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voodoo7869
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 Posts: 193 Location: Chicago, IL USA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:49 pm Post subject: marquee lc housing swap |
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I have been reading for a while about removal of the housing to install on new tubes. I have seen several ways to do this. But am looking for the easy way. Also to make sure what is the proper silicone to use to reseal the tubes? And best way to keep the tube properly centered and straight.
Thank you to all in advance.
By the way any suggestions on how not to zap the heck out of your self when doing a magnetics alignment would be appreciated
John
_________________ Marquee 8000 modded, Marquee 9500lc with LUGs, Frankenyokes, and Moome. My avatar is not just a black box. CRT Is KING!!!!
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 791 Location: Oklahoma
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| Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:14 am Post subject: |
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John,
I recently did the same thing and I took plenty of pictures along the way. I wrote a summary of the process in a Word Document and included some tips that worked well for me.
It's not a finished document, and in fact - I think it would be good for other members to add to the document with their own tips and suggestions. Read through it, and flip through the pictures. Input is welcome.
Please note: The embedded links in the Word Document won't work. Just find the appropriate picture in the attached zip files.
(Edit: removed 3 unnecessary files. Refer to finished document at end of thread.)
_________________ -Nothing relevant to add.
Last edited by -Pjackso on Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:48 pm; edited 9 times in total
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voodoo7869
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 Posts: 193 Location: Chicago, IL USA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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great that will be really helpful. Thanks I will try it out and post comments or suggestions if i find anything that could help in the process of making a tut.
_________________ Marquee 8000 modded, Marquee 9500lc with LUGs, Frankenyokes, and Moome. My avatar is not just a black box. CRT Is KING!!!!
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voodoo7869
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 Posts: 193 Location: Chicago, IL USA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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some of your pics didd not post could you repost them. Thanks John
_________________ Marquee 8000 modded, Marquee 9500lc with LUGs, Frankenyokes, and Moome. My avatar is not just a black box. CRT Is KING!!!!
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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If you have a sec, drop and drag the pix into your Word document, and send it to Kal. that's worth putting on the site and will save me from doing it. I've never actually removed a tube from the MArquee frame, so I'l try it. The Dremel tool and drill bit is a great idea..
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voodoo7869
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 Posts: 193 Location: Chicago, IL USA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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it is missing a few pics if he posts them i would be willing to edit it any way you would like I could even make it a pdf if that would be a better format for you. all with. the authors permission though.
_________________ Marquee 8000 modded, Marquee 9500lc with LUGs, Frankenyokes, and Moome. My avatar is not just a black box. CRT Is KING!!!!
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 791 Location: Oklahoma
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| Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:13 am Post subject: |
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Missing pictures posted. Reference above zip files.
_________________ -Nothing relevant to add.
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Joust
Joined: 05 May 2006 Posts: 2429 Location: Almonte, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Marquee 8501LC
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| Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 3:24 am Post subject: |
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| voodoo7869 wrote: | | it is missing a few pics if he posts them i would be willing to edit it any way you would like I could even make it a pdf if that would be a better format for you. all with. the authors permission though. |
Kal Doesn't like PDFs.
He may actually prefer it this way as he HTMLizes it anyway.
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 791 Location: Oklahoma
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| Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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Curt,
I'll send the finished file to Kal in a day or two.
A good review, and additional input is welcome.
_________________ -Nothing relevant to add.
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 791 Location: Oklahoma
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| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 5:07 am Post subject: |
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...Here's the finished document - Pictures included.
Curt, I will email Kal.
| Description: |
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Electrohome Marquee LC tube replacement 101.zip |
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1.69 MB |
| Downloaded: |
372 Time(s) |
_________________ -Nothing relevant to add.
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fireanimal
Joined: 17 Jul 2007 Posts: 231 Location: Stayner, ON
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| Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the great tutorial!
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voodoo7869
Joined: 19 Oct 2007 Posts: 193 Location: Chicago, IL USA
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| Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 7:04 am Post subject: |
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Thanks great job A+++++
_________________ Marquee 8000 modded, Marquee 9500lc with LUGs, Frankenyokes, and Moome. My avatar is not just a black box. CRT Is KING!!!!
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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I just did this procedure, and will add one thing, maybe Kal can put this in the article:
I got as far as removing all the silicone from around the tube, did the prybar thing. The tube would NOT move. I tried top and bottom flexing, side to side. NOTHING. This was a pretty old housing, I think it was from a 9000, so maybe circa 1994.
Figuring I'd smash the tube envelope, I snapped the nipple off the end of the tube, so the tube wouldn't implode while I was beside it.
I took a lunch break, then went at it again. One good SMACK of the prybar/wedge from the side of the tube rather than the top or bottom ended up loosening it all at once. It took one good WHACK to loosen the tiny bit of silicone all around. Not that it mattered, but as the article says, the tubes are pretty damn hardy in the corners of the bell of the tube. I didn't have to break the vacuum, even though I was sure I was going to end up breaking the tube.
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Chuchuf
Joined: 11 Mar 2006 Posts: 548
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:10 am Post subject: |
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| Curt Palme wrote: | I just did this procedure, and will add one thing, maybe Kal can put this in the article:
I got as far as removing all the silicone from around the tube, did the prybar thing. The tube would NOT move. I tried top and bottom flexing, side to side. NOTHING. This was a pretty old housing, I think it was from a 9000, so maybe circa 1994.
Figuring I'd smash the tube envelope, I snapped the nipple off the end of the tube, so the tube wouldn't implode while I was beside it.
I took a lunch break, then went at it again. One good SMACK of the prybar/wedge from the side of the tube rather than the top or bottom ended up loosening it all at once. It took one good WHACK to loosen the tiny bit of silicone all around. Not that it mattered, but as the article says, the tubes are pretty damn hardy in the corners of the bell of the tube. I didn't have to break the vacuum, even though I was sure I was going to end up breaking the tube. |
Curt,
I have a crowbar I use thats about 3' long. Just pressure going from corner to corner and eventually the sealant on the front of the tube will break loose. The older the tube, the easier to get loose as the sealant becomes more brittle.
The main thing as pointed out in the document (well done BTW) is to get ALL the potting material out from the sides of the tube.
Terry
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:35 am Post subject: |
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Well I managed to smash the second tube.....
Working on the third now. I'll get this right...
NOt that I need the tube envelopes really, but I am trying to get them out intact.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24396 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Third time lucky, the third tube came out intact..
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-Pjackso
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 791 Location: Oklahoma
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:45 am Post subject: |
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Curt,
The wedge idea is originally from Tim and his prybar method. Although, ...most first-timers would be hesitant to use a 3 foot prybar to work the tube loose. I used a wedge because it would effectively do the same intention, but be a slower (and hopefully safer) process.
When you smashed your tube, were you actually hitting the tube - or were you using a wedge method?
Did it send shards of glass everywhere? That hasn't happened to me, but it sounds dangerous. Maybe a caution note in the document?
If anybody has a better idea/method of working the tube loose - or even a safety precaution then please update the document. I was hoping the more experienced people would recommend helpful tips.
Safety precaution? Put a sock over the tube neck during the tube loosening procedure (in case it scatters, the glass shards will be stopped).
_________________ -Nothing relevant to add.
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