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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 2:00 pm Post subject: Sony VPH-D50 questions: noise, smell, lines |
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First off, thank you for this incredible resource.
After leaving crt’s behind for about 2 decades, I recently jumped back in, and forgot how superior they are.
Bought a small pvm and instantly remembered how sharp motion looks on crt.
Right now I’m using the Sony VPH-D50.
I replaced the exhaust fans and power supply fan but it’s still very loud for my taste.
So I might mod it even further, get some short fan ducts and replace the exhaust fans with 200mm fans + dremel a bigger hole in the PSU for a 80 mm fan. A hushbox is sadly not an option in the way that it’s mounted.
Now for my first question, can I remove the entire input A board, and have the projector still boot up without any problem? Reason would be to get rid of one 40mm fan. I’m using the moome hdmi card + htu adapter, so it wouldn’t need the input A anymore.
My second question is about a noise that seems to come from some electrical parts. Could this be a capacitor in the PSU? It seems to be coming from the front, near the PSU.
On a full white screen it makes sound, while on full black it doesn’t.
On 85hz it is noisier than on 60hz.
Would this be ‘easy’ to replace, as in solder a new capacitor?
Third question, the plastic smell…
Any way to get rid of this? Wipe it with some solution?
The projector was new, so it might need time to wear off, but any tips would be appreciated.
The projector is used in a fairly small room on a 90” screen. I’m using an airfilter and open windows to get rid of it.
Fourth question.
On the top of the screen (and bottom inside the tube) there is a bright line. See attached picture.
When I checked the guide on this forum of used tubes, I always saw some kind of rectangle with no line. Is something wrong? I’m not sure, I need to check, but when I used a svhs input before, I didn’t have this line.
Resolution used is 1280x720 @ 60hz.
(The picture shows a faint reflection at the bottom, this is not on the tube, I think it's the lens reflection.)
Thank you
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 3:40 pm Post subject: Re: Sony VPH-D50 questions: noise, smell, lines |
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Hi and welcome to the forum!
Some comments / recommendations for you on a few things:
| Videodrome wrote: | | I replaced the exhaust fans and power supply fan but it’s still very loud for my taste. |
Be careful doing this. You mentioned that your CRT projector is actually new (wow!) so the fans are not noisy due to wear. That noise is from air turbulence, air moving across "stuff" inside the projector. This is not uncommon, especially Sony's which seem to slap fans in after the fact to cool things instead of designing around them. So if you replace fans and it's quieter it's mostly because there's less air movement which means the projector will run hotter (not good for longevity).
| Quote: | | Now for my first question, can I remove the entire input A board, and have the projector still boot up without any problem? |
Yes. I believe you can remove any unused input boards.
| Quote: | | On a full white screen it makes sound, while on full black it doesn’t. |
Normal for CRT based displays. You can certainly try replacing caps if you like.
| Quote: | Third question, the plastic smell…
Any way to get rid of this? Wipe it with some solution? |
New CRT projectors (especially in 2023!) are very uncommon. I did have a new Barco many years ago and didn't notice any plastic smell. I would expect it would dissipate over time.
| Quote: | | On the top of the screen (and bottom inside the tube) there is a bright line. See attached picture. |
That's the AKB line. It's normal on many projectors including Sony. Search the forum for "AKB line" for more. The manual may explain it as well.
Here are some forum hits after a quick search of "AKB":
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=239950
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=121009
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=295952
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=233362
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172735
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=74618
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=10881.html
https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=19835.html
Heads up too that this forum is pretty much dead in terms of people asking/answering CRT projector questions. The good news is that there are ~20 years of Q/A here that you can search through so anything you ask, will have already been asked 460 times over the years.
Cheers!
Kal
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My basement/HT/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Wed Feb 22, 2023 4:07 pm; edited 2 times in total
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26706 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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I would recommend putting the original fans back in. Especially if they flow less than the originals.
