CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[stefuel]

You guy's are all out there. When was the last time you actually looked at a good factory mount?????
I just happen to have a base plate right in front of me with 18 slotted holes. It allows for 3 inches side to side movement and 2 inches fore and aft. It allows for twist and tilt. If you can't get the plate up close enough for that, then you shouldn't own tools I'm not going to argue the point further as I'm convinced that everyone will side with the great Kal, right or wrong. You do it your way and I'll continue to do it the correct way.

[kal]

If a factory mount has play like that Chip it's a whole other story. Definitely interesting then. That would give you enough flexibility to dial it in 100% perfectly as long as you got the initial install ras bang on as possible.

For those that hushbox (and most should as 95% of CRTs are too noisy), why not save $200 and go with unistrut though? Factory mounts are hard to come by, expensive, and don't offer anything 'more' than a unistrut mount or metal pipe mount as per the original poster.

I dunno, I guess I'm of the opposite viewpoint: Why spend the money when it gives you nothing in return? I have no issues with someone paying big bucks for a few % of improvement but factory mounts don't give you anything more. I'm not a cheap bastard by any stretch of the imagination ($15-20K invested in speakers alone) but I hate spending money when it truly gives you nothing extra in return.

I agree that this thread's gone on long enough though... different viewpoints I suppose. Though I do agree that I wouldn't want to see exposed unistrut or pipe in the HT myself.

Kal

[kal]

If a factory mount has play like that Chip it's a whole other story. Definitely interesting then. That would give you enough flexibility to dial it in 100% perfectly as long as you got the initial install ras bang on as possible.

For those that hushbox (and most should as 95% of CRTs are too noisy), why not save $200 and go with unistrut though? Factory mounts are hard to come by, expensive, and don't offer anything 'more' than a unistrut mount or metal pipe mount as per the original poster.

I dunno, I guess I'm of the opposite viewpoint: Why spend the money when it gives you nothing in return? I have no issues with someone paying big bucks for a few % of improvement but factory mounts don't give you anything more. I'm not a cheap bastard by any stretch of the imagination ($15-20K invested in speakers alone) but I hate spending money when it truly gives you nothing extra in return.

I agree that this thread's gone on long enough though... different viewpoints I suppose. Though I do agree that I wouldn't want to see exposed unistrut or pipe in the HT myself.

Kal

[the_avguy]

[Heywood Jablome]

[stefuel]

I'm still stewing over the "ignorant" remark.

[Clarence]

[LOTREE]

Sorry to revive an old thread but I thought I'd show how this setup for can be adopted for the Electrohome ECP series, at least the 4500. I would assume they're all the same.

Unfortunately the ECP uses a 5/16-18 thread bolt for the legs instead of a 3/8" which will affect the design/material list in a number of ways.

First off the 5/16 thread eye-bolt has a 3/4" eye hole so the 1/2" inner diameter pipe shown cannot be used. Now you're probably thinking I have 1/4" to play with. Well, the 1/2" inner diameter pipe is actually larger mostly from the thickness of the wall plus the fact the eye-bolt holes are not a complete perfect circle where the head end touches the neck. Soooo... I used a 1/2" electrical conduit which is actually 3/4" and slides in with about 1/16-1/8" to spare.

I purchased the 10' x 1-5/8" c-channel 1/2" slotted strut and 10' x 1/2" conduit at Gray Bar which is available in most areas. The strut was $22.67 and the conduit was $3.00 ($4.98 at HomeDepot for the exact same item).

While a 1-1/2" washer is perfect for the outside/bottom for clamping the bolts in position they cannot be used inside the strut which measures 1-7/16" as they are too wide. I managed to find a 1-3/8" washer but it does have slight play in the channel plus it has a 9/16" hole so backing it with a 1-1/4" and 5/16" hole washer doesn't help as it will just slide around. I was originally going to use the 1-1/4" washer but it was sloppy so the quest begins again to find a new washer or I'll just cut/grind the 1-1/2" washers I bought to fit the 1-7/16 strut channel.

To mount the strut to the ceiling I bought 3/8" x 4" lag bolts with a washer that fits but again it is 1-1/2" so they need to be returned.

I'll update the rest tomorrow if I get a chance with pictures and hopefully have a chance to converge the projector also!

[Elaine Benes]

You can use tin snips to just snip a bit off any washers that are too big, a bonus of doing this is they don't turn in side the channel if they have a flat side...

[LOTREE]

Not sure if I can use snips on 1/16" washers, seems a bit thick but I guess I could try. I think a hack saw may work best.

[Elaine Benes]

[JustGreg]

[Elaine Benes]

This mounting method works great with a Barco 808S too.

I now have a Barco, and the mount channel pieces bolted to the bottom of the projector which are made to fit into the factory mount just happen to have four holes in them which are perfect places to bolt the eye bolts needed to push the black pipe through. I was able to mount my Barco using the same method, and the same pieces of unistrut I'd already fastened to the ceiling joists for my Marquee.

Because the unistrut gave me forward/back adjustment, I was able to get the mount position of the longer Barco to the correct place without having to move anything that was already lag bolted to the joists...

[benareeno]

Well...according to chip, you're both foolish for attempting such mounting techniques...best to order in the factory mount and hope you get it right. What a ridiculous argument! Factory mounts as good as a custom uni-strut mount? Give me a break. Maybe with your mult-holed factory mount...but not with the factory mounts I've seen.

Who would come into such a thread and try to pooh-pooh it? And then cry when put in his place...just ridiculous.

[CIR Engineering]

I feel Kal is right on with his comments. I have never been able to line up a projector nearly as well with a factory mount as compared to uni-strut... it's just not possible.

Furthermore, with my uni-strut mount the projector is only 2.25" from the ceiling and with a G90 mount it would be about 4" down from the ceiling. 1.75" may not seem like much, but my ceilings are only 7'8" tall and I need to keep all the head room I can possibly maintain.

And furthermore again, my house is 105 years old and the joists are not spaced as they are in new houses, they are further apart. If I wanted to use a Sony mount I would need a large, heavy, metal base plate, or two pieces of uni-strut to mount the mount to in order to span the joists... and that would have cost me tons more ceiling height. I have G90 mounts here, but I prefer uni-strut in most installations (though not all). One thing the factory mounts tend to allow for is easier adjustments to the pitch, but you can do that with uni-strut as well.

craigr

[benareeno]

craigr,

how often do you spin up a laser disc?

[Nashou66]

[benareeno]

are you suggesting he's lying?? Or do you think he genuinely believes a uni-strut mount is a good solution? I mean really....what is the point that is being argued here?

[Nashou66]

[benareeno]

nothing is impossible...uni-strut is the better solution, simple as that.

[Nashou66]

Pulley mounts are the best simpler and simple as that lol


Nashou