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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Fri Oct 12, 2007 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe you find somebody from sweden to make bare tube swap to current hardwares. Making it locally is more less hassle and no risk that complete tube get broken in transport.
It's not rocket science if I can do it. 
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ncc1701d
Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 187
Location: sweden
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe you can describe the procedure for me?
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BG1208 and BG1208/2
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ncc1701d
Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 187
Location: sweden
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| Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:53 am Post subject: |
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I have mailed you again..
| Chuchuf wrote: | I have them available new MEC (I have to check to see if I have DMB's or DVB's which are Bacro). These are not rebuilds but new factory MEC tubes.
Sets are $1200, individual tubes are $450. I have quite a few but have been so busy w/ 9" tubes that I haven't really paid attention to the 8"ers.
This is for the raw tube. Mounting the tube in your housing is $100/tube w/ new glycol. You send me your old tube, I do the R&R.
You can email me at terfer@comcast.net or call 404-557-6351
Sorry for the ad Curt and Kal.
Terry |
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BG1208 and BG1208/2
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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| ncc1701d wrote: | | Maybe you can describe the procedure for me? |
Bleed glycol out of tube. Filling screw(s) is under aluminium tape in some Barco tubes.
You need to remove front glass first, thats done using sharp knife. Cut rtv seam carefully and clean all rtv from glass.
Remove most of rtv from frame rear seam using knife.
Then there is two alternative:
1. Cut also seam between tube face and frame using thin wallpaper knife.
2. Place big peace of wood to tube face and use few clamps or hydraulic press to press tube out of frame.
Clean tube front glass (if it's used) and frame from remaining rtv. Then just glue all together with black rtv, like
http://www.hylomar.com/pdfs/MSDS/TDS%20Hylomar%20102.pdf
Use same seam thicknesses that originally and let dry day or two. Fill with glycol using syringe.
Start practising with those burnt tubes.
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ncc1701d
Joined: 08 Aug 2007
Posts: 187
Location: sweden
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| Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like the same procedure as i did with my old Sony 1020 (sd-187? tubes) that got fungus..
What kind of glycol should i use? OR do i keep the old one? (like i did on the sd-187 tubes).
How do i remove the shiny lead shielding around the tube without ripping it apart? (at the front of the tube where there are wires ands tuff)
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BG1208 and BG1208/2
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Ile
Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1491
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland
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| Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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| ncc1701d wrote: | Sounds like the same procedure as i did with my old Sony 1020 (sd-187? tubes) that got fungus..
What kind of glycol should i use? OR do i keep the old one? (like i did on the sd-187 tubes).
How do i remove the shiny lead shielding around the tube? (at the front of the tube where there are wires ands tuff) |
It's like fungus removal, but you need to remove also aluminium frame.
You can use old glycol if it's still clear. When it get old it turn yellowish.
If it's gone bad you can try to find crt cooling fluid, but it's hard from europe and it's not allowed to ship overseas.
I have used straight propylene glycol (from pharmacy) for AC tubes without problems. It can't be mixed with old fluid.
For LC I mix 30% glycerol to propylene glycol to match original fluid refraction index.
I don't think that sticker shield is needed to remove, just make small hole to it if filling screw is under it.
Also leave small air bubble to tube for heat expansion.
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oliverg
Joined: 15 May 2007
Posts: 800
Location: Melbourne, Australia
TV/Projector: Sony G90 X2 - Vidikron Vision 1
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| Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="Ile"] | ncc1701d wrote: | I have used straight propylene glycol (from pharmacy) for AC tubes without problems. It can't be mixed with old fluid.For LC I mix 30% glycerol to propylene glycol to match original fluid refraction index.
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Ile, you come up with some very very interesting posts 
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