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Getting ready to put my hand in the scary place...
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:08 am    Post subject:

Any glue that is covering copper winding s should not be touched. the glue over the focus coil housing and the silicone over the stig rings should be removed but only if you undertsand how to adjust them. For the front sweep coil, loosen the the little clamp bolt on the convergence coil, grab the ferrite bell on the sweep coil, and give it a good twist to break the glue free.
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:34 am    Post subject:

Okay, thank you guys.

Unfortunately, I may be shot down here, at least for the moment. I just realized by feeling around that there are globs of glue running all the way around to the back side. It doesn't seem like there is any way I could carefully remove it the way it is. I'm not sure I am prepared to try removing the tubes just yet, especially on the ceiling. I am going to have to think about this...

It may be wiser to go back to just tilting the entire projector for while, and/or using the electronic adjustments. I know that is not optimum, but it seems like it wouldn't be the worst idea to get a better feel for how this is supposed to work before I start tearing it down to a point where I might break things.

lyd
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:13 am    Post subject: Oh-oh.

Well, not everything is glued in place after all. The focus yoke is really loose in there, as I just found out when I bumped it with the back of my hand. It wobbles all over the place. Am I correct in understanding it should not shift around up/down and left/right relative to the neck?

lyd
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:20 am    Post subject: Re: Oh-oh.

lyd wrote:
Well, not everything is glued in place after all. The focus yoke is really loose in there, as I just found out when I bumped it with the back of my hand. It wobbles all over the place. Am I correct in understanding it should not shift around up/down and left/right relative to the neck?

lyd

No it's designed to move in all axis'. That movement is critical for getting good focus and spot shape. It shouldn't however have been loose and floppy when you bumped it. Somebody's been there before you and got your pj's cherry. Rolling Eyes

While you're in there poking around, make sure the scan yoke is as close to the tube bell as you can get it and secure.

Greg

EDIT:Oh...and as far as getting zapped by the leads to the scan yoke (AKA sweep yoke...1000 volts), taint no big thang.
Doc says I'll be able to take a crap without a machine annnnnny day now.

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Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:27 am    Post subject: Re: Oh-oh.

I meant not designed to move when not loose for adjustment, which I guess you are confirming.

JustGreg wrote:
While you're in there poking around, make sure the scan yoke is as close to the tube bell as you can get it and secure.


Everything else is glued solid. I would really like to adjust that scan yoke, but I just can't see how I can get in there to free the glue between the yoke and the tube glass. Has anyone else done this without having to remove the tube? What sort of tool did you use? My fingers sure aren't going to fit in there.


lyd
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Axatax



Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Posts: 403


TV/Projector: Sony VPH-G70Q (aka Barco Cine8 Onyx)

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:50 pm    Post subject:

Geez... Which caveman designed those yokes!?
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Oh-oh.

lyd wrote:
I meant not designed to move when not loose for adjustment, which I guess you are confirming.

JustGreg wrote:
While you're in there poking around, make sure the scan yoke is as close to the tube bell as you can get it and secure.


Everything else is glued solid. I would really like to adjust that scan yoke, but I just can't see how I can get in there to free the glue between the yoke and the tube glass. Has anyone else done this without having to remove the tube? What sort of tool did you use? My fingers sure aren't going to fit in there.


lyd

I only had one with glue drizzled most of the way around the side that refused to budge without more drastic measures. So I used a piece of metal pallet banding and ground a sharp edge to the blunt end, then heated that end with a small torch and it zinged right through the glue. It took me longer to grind it and heat it than to get through the glue. You may be able to get by without even grinding it. It's hard to find that banding these days as most businesses use reinforced nylon or polyester but a hacksaw blade modified the same way will work just as well.

Greg

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Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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Fujifrontier



Joined: 20 Oct 2007
Posts: 354
Location: San Antonio, Texas

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Oh-oh.

[quote="JustGreg"]
lyd wrote:
taint no big thang.


you might want to put an apostrophe at the beginning Wink
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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:08 pm    Post subject:

lyd wrote:
Okay, thank you guys.
Unfortunately, I may be shot down here, at least for the moment. I just realized by feeling around that there are globs of glue running all the way around to the back side. It doesn't seem like there is any way I could carefully remove it the way it is. I'm not sure I am prepared to try removing the tubes just yet, especially on the ceiling. I am going to have to think about this...
lyd
like I said before
draganm wrote:
For the front sweep coil, loosen the the little clamp bolt on the convergence coil, grab the ferrite bell on the sweep coil, and give it a good twist to break the glue free.

