CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

I picked up a new xg75 so I could use the tubes for my xg1352. I know I need to send to VDC to replace the LC housing, but while I have it apart is it worth taking the parts that are compatible in the 750 and putting them in the 1352.
The 750 looks pristine inside, no dust, zinc is still shiny, boards look like they just came off the line.

Doug, Curt, Mark any opinions

Also is there and trick to getting the various drive board out, I'm trying not to screw up the wiring harness

Thanks
Kevin

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:20 am Post subject:

Kevin,
Look over this link for access to remove drives. http://www.curtpalme.com/NECXG_Layout3.shtm

If the XG75 was a 751 more of the parts would work but for this you will need to match the PWC and the numbers that start with 721XXXXXX and 2R4 / 3A5 . Be careful because the rail voltages are different between some of the models. Doug

NateTTU · Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Posts: 297

If I'm not mistaken, I only thing the video board from your 75 can be used on the 1352. Most of the boards changed from generation to generation but I think the video board stayed pretty much the same. The sure thing to do is look on the boards part numbers and see if they match the ones in the 1352 model. Just to give you an idea, I had a XG1100 and got a XG1101 LC and I was only able to keep one maybe two boards from the entire set.
You shouldn't need to mess with any of the wiring harnesses to get those boards out. Just simply unplug them and slide them out the back.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 12:25 am Post subject:

I wouldn't mix and match. As Nate says, the video board is about all that swaps over, and they rarely fail. Cleanliness doesn't always mean a healthy projector anyways. It just means it was used in a clean environment.. Smile

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

Cool thanks guys, There's pins sticking out of the drives that look like they go into the heatsink cage. So those are not attached to anything?
So if I'm clear the only thing I'm looking at is to make sure the PWC#'s on the boards match? Or is there a revision to I need to look for?

Ok sorry reread your post doug, So essentially the 721# is a revision and match that too?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:04 am Post subject:

3A5 and 2R4 revisions on the various drive boards will not interchange.

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

I've look at all the drive # and everthing matches up board #'s, 721#'s and they are all 3A5, but the numbers after the 3A5 are different. I'm guessing that a date code or assmembly number or should those match.

Reason I'm asking is the 1352 blew the blue tube and where thinking the v drive was the culprit so I want to swap that over.

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:28 am Post subject:

The XG750 has 3A5 drive boards? Doug

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

Sorry I don't think I made myself clear. All the numbers on the drive boards between to 750 and 1352 match. the pwc #, the 721 # and they're all 3a5, except the numbers after the 3a5 ar different. What are those numbers are they relevent or just a production number?

Thanks

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:02 am Post subject:

What power supply is the 750? RPSXXXX U or A? You have to take the plastic front off. I don't have my s manual here for the 750. Doug

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

Doug
they are both rps6119 a's

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:35 am Post subject:

Then it should be right if the 750 runs ok. I dont see that model very much and some serial number lots were different. Usually the U will have 2-4 boards in it.

When you swap the V drive use one of the worn tubes you dont want or get a test crt to run out. Dont use a good one. It can snap the neck.
Check PM. Doug

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:03 am Post subject:

Is the A drive also a 3A5 in the 1352? Doug

deronmoped · Joined: 03 Nov 2006 Posts: 1154 Location: San Diego

You are asking for trouble if you start swapping stuff around. You could very well end up with a PJ that does not work. Save the extra PJ "whole" as a test rig and a parts donor. And if you do swap parts, always swap one part at a time and then test the PJ.

Also ask VDC for the old tubes back, you can either sell them (someone here might want them) or use them in the parts/test PJ.

Deron.

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

Doug, You're right the A drive on both is 2r4

F, C, and V are all 3A5 on both, with the same pwc and 721 number on both machines on corresponding boards

Mark_A_W · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:41 am Post subject:

I didn't think any boards would swap.

The video board mentioned, is that the VIDEO OUT board? I wouldn't swap that...

You sure this is a 750, not a 751? Does it have big or small neckboards?

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:27 pm Post subject:

Mark means two sub boards on each side. http://www.curtpalme.com/NECXG_Layout5.shtm

kevin_k · Joined: 25 Oct 2007 Posts: 67

Same size neckboards as the 1352, It's actually a Runco so I don't know if they used 750 or 751. I want to swap the v drive . I think that's fried on the 1352

Mark_A_W · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:42 pm Post subject:

Ahh, it's *probably* based on a 751.

It's not a 750 if it has big neckboards - the ones with two sub PCBs on the side.

If the V drive has the same Inkstamp (like 3A5) it should be fine.
But if you carefully compare the boards, looking at the supply voltage rails, you might see there's jumpers or links for running in a xxx0 chassis. They shouldn't be set differently.
I'm not certain the V-drive has these off hand. So just eyeball the boards carefully!.

dbaisey · Posted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 1:52 pm Post subject:

I kind of thought it was a 751. It makes sense now....on the inside cover make a note 'based off NEC 751' for the next guy if you sell. This is a nice treat. Doug