CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

stefuel · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject:

Post a picture of the splitter. AmPro has a few different ones. If Curt doesn't have one I may have one. Actually, I'm not sure from a function standpoint which one you use but the mounting holes won't line up.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

Ok I have gojne through it all there is no crack in the leads or the splitter the red tube lead that is visibly darker than the other two tube leads. The other leads from the splitter are silver in colour so are are both sides of the lead going to the hvps should I assume the red is getting a bit more voltage than it should as the lead is a dark brown in colour at the end going into the splitter.

Also, can I remove all the leads from the splitter leading to the tubes but leave it plugged into the HVPS and see if the noise is still on as this will enable me to really isolate the noise to the splitter, thanks gents.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Post a pic of these items.

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

You can disconnect the CRT anode leads from the splitter while leaving the HVPS connected. I recommend also disconnecting the G-2 wires from the CRT cards while you do this.

Remember that this circuit carries 34,000V when energized. Make sure the projector is turned off and unplugged from the mains when you are anywhere close to the splitter/HVPS and wires.

Scott

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

anodes disconnected and g2 disconnected hvps connected, at this point their was no spitting sound from the splitter if it is indeed the splitter I will see what happens when I put the anodes back in I will leave the darkened one out to see if there is still noise from the splitter, if not, I will then put it back in and see if the noise is being created by this specific anode being connected, thanks Macgyver and Scott.

tse · Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1014 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.

That sounds like a good plan. It's possible your noise problems are caused that darkened lead.

Scott

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

I cant troubleshoot this thing at this level for a million bucks Scott this plan is all Macgyvers, if the two of you cannot help me fix it I think I am, you know what!

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

I reconnected the dirty anode to the splitter and yes thats the one! it started its sound again so new splitter it is I think!

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

No, I would not think its the splitter yet. It could be the wire. Try cleaning the end of the wire with some sand paper or a wire brush.See if noise is still there. If it is remove the bad wire, place one of the other wires in the hole the bad one was in, leave the bad one disconnected and start the projector. if the noise in not there, turn off and place the bad wire in the hole that was left open and restart. If the noise is back then it is probably a bad wire and needs to be replaced.

stefuel · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:49 pm Post subject:

Pull the suspect wire from the splitter. Take a Q-tip with some alcohol on it and swab out the hole. It will probably come out black. Keep cleaning till it comes out with little or no black on it. Clean the cable off with alcohol also. let it dry and try again. The black is carbon which is a great conductor of electricity.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

OOOp's. I think you mean black carbon is not a great conductor of electricity. It's good at blocking the conductance. Smile

stefuel · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:05 pm Post subject:

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

OK, I have switched the wiring and it does indeed seem to be the wire not the splitter, there is no sound with the red anode out, I will clean wires and I take it i should remove the splitter from the hvps then clean the inside of the splitter with alcohol where the anode and splitter makes contact?

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

If there is carbon in the splitter hole and on the tip of the wire, the phizzing noise is the current trying to pass through the carbon creating an arc to get around it. If it could pass through it, it would not make the noise.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

how long should I leave the pj off until it is safe to clean the splitter or in fact doing any of this stuff, I leave a couple of hours after I unplug the pj before I muck around, when does the current settle to safe levels. Thanks gents.

stefuel · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:29 pm Post subject:

I'm to old to get into a pissing contest over something I haven't even seen Wink

However, if he were to fire up the projector with all the lights off and look real close at the anode lead where it connects to the splitter, there's a good chance that he'll see a purple corona around that connection. That is 36KV following the carbon dust that is in the hole out. Usually cleaning it out stops the problem.
I'm having way to much fun here. I think I'll go play with myself Shocked

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Hey Chip. I agree this is definitely not worth arguing over. We do however both agree there is a problem there and hopefully cleaning it will solve the problem. The main thing is to help him.

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

Ok, I cleaned the anodes and the splitter, the cracking is almost totally gone I can hear a little but its not a issue. I reconnected everything and gave it a try but no luck the same results happened. The red is having a bad grid pattern day the blue just about comes on ( its in the greens place ) and the green is off, nothing at all ( its in the blues place ). Confused

incova · Joined: 27 Nov 2006 Posts: 789 Location: london

I reset the pj to the values you suggested, I dont understand its like everything I did has been wiped out, the sub contrast and brite were at 0 for the blue thats why the tube thats in there did not come on, I dont dare leave the tubes on too long as they are at the edges of the safe area I have tried to make the image as small as I can. I will try again so that none of the tubes get destroyed. Thanks Ron I should have rechecked that but I thought the settings I had for in channel 10 were ok but they were not.

All three tubes are fine! they are producing a very distorted rectangle like the red though. I will try and send a pic in a while.

So, the cracking sound is gone and all three tubes seem fine, so far so good thanks again for all the help gents, my assumption that the sub brite and contrast would be where I left it when I did greyscale on this channel was way of base. The pj seems to have lost a lot of its settings, Perhaps the distorted rectangle is from extreme values being fed into the pj as all the values have somehow been reset.

stefuel · Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 4:49 pm Post subject:

You need to check the battery voltage on the CPU board. It is a 3.6 volt battery. The CPU will get flaky under 3.0 volts.
It is a small black box on the top edge of the CPU board.