the heatsink.
i will however change the fans of the lvps instead. (that is something i want to do for more then a year now)
nash i know they aren`t polar but they are wound in a certain direction, so maybe it makes a little difference how they are put in.
why would the manufacturer make them with different lengths of the legs if it doesn`t matter how they are put in? |
Maybe they do that for certain circuit design but in our case I don't think it matters. Maybe Scott would have some insight on
this.
Athanasios
_________________
Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
One Smart Dog!!!
Marquee High Performance Bellows now shipping!!
Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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| 1031 wrote: | | Nashou66 wrote: | Ahh ok, I edited my post above. i did find the speeds.
I didn't mean noise , just the peak in the one scope pic. I re read the post and saw your explanation.
Doesn't the SD5401 switch in and out the menus and so-forth? It is also for side blanking?
Athanasios |
Yep. SD5401 does :blanking, video switching, black level clamp "sample switching" and onscreen switching.
On those scope shots you see highest bw in the midde of scopes screen, there is that one on/one off part, one video line is shown.
I had some problems with onscreens and blacklevel clamping with that dg612 board (that hadles all functions that sd5401 does) onscreens was unstable and smeared. Somehow that dg612 started those issues, i had to "put" some load after it (resistor to gnd) to tame those issues, at same time best sharpness was gone |
so does the dg612 improve the picture even with the extra load and less sharpness?
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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1031
Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 657
Location: Finland
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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nobody any clues about the qs4a101 switch?
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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another something from mikes site.
select int freq 2 30khz and look if the grid moves.
mine did, and i did as mike suggested clean all connectors, soldering of the relays and other critical points was done already.
after that i did something i should have done a long time ago and that is soldering u525 and u528 straight on the daughterboard.
after this the shaking is gone  .
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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yesterday my marquee was going haywire, the picture was spinning from top to bottom like crazy or the active image was dancing inside the raster or the grid lines went crazy, anyhow, the problem persisted. i have had this when i just got the pj but it went away and i never thought about it again.
this problem occured again when i soldered 2 chips directly on the dpb so the problem had to be on the dpb and it`s just logic that it is of course.
after that i thought about soldering the controller chip u7 directly on the dpb.
after some wrecking of the socket and with the aid of the hot air gun the socket was no more.
then i soldered u7 on the dpb (with solder paste and hot air) and the pj fired up fine with a strange sharp bend in the grid.
i reset all memories and now it is running fine again.
my advice is to solder those socketed chips straight on the dpb to prevent these things from happening.
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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tse
Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 1014
Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, that looks really good. Too bad those weren't around when the HDM was being designed. You might want to read the applications note at the end of the spec sheet. It would be worth looking at the mosfet drive with the main power disconnected to verify that the voltage is high enough. Pull P14 for insurance against tube damage.
Good find.
Scott
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"Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we would soon want bread."
Thomas Jefferson
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dvh99
Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 5:42 am Post subject: |
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if i am going to try them they better be worth every penny , they do not come cheap scott.
i doubt if they would have let you put such expensive fets on the hdm.
did the hdm modules fail often of overheating in warm environments or high resolution setups?
when running 1080p for a long period the heatsink gets too hot to touch.
_________________
1 answer always poses multiple questions.
marquee 9500ultra HD10L moome hdmi1.3 v3+ some mods.
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:42 am Post subject: |
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| dvh99 wrote: | | if i am going to try them they better be worth every penny , they do not come cheap scott. |
I just checked that those might also work in Barcos hot running Hsift- and horizontal boards, but then I checked prices.
78eur each from farnell and around $50 from US, those two boards need 9-14 chip. 
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