Once you are in a movie with all the sounds going the fan noise "fades" out of your mind. You get use to it.
I ran a D50 for 12 years. Once in the Movie/game/TV show I didn't hear the fans anymore.
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the feedback and resources.
Disabling ABG(huge drop in brightness) and messing around with the gain/bias + moome gamma solved it!
I really want to reduce the noise though, the projector sits 1-2 feet away from me at near ear level...
I replaced the exhaust fans with a higher CFM so it should be fine?
To be precise the "SilenX ixp-34 – 76 – 14"
http://www.silenx.com/quiet.fans.asp?sku=ixp-76-14
I'm tossing ideas around, I might go for a 3x120mm to one single duct, and connect that to a 'large' exhaust fan some meters away with more than enough cfm. However I'm more bothered with the 40mm fans, so I'll look at that first. Maybe use a dremel to make the hole bigger and put a 80mm fan on it.
Removing the input A board gave me an error code '00', so sadly I can't get rid of that fan.
@AnalogRocks, what contrast/brightness setting did you use and for how many hours?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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Unfortunately, nope.
You have to understand how CFM measurement works as it's a pretty meaningless number when presented just by itself. In most cases it's tested completely out of the open (not installed) so there's zero back pressure. The amount of air it moves is measured that way and its the MAX air it can move with zero resistance. But that amount is meaningless as as soon as there's any back pressure (called static pressure) the CFM drops like a rock with most fans, especially blade fans like the one you linked to (squirrel cage fans are better at this). To truly compare fans you have to compare and use a chart of CFM vs static pressure and know how much static pressure your application will present.
More here: https://forum.digikey.com/t/fans-air-flow-vs-static-pressure/905
It's been a while since I used silenX fans but I did completely change out all the fans on my Barco Cine 8 Onyx CRT projector clone almost 20 years ago, but then went back to the higher air volume (stock) fans as my measurements showed the unit was running much hotter than before. That's the reason silenX fans are quiet: They don't move as much air when there's any back (static) pressure and less air movement creates less turbulence so it's quieter. My research here: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=3606.html
Again, it's no the fan itself that is typically noisy but the air turbulence against and around the things you're trying to cool. Take that stock fan out and run it in open air and you'll see that it's much quieter, probably not that much different from a SilenX fan.
People are misled by manufacturers like SilenX as everything gets quieter as soon as you replace stock fans with them, but that's only because they suck at moving air (or actually, do not suck much at all).
| Quote: | | @AnalogRocks, what contrast/brightness setting did you use and for how many hours? |
What others use does not matter.
Brightness is the black level on analog CRT displays. It needs to be properly set up for your unit and your sources. Depends if you're doing 0-255 or 15-235 signal too. There's no "right" answer. If there was one correct brightness setting for analog displays like CRT, it wouldn't be adjustable.
Contrast in analog CRT displays is the amount of light it outputs. The larger the screen, the lower the screen gain, the higher you'll probably want to set it. SMPTE talks about ~14 foot lamberts as being the target for older non-HDR projectors like CRT but this can be somewhat a personal preference too. The higher the contrast the faster the tubes will wear, the shorter the life.
You should read some of our guides/articles on the main site, including the CRT primer to get an understanding of the basics.
Cheers!
Kal
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My basement/HT/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2023 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for doing that temp. research with the fans.
I've replaced the fans back to stock to be safe.
Damn...took me so long to get the SilenX working because somehow I would get code 72 (fans) when I'd install all three, two would be fine. Eventually with some middle wire 'duplication' I could get it to work.
I know how brightness and contrast is different for any situation. I have mine set at 60, just wondering if that's generally safe for longevity. I have a G70 in storage in case this ones every breaks down, or I move to a larger house. But since I'm hoping to enjoy crt projectors until the day I die , I don't want to burn through the tubes unnecessarily fast.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2023 5:36 am Post subject: |
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A simple 'hand check' on the back always made me wonder about the SilenX effectiveness.
