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lyd
Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi
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| Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Elaine Benes wrote: | For a Marquee, you should always use the internal HELP guide and set it up EXACTLY how they tell you to set it up, having your source running the whole time while you do it.
There are some things about setting up a Marquee that are somewhat different than an NEC or a Sony or other projectors that use dynamic convergence primarily instead of zone convergence.
There's a sequence in the Marquee setup where it tells you to get your projector setup correctly you need to pivot your projector around an imaginary center point to achieve a symmetrical and centered image on your screen. This differs from *many* setup theories in that most recommend you have everything dead square/centered/perpendicular to the screen and then adjust using electronic controls. The Marquee doesn't require this to be the case. The exact phrase from my ancient 8000's help screen is " Pivot the projector and move it side to side AS REQUIRED to display a symmetrical crosshatch centered left to right on the screen". The caveat is added: " Note: Pivot around an imaginary vertical axis through the rear wing nut of the green lens to avoid changing the projector to screen distance." They're concern is primarily the correct throw distance for proper physical focus. As long as that is maintained, lens flapping and center/edge focus can focus your image regardless of your projectors exact orientation to the screen.
An NEC, for example, does not have continuously variable lens flapping, so NEC recommends you have your projector EXACTLY centered, squared, and perpendicular to your screen in order to be able to properly focus the image on the screen at all points.
Marquee setup isn't too concerned about absolute exact physical placement, but more with raster centering on the tubeface, then projector placement in relation to screen to produce a "symmetrical crosshatch centered left to right on the screen".
I believe this setup theory is pretty much particular to Marquee's, btw, but it works... |
Well... with the exception of electronically centering the raster (which I can't figure out how to do without going into the guided setup and would really appreciate knowing an alternative!) I can do all those steps without using the help menus. I really hate the guided setup, navigating it drives me bananas, but those steps are basically what I do, following Bill Blue's guide for the most part, with a sprinkling of Guy Kuo.
Thing is, even if you can setup a Marquee with less attention paid to physical positioning than with other projectors, it doesn't seem like you should. Even if you can focus the whole screen with no trouble, you are still going to be introducing geometry issues that are going to need to be corrected electronically, putting more strain on everything, right?
In any case, that's just wishful thinking for me, because as I said in my reply to Gary I have some other issues to deal with that pretty much force me into accepting a less than completely perfect physical setup.
Also, just try to "pivot around an imaginary vertical axis through the rear wing nut of the green lens" with a mount of unistrut and threaded rod!  It is not at all a smooth operation to square off while maintaining your centerline with this setup. If I wasn't hanging it so far down from the ceiling then it would pretty much be fixed to square with the top struts, but with a couple feet of rod I have all kinds of torque and flex to deal with.
This is a pic from the hanging process, those lower crosspieces with the chains attached were just for lifting and are gone now, but you get the idea.
lyd
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de gustibus non disputandum
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Lyd, I gotta ask. Is there a "Mistriss Marquee" that goes with that bondage setup? 8)
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Elaine Benes
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 1416
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 12:48 am Post subject: |
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That picture is the hellishly difficult reason I use my black pipe mount. I find it much easier to move the projector to the correct starting point with a couple of shoves...
You say : "even if you can setup a Marquee with less attention paid to physical positioning than with other projectors, it doesn't seem like you should. " Yet that is the essence of the guided Marquee setup. IF you follow it, you're starting from a position of ALL electronics zeroed, except raster centering, which is the first thing you do, THEN you make your starting grid centered and symmetrical, WITHOUT adjusting ANYTHING electronic. It is the most neutral position you CAN start with, which is likely why the ever practical Canadian engineers at Electrohome told you to do it that way...
You are much less likely to induce banding in your setup if you do this as well. I recently setup a buddies 8500LC, using more NEC type logic, and had banding because of too much geometry settings needed to square stuff away. To get rid of it, I just followed the guided setup exactly, and ended up with a much more precise, and less stressful setup which had no banding, because of very little geometry correction being necessary.
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lyd
Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:15 am Post subject: |
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| Elaine Benes wrote: | | IF you follow it, you're starting from a position of ALL electronics zeroed, except raster centering, which is the first thing you do, THEN you make your starting grid centered and symmetrical, WITHOUT adjusting ANYTHING electronic. |
I like that pipe mount a lot.
How are you determining the grid is symmetrical, by eye?
The problem I seem to be having is that with everything zeroed and the rasters centered on the tubes the grid is not symmetrical to start out with and, when I was going down the path of moving the projector to make it so, was winding up moving it way off physical center to compensate.
In any case, I'm done monkeying with it for another couple of weeks at least. Won't have time to do anything but watch movies until then. The end result is only marginally better than before I reset everything, but that looks pretty good, and is certainly damn enjoyable to sit down and watch a movie on, so it could be a lot worse.
I still have a big list of small things I'd like to resolve, though. Some of them seem like they might be problems with electronic components, but others I'm pretty sure are shortcomings in my setup.
I need to go all the way back to magnetics next time around.
lyd
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Elaine Benes
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 1416
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 1:50 am Post subject: |
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Personally, yes, I do determine symmetry by eye, I think I've said before, I'm probably not picky enough.... You can see how accurate your estimate of symmetry is when you start doing the geometry corrections. If its off by too much, your corrections won't have the neat desired effects.
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