CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[1031]

[Nashou66]

Cool then send me the part numbers if you can find them.

Athanasios

[1031]

http://fi.farnell.com/1097072/connectors/product.us0?sku=harting-0903-196-6922

http://fi.farnell.com/1096910/connectors/product.us0?sku=harting-0903-296-6825

Those should work ok.

Board should be similar that this:

http://fi.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/498520.xml

Edit:
http://www.newark.com/95M0424/supplier-direct-ship/product.us0?sku=VERO-09-2196L&_requestid=97533

That 100x160 one. So that extends only 16cm/6,2" but that is enough for vim and also for fcm.
Three boards are needed, one for each pin row.
That is little too wide, but those veroboards are easy to cut smaller.

[Nashou66]

Jarmo last link wont open for me?

Athanasios

[Nashou66]

jarmo i finally think i figured out that PCB program, its only a 16 day trial but i got a board design for the gamma and i thinik it looks good figuring out the ground plane was hard then i realized i neede to conect all the points that would go to ground..then it allowed my to create the ground plane. here is a pic. But hte program will not allow me to save the gerber file, all i have is the MPC file for it and not sure if anyone can use it if they dont have the same program.

Athanasios

[1031]

Here is my version, pm your addres so i send two boards to you
I trye to found time to test that pcb how it works on 2005-03p vim.
Soldering looks terrible, i had to take parts from another pcb But that is just test version...

[1031]

[antorsae]

Hey guys, this looks like great work and progress, but can you summarize the benefits of modding each board and if you have perceived it... (e.g. what does one gain modding the HPVS, the focus board, etc.).

[Nashou66]

[PaulB]

Blast! I think I may have lifted a trace. Could someone confirm what the circled point on the VIM connects to please? The trace goes under U8. I presume its supposed to connect to one of the U8 pins but I'm not getting a beep from my multimeter - is it connected to U8?




Thanks,
Paul

[1031]

I checked that and it seems that is connected to "test point row" marked P4, Point 9. That "test point row" is near U10 .
All three (U13,U19 and U25,) pin6 shoud be connected to that same point.

[HK-Steve]

PaulB,
No, It is not connected to U8,
It goes to the bottom layer of the circuit board,


Hope this helps
Cheers
Steve

[PaulB]

Big sigh of relief

Thanks Jarmo and Steve, thats a HUGE headache just been averted.

Good to see you back on the forums Steve, thought we'd lost you.

All the best,
Paul

[Nashou66]

[PaulB]

Great advice Athanasios, thanks for that.

I was pretty sure I had lifted a trace but thought I had fixed it. When I then tested the pins using a multimeter, I suddenly found that a trace that I thought went to U8 wasn't working and was pretty sure i had badly messed it it up. Thank the Gods that everything is ok!

Just about to do the Snap fix and the Dot fix. If I do a good job I'll post piccies as part of the Maintenance thread. If I screw it up I'll just keep quiet

Paul

[Nashou66]

The CLM has many IC's that are delicate so do not keep the heat on those to long. I have some mods for the CLM I think that will be next, but summer is upon us and not sure how much time i'll have for that. Also the mods are done a I did not take any pics of me doing the work as i did these before i decided to start this thread, so they'll just be pics of the mods already done. I still need to put some more caps on that as well and take it to the point where It wont give any Start up problems that were posted On the thread i got most of my ideas from. These mods takes more time because you need to find the correct polarity of the pads the tant will go on....i "poped" a few already and it scares ya! those little "A" case tants can make some noise !


Athanasios

[PaulB]

These mods refer to a couple of annoying issues encountered on the Marquee. Not manadatory but worth the effort to get rid of the issues concerned.

Snap Fix
For all Marquees built prior to July 1997
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/ElectrohomeMarqueeTechnicalBulletin_TB97-04.pdf refers.

On the CLM, R35 needs to be removed and replaced with a 1206 Thick Film Chip Resistor 3.3K Ohm 5% - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=qMfmu90U8P7PWv9SaN2%2flw%3d%3d or similar.

This is what the new resistor looks like


R35 is located beneath the Stigmator Waveform daughter Board on the CLM and the Sigmator board will have to be removed to get to it.

Location of R35 on the CLM, Stigmator board removed



The old resistor has now been removed. (I just wicked away the old solder and removed the resistor)



New 3.3k ohm, 5% 1206 resistor in place.




Dot Fix
For all Marquees built prior to Jan 2000
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/ElectrohomeMarqueeTechnicalBulletin_Tb00-02.pdf refers.

On the VIM, an additional capacitor needs to be soldered on top of R85. Use a 1206 SMD Ceramic Chip Capacitor, 50volt 560pF 5% - http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=HJVzmxtVamGGiDAaeFtQvQ%3d%3d or similar.

This is what the new capacitor looks like;


Location of R85 on an 02 VIM



New capacitor added on top of existing one (soldering is a lot better than it looks in the photo )



Hope this helps a few folks,
Paul

[1031]

Nice work Paul
Solderings look good

[Nashou66]

Paul I am soooo proud of you ! Make me feel better about what i am doing here. keep on soldering away buddy !

And thanks for the addition to this thread.

Athanasios

[Tom.W]

Don't forget this VERY good Marquee sight !

http://www.hometheater1.com/techb2.htm