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G90 "Not applicable" when selecting input A?
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 5:32 pm    Post subject: G90 "Not applicable" when selecting input A?

I just installed the most recent Moome HDMI interface card into slot B on my projector, and now I can't get the original RGBHV inputs selected. While I have not had to change the input for many years, I assume I just hit the "A" button on the remote. When I do this I get the error "Not Applicable", just like when trying to accidently do convergence without being in service mode. I get the same result when I slide the new card out far enough to disconnect it.

Any ideas?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 18114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 9:57 pm    Post subject:

I don't have an idea for you, but I'm moving this to the Moome forum (instead of Buy/Sell) so that you get hopefully the right people looking at it. Cheers!

Kal

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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 11:52 pm    Post subject:

Are the lights on the moome illuminated? Have you tried the other slot?
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26706
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G

Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 1:26 am    Post subject:

Sounds like the A slot got tugged on. Try the RGBHV card in the B slot to confirm it works if so switch back to the A slot and try again.
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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 4:41 am    Post subject:

Ah so you have two cards and now the Input A card isn't working? Sounds like the Input A connector isn't seating properly. Maybe some oxidation. Do as AR suggests and see if that fixes things. Input is selected on remote as you noted.
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 12:33 pm    Post subject:

Yes the lights are on. Besides some HDMI interference, the card is working. The A inputs are not.

HaydnG90 wrote:
Are the lights on the moome illuminated? Have you tried the other slot?
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 12:37 pm    Post subject:

AnalogRocks wrote:
Sounds like the A slot got tugged on. Try the RGBHV card in the B slot to confirm it works if so switch back to the A slot and try again.


Remove the RGBHV card? since there is no ready access to this card, can I assume it requires removal of the back panel?
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 12:44 pm    Post subject:

HaydnG90 wrote:
Ah so you have two cards and now the Input A card isn't working? Sounds like the Input A connector isn't seating properly. Maybe some oxidation. Do as AR suggests and see if that fixes things. Input is selected on remote as you noted.


Does this make sense, even though I get a different error than when a card is missing?:
button C: "No interface board"
button A: "Not applicable!"
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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 1:37 pm    Post subject:

Looks like Input A (RGBHV inputs are located on the BA board (the one that sits above the YA when G90 is floor mounted. To access that board you can remove the metal plate thats held in place by the extended black locking screws. Carefully pull out the board avoiding the small daughter board with the digital display. Check for obvious issues then reseat. If its a contact problem that should fix things. If not you could have a more serious problem.

Any error codes when the G90 is turned on. Everything normal except detecting signals?
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 2:50 pm    Post subject:

I did have a client years ago that sent me a YA and BA board for servicing. I repaired the bad board, and sent it back. Client complained that menus came up, but no image out of any input. Finally went to see him, and indeed, he didn't push the BA board in far enough to make contact. One side was in, causing no error codes to come up, and the set fired up with menus and everything. Unplug the set and reseat the BA board and see if that helps.
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:24 am    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
I did have a client years ago that sent me a YA and BA board for servicing. I repaired the bad board, and sent it back. Client complained that menus came up, but no image out of any input. Finally went to see him, and indeed, he didn't push the BA board in far enough to make contact. One side was in, causing no error codes to come up, and the set fired up with menus and everything. Unplug the set and reseat the BA board and see if that helps.


I tried this, and things went down hill fast. Now I get an "Overcorrection!" error when starting the system back up, and the convergence
is way off.
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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:54 am    Post subject:

How old is that Dallas chip?
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:15 am    Post subject:

dave148 wrote:
Curt Palme wrote:
I did have a client years ago that sent me a YA and BA board for servicing. I repaired the bad board, and sent it back. Client complained that menus came up, but no image out of any input. Finally went to see him, and indeed, he didn't push the BA board in far enough to make contact. One side was in, causing no error codes to come up, and the set fired up with menus and everything. Unplug the set and reseat the BA board and see if that helps.


I tried this, and things went down hill fast. Now I get an "Overcorrection!" error when starting the system back up, and the convergence
is way off.


I fixed this problem by reseating the board with the serial jacks on it.

Now back to the original problem:

Can someone with a G90/ IFB-FULLHD v3 combo press the A button and tell me if the input switches to the RGBHV inputs?
What mode were you in when this worked?
And this is the "A" right over the "1" in the number pad?

Thanks,

Dave
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:23 pm    Post subject:

HaydnG90 wrote:
How old is that Dallas chip?

Everything is original

projector serial No. 2000347
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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:57 pm    Post subject:

YIKES. Get a new Dallas chip in there stat. That thing is 20 years old and could be causing all sorts of problems to the operation of your G90. I would not turn it on again until you get that sorted.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 1:53 pm    Post subject:

Absolutely! I have stock, or you can send yours to Craig Rounds to get the data in it copied to another one. If you put a new Dallas chip in, then everything, including the serial number will be dumped, and the set will need a full set up.
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HaydnG90



Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1356


Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 2:46 pm    Post subject:

I'd be shocked if a 20 year old Dallas would still have uncorrupted data. Hope I'm wrong, but worth trying for the reasons Curt mentions. I'm on my 3rd Dallas chip after my 2nd showed signs of failing after 9 years use. Craig does have stock of 'good' authentic chips and can copy the files over. He has quick turnaround if he's not traveling.
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:05 pm    Post subject:

HaydnG90 wrote:
YIKES. Get a new Dallas chip in there stat. That thing is 20 years old and could be causing all sorts of problems to the operation of your G90. I would not turn it on again until you get that sorted.


"not turn it on again": Are you serious? Everything seems to be working except for the choosing input A question.
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:14 pm    Post subject:

Curt Palme wrote:
Absolutely! I have stock, or you can send yours to Craig Rounds to get the data in it copied to another one. If you put a new Dallas chip in, then everything, including the serial number will be dumped, and the set will need a full set up.

From what you've said, I'm guessing this is some sort of a memory part that keeps the setting information?
So is this just serial number, magnetic focus, input assignments, and convergence settings, or is there something more significant?

Why do you expect a semiconductor part to die in such a short time? Or is there just an issue with some of the data getting
corrupted, and I would need some sort of a factory reset?

Dave
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dave148



Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 33
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:24 pm    Post subject:

HaydnG90 wrote:
I'd be shocked if a 20 year old Dallas would still have uncorrupted data. Hope I'm wrong, but worth trying for the reasons Curt mentions. I'm on my 3rd Dallas chip after my 2nd showed signs of failing after 9 years use. Craig does have stock of 'good' authentic chips and can copy the files over. He has quick turnaround if he's not traveling.

What "signs of failing" did you see?

Since this all started with a projector working perfectly fine, and has degraded into a situation where I am spending way more time than anticipated, I am a little reluctant to send out any parts and potentially dig myself deeper into a problem. What type of files would he be copying?

The only reason I purchased the card to begin with was to get a backup for the method of HDMI conversion I was using at the time.
Everything was working to begin with, and it is now working again, but I don't have the backup, since I can't figure out how to get
the RGBHV inputs working allowing use of the stand alone device.

Can anyone verify I am choosing the RGBHV inputs correctly?

Dave
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