Stockfans did feel like it moved more air than the SilenX, but I was hoping the CFM numbers and larger blade depth (25 vs 38mm) would speak for themselves. They were also recommended in the fan replacement guide on the site so I thought it was a safe bet.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26706 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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| Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2023 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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Hey just a heads up, don't run the video streaming boxes continuously sitting there on the screen idling. CRT's are subjust to burn in. You will leave an after image burnt into your tubes that will never go away. People coming from LCD flat screens don't realize this.
The new steaming boxes are particularly bad for this.They don't go to a screen saver or black screen when idol.
I just got a cable company streaming box. All it does is sit there putting up adds continuously . No screen saver or black screen available.
This also applies if you have a Plasma set. It will but into a plasma set too.
I always liked the DVD/Bluray players that will start bouncing a logo arouns the screen or a fade in - fade out logo on the screen in different places. Protect the tubes.
If you want to leave it up hit the video input to an unused one or use the tube mute feature on the projector. Your video box will still be at the ready but the projector will have a black screen until ready
Likewise if you have a DVD with an annoying animated menu that loops and doesn't allow the DVD player to go into screen saver make sure you don't fall asleep with that on the screen.
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 5:19 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice, I wasn't aware projector tubes would have burn in fairly quickly.
From my younger days going from 11" to eventually 21" crt's I never found it to be a real issue.
I take good care of my screens nonetheless, my only concern would be long game sessions with a static UI.
Small update, I was able to upgrade my powersupply fan to an 80mm, which got rid of the annoying whine near my head. Very happy with this!
Now looking for a manufacturer to make me a square to round 200mm duct so I can remove the exhaust fans and replace it with a big duct fan I can put a few meters away. I might put some temperature sensors inside to monitor things.
And, I realized I bought the wrong projection screen .
It was 1.0 gain(0.95 to be exact), always thought it looked a bit dark and washed out, now I know why.
Hoping my ordered 1.8 gain screen will fix this and I can reduce the contrast setting a bit.
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 5:57 am Post subject: |
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1.8 will hotspot noticeably. I have 1.3 and I can see a hotspot, but it's not really enough to notice if I'm not looking for it. Not sure about 1.8. Any chance you could curve it a bit?
I ran with a 1.0 for years before I made my 1.3 screen, and that was a 100" screen. However my projectors (Dwin 700, NEC XG852, Sony G70, Ehome 8500) were all rated 1100-1200 lumens. Your D50 is rated 800. So it might be a bit dark on a 90" screen.
Or the CRT may just have a darker look than you expected. Digitals have full output on the whole screen, and can light the entire screen with full-on white. CRTs can't -- they're current-limited, so if the image has a lot of bright areas, there aren't enough electrons per area of phosphor to light it as bright as it should be. A white movie like Ice Age looked kinda dingy on my CRTs.
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 6:33 am Post subject: |
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Curving won't be an option.
I'm the only one using the projector and I'll be sitting dead center so viewing angles shouldn't be a problem.
The washed out look is what I want to improve.
Now when I set my contrast to near max. it looks great, but that means the tubes will have an extreme short lifespan. Not an option, since they aren't made anymore. I'm hoping to get 10k-15k hours from this projector. So for now I put everything at 60 contrast and use a warm temperature setting to make sure the blue tube doesn't prematurely sh*t the bed.
If hotspots are going to be a problem, then the worst case scenario I'm hoping for is turning down the contrast with the 1.8 gain screen while having the same look as the 1.0 gain one?
If you are certain 1.8 will give problems, let me know.
Then I might cancel that order (if possible).
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garyfritz
Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12088 Location: Fort Collins, CO
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| Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 6:51 am Post subject: |
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I don't know. I've never seen a screen higher than 1.3. (Except a retro-reflective High Power screen, but that's a different animal.) I forget where they say you really need to curve it, but somewhere between 1.5 - 2.0 sticks in my mind.
