CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

km987654 · Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 3:43 am Post subject: Barco 1100 LC Tank Removal

Are there any tutorials or descriptions of how to remove a tube from a tank and replace it on a Barco 1100 LC projector.
I have some tubes that are leaking and may need to be resealed so might as well learn how to remove and replace them.

There is a description on this site on how to perform the above on a Sony but those tubes are very different to the Barco 1100.

KM

r.bauer · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 280 Location: The Netherlands

Removing the tube from an BG1100 mount is not that diffiult. Just get a knife and cut through the silicone around the tube.
Reseating the tube in its proper position and resealing the tube is (almost) impossible, as the tube hangs free from the mount, it does not come in to contact with the mount, there is no way to fix the tube in its position.

Best thing to do is leave the tube in the mount and find the spot where the leak occurs, clean the surface with alcohol and apply extra silicone on the outside at that position, enough to overlap the leak. Let it dry for a cuople of days. This method works well with these tubes.

km987654 · Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:32 am Post subject:

You mean that the tube does not sit in a recess in the metal frame and that the only thing holding the tube in its position is the silicon.

KM

r.bauer · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 280 Location: The Netherlands

Yes.

km987654 · Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:03 pm Post subject:

One of the tubes that I am replacing has imploded so I decided to temove the tank from this tube as practice. I have removed all the silicon from around the bell of the tube but it will not budge and I don't want to force it for the obvious reasons. Just looking at the way it is assembled though it would appear that it does sit in some form of recess and that apears to be the reason that I still cannot remove the tube.

KM

Ile · Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:13 pm Post subject:

Pretty much all tubes fave also thin layer of silicone between front glass and hardware. You need to cut also that using thin blade. If hardware is similar what BG1200 have, top and bottom edges are in sort of recessed and need to be cutted from c-element side.

When gluing tubes back, this front glass silicone layer is very important in Sony tubed projector, since white seam between front glass and bell won't stand glycol very well.

deronmoped · Joined: 03 Nov 2006 Posts: 1154 Location: San Diego

I found a way.

You thread a strong piece of nylon thread from one side to the other and use a sawing motion as you go around the tube. What's nice about this, is you are not using any metal around the glass that could chip or break it and it gets to areas that a blade will not. The hardest part is getting the thread through, you have to poke around with a needle to find a spot you can push it through.

Deron.

**AnalogRocks** · Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:48 pm Post subject:

km987654 · Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:55 pm Post subject:

Thanks for all the good ideas. I have since removed a tube from its LC tank and yes the only ting holding it in was the silicon between the front of the tube and the LC tank. I used an RTV silicon good for 260 Degrees Celcius and would dry in 10 minutes. After two days I refilled the tank with Glycol and it leaked. I drained the tank and removed the silcon from the area that leaked and found that it had not set. I have resiliconed that area and plan to leave for 7 days.
Some have suggested that you should simply put silicon over the leaking area but I would point out that when I initially removed the silicon from the tube glycol had made its way to the surface of the silicon all the way arround the tube. In fact if you looked really closely you could see a fine row of bubbles in the sillcon right next to the tube. When that silcon was removed it show advanced signs of honeycombing indicating that it would have failed .

Having said you should remove and replace silcon around the tube this is not a simple task I intend to get it right though because its the only real way to protect the projector from glycol.

If any one has performed this successfully I would be interested in the silicon they used.

KM

r.bauer · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 280 Location: The Netherlands

I always use the 'normal' silicone (for your bathroom). Choose black or white. As plain and simple as one can find in the DIY store whithout any additives. It is usually the cheapest one can find. I cure it for at least a week as it cures at a rate of 1 or 2mm a day (read the label) , so you can calculate how long it takes to cure.

In the case of 1100 tubes: I have stopped leaking BG1001 tubes, which are the same: the notorious SD146A, in the method I described earlier: thorough cleaning on the outside and applying more silicone around the leak. This will only work on small spots.

Ray Cendroski · Joined: 22 Apr 2006 Posts: 68 Location: Concord, Ohio

Keith,

I've done about a half dozen 9" Barco to Ampro tank changes, and have had good luck with the generic tubes of GE Silicon II (generally black) available at most hardware stores. It is different from the normal silicon calk in that it doesn't use acetic acid as a curing agent. The silicon II doesn't have a vinegar smell. Large electrical motor manufacturers went thru a bad learning curve a long time ago with regular silicon as an insulation agent. Acid vapors were enough to ruin the brushes in the motors over time.

Ray

km987654 · Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:05 am Post subject:

Thanks Ray. How long should I wait for the silicon to cure?

KM

Ile · Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:47 pm Post subject:

I have used black Hylomar 102 rtv for years now, I use it also for hv cable swap.
http://www.hylomar.co.uk/TDS%20Hylomar%20102.pdf

48 hour curing is enough for few mm seam.

Ray Cendroski · Joined: 22 Apr 2006 Posts: 68 Location: Concord, Ohio