cutting away at the glue is very risky, so much as a scratch on the copper windings is enough to ruin the entire yoke. trust me on this, loosen the little clamp screw on the convergence yoke then grab the sintered Iron bell of the sweep yoke and twist it back and forth. That hot glue will break free from the bell without too much trouble and you can leave the sweep yoke and convergence coil glued to each other. I have only done this about 60 times so I know what i'm talking about. Wink
If you have trouble getting your hand in there, simply remove the uppe half of the plastic tube housing.
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:56 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
lyd wrote:
Okay, thank you guys.
Unfortunately, I may be shot down here, at least for the moment. I just realized by feeling around that there are globs of glue running all the way around to the back side. It doesn't seem like there is any way I could carefully remove it the way it is. I'm not sure I am prepared to try removing the tubes just yet, especially on the ceiling. I am going to have to think about this...
lyd
like I said before
draganm wrote:
For the front sweep coil, loosen the the little clamp bolt on the convergence coil, grab the ferrite bell on the sweep coil, and give it a good twist to break the glue free.

cutting away at the glue is very risky, so much as a scratch on the copper windings is enough to ruin the entire yoke. trust me on this, loosen the little clamp screw on the convergence yoke then grab the sintered Iron bell of the sweep yoke and twist it back and forth. That hot glue will break free from the bell without too much trouble and you can leave the sweep yoke and convergence coil glued to each other. I have only done this about 60 times so I know what i'm talking about. Wink
If you have trouble getting your hand in there, simply remove the uppe half of the plastic tube housing.


Oh, yes, right! That's great news. Sorry I didn't catch it the first time, all the similar but slightly different ways of referring to the same part have me mildly confused. Scan yoke, sweep coil, sweep yoke, scan coil, deflection yoke, deflection coil, etc. The yoke/coil stuff is clear enough, but the rest had me thrown for a bit.

It is hugely encouraging to hear that I do not have to try to get in there and cut at that thing. I was worried that trying to horse it free like that would result in an imploded tube. I'm happy to hear I can do it that way. I'll give it a try tonight. Thank you!

lyd
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:17 pm    Post subject:

That worked great! Thank you again, so much.

Rotating it counter-clockwise from its current position seems to push it back away from the tube a bit, from all the glue stuck on there I guess, but I am pretty sure that I will be rotating it clockwise to correct the particular tilt I had, anyway.

I'm so happy to be able to get back to work on this!

lyd
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JustGreg



Joined: 07 Mar 2006
Posts: 3098
Location: Kenosha, WI

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:28 pm    Post subject: Re: Oh-oh.

[quote="Fujifrontier"]
JustGreg wrote:
lyd wrote:
taint no big thang.


you might want to put an apostrophe at the beginning Wink

I would have but I used them all up....I sent a long email to a friend in Indonesia. Laughing

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Greg

"Is it ignorance or apathy? Hey, I don't know and I don't care!" --Jimmy Buffett
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GEBrown



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 729
Location: Denver

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:04 pm    Post subject:

draganm wrote:
. . . To rotate the the front sweep yoke, simply grab the cast iron bell on the outside and don;t touch the windings. It's not as scary as it looks, I have done this dozens of times in many dark home theatres working overhead on the ceiling and never been shocked. . . .


Well, guys, Dragan may not remember getting shocked, but you all oughta see what he looks like these days:



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draganm



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:10 pm    Post subject:

LOL too funny. I actually don't mind the look so much but I'm forced to sit at the back of the theatre now Laughing I've kinda lost my fear of the voltages in a CRt chassis and I'm sure that's not a good thing. Hopefully my luck holds out and I don't acquire that fear the hard way. Wink
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lyd



Joined: 15 Sep 2007
Posts: 390
Location: Lake Mills, Wi

Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:48 pm    Post subject:

cmjohnson wrote:
For additional safety, get some GE Silicone II and cover the exposed pins on the deflection yoke with it. Be sure to get a pretty deep
layer over the pins. I'd want an eighth of an inch or more. You might even go so far as to silicone a plastic protective cap over those pins.


This didn't seem like the worst idea in the world, but the silicone I happened to have copious quantities of was GE RTV 108, which corrodes "sensitive metals" and is definitely not for use around electronics.

I was going to skip it, but I just stumbled across an end-cap display at the borg while picking up something else, so I grabbed a tube of II.

Thing is, I can't find any information at all on its electrical insulation properties. If I was going to bother with it, I wanted to be sure to use enough to insulate ~40kV. Do you have any direct knowledge of this (or know where to find it) or did "an eighth of an inch or more" just seem like a good amount? I don't really want to muck up those terminals if it is just a placebo...

Thanks.

lyd
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 2:10 am    Post subject:

Its not much protection at all, if any at 35 Kv, but only the anode has 35K the yoke maybe 1,000 volts if that much. Stand on a thick dry rubber mat and use just one hand. Use a thick rubber glove if your worried...


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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 3:51 am    Post subject:

You'd think the guy would go deaf sitting in the middle of all that...
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6635


Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 4:07 am    Post subject:

Trick photo. But the transformer is real. The Tesla coil. Great invention along with many others... Do a search for Tesla Wink
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garyfritz



Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 12088
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:25 am    Post subject:

Oh, I know exactly who Tesla was (his lab was about 100mi south of here in Colo Springs), and what a Tesla coil is. Which is why I know how loud that would be. You sure that's a trick photo? I thought he liked to hang out near the coil when it was going apeshit. Smile
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:28 am    Post subject:

That looks like fun.
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