CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[thewolfman]

[stridsvognen]

[thewolfman]

[stridsvognen]

[jbmeyer13]

[thewolfman]

[thewolfman]

What you guys think is the better color for the chassis? I'm very interested in the Mustang Grabber Blue vinyl wrap. The equivalent for that color is the 1080 M3 G47 intense blue.

I'm also contemplating the idea, with having a two tone job to get the best of both worlds, with Grabber blue on top + satin black on front lid covering the lenses. Everything else is blue.

Or - blue on the top and sides and front lid - and satin black on the lower sides + a little around the outlines of the pore-truing lenses to break it off a bit.


I also like M3 matt black satin very much + red lettering of some sort.

And also M3 Silver sterling gray.

Brushed Gray is also very appealing. That + pitch black lettering.

(Some of the pictures, of the cars, are painted in the color that I like and not vinyl wrapped at all.)

[barclay66]

[redfox001]

Good screenshots. New camera? I guess you used mkv and not full blu ray for the shots is that correct?

[thewolfman]

No, these old screenies are the same as before but I am trying out my new camera as we speak.

Though, ISO 80 is as low as it gets.. but still leaps over the mobile that I used before. I have actually grown an interest about photography because of these screenies and now HDR especially.

You are right about that but will take some screenies with remux later, should be interested to see if there's a visual difference there.

[redfox001]

ISO 80 seems very low but if you set the aperture to big (f number to low) the lens will limit the bandwidth. So long exposure and tripod seems necessarily. But that is all I know.

[thewolfman]

Definitely the need for a tripod with this camera, luckily I had one.

[jbmeyer13]

Wrapping a PJ case would certainly be cheaper than painting it but wrapping around the top vent is going to be a nightmare. Hope you have a good plan for that.

[thewolfman]

I know exactly what you are talking about, but a little less stretching and sort off fold it in there might do the trick.

[thewolfman]

I got excited about getting into the fan mods again, and so installed the fan controller tonight.. and must say, it looks sick seeing that in the dark! Just like I imagined it. And I will definitely go for the M3 Black satin vinyl wrap with this and think it will look insane with that combo.

It draws power from the PC, and prefer it that way as the chassis don't have room for it anyway, it's full with just the CD-player on it. It will always be on, once the PC fans are hooked up to, but the once on the projector can be switched off and just leave the PC fans running.

It has 3 different alarms to watch over me, if it came to that, but for now turned off.

Even took some measurements while warming up the projector, on the HDM, where I put the first temperature probe, and it's interesting to see how fast they warm in just 1 minute. With the probe attached directly onto the large heatsink the working temp come to be about 43 degrees after 10 minutes of use.

But looking at it now; I see that it has risen to about 45-46 degrees and coincidently the blue starts to arch. It even arcs with it on mute and saw it first hand how it flashed in the dark. I turned it of then but think it could use some more cooling..

Although, now with everything put back on, 12 volts with the Cougars are not that loud after all, with it bare naked, it sounds more loud I guess.. so that leaves me with the conclusion; that padding it down, with half inch padding all over the inner aluminium covers, and the side panels, should make very silent indeed. An easy one to do also.

21,6 degrees cold
28,7 degrees - 1 minute
31,4 degrees - 2 minutes
34,2 degrees - 3 minutes
35,6 degrees - 4 minutes
37,7 degrees - 5 minutes
38,1 degrees . 6 minutes
40,4 degrees - 7 minutes
41,1 degrees - 8 minutes
41,6 degrees - 9 minutes
41,6 degrees - 10 minutes

About 43 degrees for the first hour and then about 45-46 degrees after 70 minutes and then arching after like another hour of use. Strange.

I will of course remove the open gap at the front, that foam template is just temporarily. I'll Dremel out the bulging area on the right and move it closer to the left, to make it dead centred. Crazy glue and some Plastic padding should do it.

EDIT: Working temp. is actually 51-52 degrees with watching movie content. Previous reading was from stationary images like this site for instance. I had it cool down to room temp and then set off to watch Predator right after and within minutes it was 51 degrees, still is.

[redfox001]

He nice! What temp sensor did you use? And what fancontroller?

[thewolfman]

It's a Lamptron fc5 v3 and the temp probe that came with it. 6 of them and reaches perfectly to the HDM and bell house and FGM. I haven't figured out how to set the alarm yet.. as it always on when activate it.

[stridsvognen]

Why dont you use the 2008 HDM.. it seems your using a old HDM from before the ULTRA days.

[thewolfman]

I do use Ultra HDM now.. but for a while there I did use a really old 8500 HDM because I didn't wan to destroy the only last working Ultra hdm that I had thinking it could be damaged from other parts being half broken.

[thewolfman]

I had a major breakthrough earlier today, when trying to figure out why my image is blurry on the left side, so I did the ordeal with setting things up with Long retrace - and voila - everything fell into place! It has never been this sharp before and the reason I went short retrace some 18 months ago was because I got this horrible ghost pattern on the tube-face.. now with the new boards that is gone.

Not only that, it now runs cooler to, before the HDM fluctuated between 50-52 degrees and now it's only 42-44 degrees.

Contrast went down from 60 to 54 but left brightness @ 12.

In order to bring in the corners and edges to full sharpness, I had to go past 50 on master focus by 5-6 clicks. Or 52 if you like. Now I get full sharpness at only 3 clicks past 50. Doing this takes away the same amount sharpness in the center of course, but seeing its only 3 clicks away now it's not a concern anymore.

And with green looking like sh*t, and a bit triangular in shape at the moment, and blue looking like sh*t as well, from bad magnet set up, I feel I can get that down to zero clicks with better set magnets.

I got such good results I brought it back into the ringing zone again - and yet there was none. So now that the focus issue has been resolved I'm working on getting rid of the tearing of the image. Still there with new random figures and think I might need some help on this one and will post pix with current settings to sort that out. I can live with it for now though.

As for the boards, those are stock and should not be confused with modded once, so there's another level of improvement to be made.