It will still be watchable, and it will be brighter. But you won't have uniform brightness across the screen. It'll be brighter in the center.
10-15k hours is a lot. If I remember right, Sonys tend to run hot and the green & blue get worn quicker than other brands. I only had a G70 for a little while so I'm no expert. Maybe one of the Sony guys here (AR?) could offer some insights.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 6:32 am Post subject: |
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I'm hoping the new cooling solution will keep the projector at lower temperatures than stock ventilation, which should help its longevity.
After projector shutdown I can keep the ventilation moving for a few minutes, I believe that's the moment where the tubes suffer more than usual. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I'd rather make sure the tubes last as long as possible.
I cancelled the 1.8 gain screen and ordered a few screen samples from another company.
It seems quite challenging to get a 1.3-1.5 gain screen in this country, so I might have to look internationally.
I can deal with a minor hotspot, as long as it's not distracting on 'normal' content.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 1:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Videodrome wrote: | | I'm hoping the new cooling solution will keep the projector at lower temperatures than stock ventilation, which should help its longevity. |
It'll help the electronics lifespan and may also help with convergence stability, but won't do anything for the tube life. FWIW the electronics in CRT projectors will usually greatly outlive a set of tubes and since tubes are impossible to find you should assume that once the tubes are complete toast that you won't be replacing them. I would simply enjoy the projector and use it. CRT projectors, especially smaller 7" units aren't worth anything anymore, so might as well just use it.
| Quote: | | After projector shutdown I can keep the ventilation moving for a few minutes, I believe that's the moment where the tubes suffer more than usual. Maybe I'm overthinking it, but I'd rather make sure the tubes last as long as possible. |
That won't make a difference. When the raster's turned off there's nothing exciting the CRT phosphor. CRT tubes aren't cooled anyway. It's not the main thing that gets hot.
Most digital projectors with bulbs keep the fans running for a minute or so after power off with the remote to ensure that the bulbs have cooled down adequately otherwise the bulb temp can rise and explode. CRT projectors don't need that / it's not an issue. When you turn off a CRT projector with the remote it completely shuts down as there's nothing inside that needs to be cooled. Certainly nothing wrong with keeping air moving for a minute or two after the units shut down, but I wouldn't lose sleep over it. It's not something CRT projector owners did (or do). I certainly didn't with my hush boxes.
Kal
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My basement/HT/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Videodrome
Joined: 22 Feb 2023 Posts: 56
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| Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you for the information, appreciated.
So the only thing that makes tubes last longer is a lower contrast and/or brightness setting..
And, since you probably know your projectors , is there any technology on the horizon that comes close to the motion clarity of CRT's? I've read about laser projectors, claiming no lag and no motion blur? Haven't seen on in action though.
What would be your verdict vs. crt projectors? I don't really care about HDR or 4k, it's all about having no motion blur and latency for me.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 06 Mar 2006 Posts: 18114 Location: Ottawa, Canada
TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7
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| Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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The less you excite the phosphor, the longer it will last. That's usually the contrast setting. Tube bias/G2/gain will affect your light output too (or more directly how much the contrast setting changes light output).
Brightness is is your black level. Doesn't have an affect on tube wear as it's black level cutoff (assuming brightness isn't completely set incorrectly of course - though an elevated black level to the point of causing extra tube wear would result in a completely unwatchable image).
As for what technology to use, I'd suggest you view a few different ones yourself and decide. I went from CRT to JVC LCoS (DILA) back in 2013 and haven't looked back. Still using the same projector in fact. I enjoy it considerably more than any CRT I've had. You can read about my thoughts here where I describe going to LCoS after years with CRT: https://www.curtpalme.com/forum_archived/viewtopic.php@t=32973.html
If I had to buy again today it would still be a JVC, probably laser.
Kal
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