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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 2:52 am Post subject: |
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| Tim in Phoenix wrote: | | Remove all upper covers next to the red tube and see if the wired keypad cable or IR sensor cable is tie-wrapped against a sharp metal edge; it may be shorting your standby power to ground. |
had that one too once. someone re-tubed a machine and clamped the remote wire under the plate assembly. Frickin amateurs 
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 5:52 am Post subject: |
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I remember having a Marquee that would only run if the rear heat sink on its hinges was rotated to the "open" position. Problem fixed once I found the pinched G2 lead and replaced it.
I've said it before: Mechanically speaking, the Marquee chassis is the simplest and cheapest to build of any top ranked CRT projector,
and actually it represents cheap engineering. Oh, it gets the job done, but look at the chassis build quality of a Marquee vs. that of a G90 or Barco and they are in very different leagues.
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draganm
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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the machine ran for 7 months without a problem, and the OP was only adjusting the picture and didn't sound like he got into the chassis, so unlikely pinched wire.
It's going to be either Focus board or neck-board, I have both here from 8000's that are looking for a good home, just pay the shipping.
| cmjohnson wrote: | | and actually it represents cheap engineering. Oh, it gets the job done, but look at the chassis build quality of a Marquee vs. that of a G90 or Barco and they are in very different leagues. |
it's crude looking when you open it up, but on one else used Arc welded AL plates as a starting point. It's crazy really, they built this thing to be dropped 6 feet and survive.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2017 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, it's a solid chassis, but it's built of SIMPLE parts that are easy to fabricate and there aren't many of them. Assembled, it's a good structure, but can you name another projector that has a reputation for allowing the horizontal deflection module to FALL OUT if you remove the covers and one screw too many?
The Marquee would be the only projector that even MIGHT be cost effective to build again if the demand was there for another 100 brand new units. Every mechanical part is simple to fabricate and made of flat or bar stock. Only the neck card cages and inner side shields are even made of bent sheet metal. (Ok, top cover and lens box cover, too. But those aren't main chassis parts.)
It really is a good example of using simple engineering to accomplish a simple task. Though the G90 chassis is a marvel of the
sheet metal shop, and quite elegant, it's OVERKILL.
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2802
Location: Budapest, Hungary
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| Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 10:08 am Post subject: |
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I think the AmPrs were the cheapest to build, if we can call them high performers (and why not?). Otherwise Marquees were rather expensive to build, because everything is discretely built, but this is also why it could survive so long.
_________________
projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:30 am Post subject: |
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So I took out all of the boards in the back one at a time and turned on unit and still clicking
Am I missing any of the other boards to disconnect and try?
Can anyone call me? Just to make sure I am checking everything
Or FaceTime?
605-254-6132
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:14 am Post subject: |
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Did you turn on the set each time after pulling one board out? It sounds like you pulled them all out, put them back in, and then turned the set on.
Pull one board out, power up. If the clicking is still there, power down, unplug, wait 30 seconds, put the board back in, then pull another board out, power up, and repeat, etc.
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:15 am Post subject: |
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I have taken every board that I can see off and re-plugged the LVPS back in and still clicking with the standby light still flashing
All of the boards on the back and the two in the middle.. Am I missing any?
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:17 am Post subject: |
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Yes I did do one at a time
I did all in the back besides the main one with the led sensor lights
And then the two boards in the middle
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Tim in Phoenix
Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4409
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 8:55 am Post subject: |
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Hello
Pull the high voltage power supply out an inch to disconnect it, the hvps runs on 390 volts from the lvps and could be shorted inside.
Also, underneath the red tube, unplug the wired remote if installed, and the IR sensor if installed, but not both at the same time. I have seen shorted keypads and sensors a few times.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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You should have a spare LVPS anyway. I highly suggest you buy one from Curt.
Even if it's still good (I doubt it) it is on its last legs. Good to have spares!
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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both posts above are good. Unplug the wired remote under the top cover if it's there, I've had the odd one of those short out, causing what you say. I forgot about that.
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 1:53 am Post subject: |
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So I am trying the video neck boards now
Do I just have to pull the large white pin connector
And that's it and test or do I need to disconnect the entire board before plugging in the LVPS and turning on to see if it clicks
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 2:36 am Post subject: |
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If so I have pulled all video neck boards from the main connector pin and it still is clicking when I plug the LVPS in.
I also checked both the sensor and remote wire as well
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24396
Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:35 am Post subject: |
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I'm now leaning towards the LVPS being bad. Based on what you've reported back, that's where I'm at with this. Email me at curtpalme at shaw.ca and I can get you a replacement.
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:47 am Post subject: |
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Curt, I just pulled the control module out and the clicking stopped
Is that the one you said would not communicate then?
The one with the lithium power module
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:48 am Post subject: |
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I was under the impression that was the one I couldn't pull out until I gave up after pulling all the others out I have it another look after pulling others and decided to pull it
Just wondering
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:49 am Post subject: |
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DO NOT RUN A MARQUEE WITH THE WHITE WIRE ON THE NECK BOARDS DISCONNECTED!!!!!!!
That white wire is the G2 lead and with it disconnected the tubes will go to FULL OUTPUT and will not be able to control the brightness.
If you atttempt to power down the projector in that state, you WILL cause spot burns on the tube faces.
If you ever end up running a Marquee in this condition, either you reconnect the G2 lead CAREFULLY to the correct pin, or you have to pull out the P14 plug located on the motherboard on the side, under the blue tube, wait for all tube emission to fade away, and THEN power the unit down. You can't spot burn the tubes this way.
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:51 am Post subject: |
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Cmjohnson I am not powering up the projector at all just plugging the cord into LVPS to see if it clicks
I have not powered up projector at all just trying to get the LVPS to stop clicking
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cerickson
Joined: 13 Oct 2016
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:58 am Post subject: |
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Nevermind Curt, I re-read your post earlier.. The projector needs that to power up so I'm sure that board is not the issue
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