CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[dvh99]

why not use imageshack as your host, it`s free afaik. and without an expiration date.

what would we gain by getting rid of the relays?

getting the clm mod done plus getting the internal vid away by putting a switch on the 5v supply of u106 does more to pq.

[Nashou66]

going directly from the moome card to the first RGB op amp is a good mod. But you loose the RGB HV input.

I already have a facebook account. Don't feel like opening any more web crap.

At some point i want to make a home based hosting site on my own PC.

Athanansios

[CxTurbo]

Hey Nash,

Thanks to you my HVPS and LVPS are all modded up and working flawlessly. Although the original carbon resistors under the 1uF caps seem to have burt the board at some point the HVPS still works great.

I will be doing my CVM,VDM and Stig boards next as I have to do the squeeze mod on the VDM anyway. I am probably going to do the Diodes, Caps both poly and electrolytics etc. on these boards and use the Poly switches in place of the fuse resistors as TSE (Scott) posted.

I was looking at the opamps on my VDM and saw that I do not have any TL084 that I can see. It looks like I have 6 TL074 or TL072 (not at home at the moment to look) Are those the ones to switch to TLE2074NC o TLE2084NC ? They are in the DIP14 package correct? Which would you recommend. I see that there is also a High temp ceramic version in the data sheet. The TLE2074MJ If I recall or is the 85* one fine as the other looks to be up to 125*.

Also should I add my OSCON caps on the VCC+ and VCC- of those op amps as well.


I also saw that somebody (Jarmo?) did an over volt/filter mod for the filament voltage. Did you ever work out a way to just do the filering end of it? You had discussed a PCB or something but I can not remember seeing progress. I know you are a busy man regardless.

Thanks my friend, I value what you have started in this thread.

James

[Nashou66]

No need for the high temp TLE's. And yes, add the Oscons there as well. I have used up to 100uf's In some paces like my newer version CMM that the longbows had i needed the 100uf caps. i have not tested on the VDM or HDM. But from what I have seen on other op amps and some digital chips they really help.

Thanks for the kind words James.

PS I'm thinking of coming up to TO for the New Order show on the 24th this month. Not sure yet but I want to go.

Nashou

[CxTurbo]

Should be a good show. Although I do miss the old Joy Division stuff with Ian Curtis. Still great music though. I hope you can find some time for yourself and get there.

Now I just have to find what polyswitch to use in the 1.2 ohm position or I'll have to piggyback a 1 ohm and 2.2 ohm.......... Boards are going to look funny as hell with all those polyswitches in them.

Think I am going to go with the TLE2084NC's but not sure just yet. I was diging around and it appears that the information on the ground strap mod for those rear boards has dissapeared on me. You have any info saved on that by chance?

Thanks for the help Nash.

James

[1031]

[CxTurbo]

Thanks for the update.

Hope you have time to tinker again soon.

James

[CxTurbo]

I am going through the schematics for the CVA, VDM etc. to get the values and quantities of the film capacitors. Just wondering if anyone has a good online resource for decoding the markings on them? I would like to know what series and make they were to see specs and compare with the Wima's that I will be putting in. Learning something in the process is also a plus.

Secondly. I noticed a bunch of decoupling caps in one of the schematics ( Think it was for the CVA on the first page I do not have them handy at the moment) that appear to be of the same axial (ceramic?) type that I removed and replaced in the LVPS with the Wimas as suggested in that guide. Would there be any benifit to changing them out again in this instance?

[barclay66]

Hi,

Just a quick question to the fellow "Marquee Optimizers":

I recently acquired a nice box of OSCONs (>450 pcs, >20 values/voltages) for a very good price. Now I'd like to add some of them at critical points like the OP-Amps in the video chain. I think all of them are fed with a symmetrical supply (e.g. +5V / -5V). So here's the question:

Do You think it's better to put in two of the OSCONs (from each supply line to GND) or only one (from one supply line to the other)? In any case I would solder them as close to the OP-Amps as possible.

Thank You for Your suggestions!

Regards,
barclay66

[CxTurbo]

I figured out my other questions but have more now . LOL!

On the CVA I found the 24 1.2R resistor locations. Are these also fusible mf's or plain resistors? Only reason I am asking is because all the others listed have a making on the schematic and the 1.2R's do not. Lastly if the symbol means anything there are 6 68R resistors listed (R223,123,423,323,523 and 623) Should these also be changed out or not.

I would like to use Poly switches in all the locations as TSE posted if they are in fact fused resistors. If they are fused any suggestion on the number of the RXEF I should use? Looking at them they seem to list a working range and would like to be sure in the value before ordering.

[barclay66]

[CxTurbo]

Thanks for the input.

I have that same list that TSE posted.

Mike Parker made mention of the 1.2R resistors saying they were "Mickey Mouse" Nash made mention of changing them out with KOA's.

Regardless if they are not fused that solves the problem I had looking for RXEF's for that location.

Is there any point in replacing the Z5U coupling caps on the +/- 14V rails and VDD/VEE of the VDM? I understand that they have horrid stability issues with temperature and seeing as they are on the OP amps etc. I wonder if it would be of any benefit to sub them with something else that is more stable like a Tantalum or film of some type.

Thoughts?

[barclay66]

[CxTurbo]

Thanks for the tips.

What amperage inductors are you using 3A?

I assume your LM4040's are 10V?

James

[barclay66]

James,

The LM4040 comes in 10V, 5V, 4.1V and 2.5V. I used them according to the voltages required. So, if the supply is 12V and the voltage divider is 2K+10K then the 10V version is right.

The inductors are from scrapped power supplies. I measured their value and the wire should be good enough for 3A or more. You should be safe If You take 3A types.

Regards,
barclay66

[Nashou66]

Geeze I got out golfing 9 holes and come back to all these great ideas!!! Keep them coming!!!

For the OsCons id just put them over the Pins of the op amps and on the decoupling caps add a 1uf or do as CS did and twist to pairs of 1uf skycaps COG ceramics or any other quality COG ceramic.

Nashou

[CxTurbo]

Barclay,

Forgive my ignorance. How are you making connections of the LM4040A? Did you remove R22 and R29? and how did you then make the connections? Did you leave one resistor out and replace the other by connecting the + pin to the +12v and - pin to ground and leaving N/C floating. Also did you use the TO-92 package?

Again sorry to be a pain.

James

[barclay66]

James,

No pain. It's just that I have to get some sleep now (1:48am).
The picture says it all. The LM4040 is used as a shunt regulator and I have them all in TO-92...

Regards,
barclay66

[CxTurbo]

Awesome, Thanks for the help.

[dvh99]

shouldn`t the 2k resistor be optimized for this purpose?

here is a part from the datasheet.