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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | | redfox001 wrote: | | Ok one more question just to be sure. Does the c-element or the tube face have a coating that could be damaged? |
If it was me i would take the below all off again, start all over. |
Yes I did but I have to clean the chamber too. Can i use soap?
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jbmeyer13
Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1135
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 3:53 am Post subject: |
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I use dawn dishwashing liquid with tap water and a horsehair auto detailing brush to get in all the difficult spots. Clean and flush 3 times, then rinse with distilled water 3-5 times. Dry the chamber with a micro fiber and then use another micro fiber and wipe everything down with denatured alcohol. As Nash said the fill holes are critical. An residue and you are screwed..
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:55 pm Post subject: |
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Ok been there done that 
Now lets hope this blue tube glycol stays clear.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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I'm so glad I don't have to mess with that at all. Seeing you and an fellow Swede mess with this only strengthen my believes on that. But then again huge piles of new tubes only comes around so often so I guess I was lucky to score all 3 tubes with it all done.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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| thewolfman wrote: | | I'm so glad I don't have to mess with that at all. Seeing you and an fellow Swede mess with this only strengthen my believes on that. But then again huge piles of new tubes only comes around so often so I guess I was lucky to score all 3 tubes with it all done. |
Yes it turns out to be more difficult than I hoped. First it is not so clear if you need 80/20 or 70/30 cause there are different stories on the internet. Than I found the new bellow had to be placed with all the screws removed because else it would not fit well and I got a leak. Than I found out the glycol has to be filtered because cleaning with a cloth leaves hairs. Well than it started to discolour because the bellow should be cleaned. Lucky I knew that I had to replace the screws. Found that in some obscure thread Now I was very carefull removing the old bellow to not scratch the aluminium. That is also something that could go wrong. I even read about people breaking a tube.
Now hope and pray.
But once you know how to do this I think it comes in handy in time.
By the way I did no longer use the syringe with extension tube to empty the tube (that took years). I got a plastic cap on the tube pins and placed it upside down against the wall. Than removed the c-element and using a syringe without extension to quickly empty it. That went very easy. Filling I still use the syringe with small tube to prevent dust getting in while it is open to the air. Oh no I have to correct this. In the end I left the whole housing on the tube including the neck housing to support the tube. Leaving it on the protected pins might snap the tube.
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Last edited by redfox001 on Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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| redfox001 wrote: | | thewolfman wrote: | | I'm so glad I don't have to mess with that at all. Seeing you and an fellow Swede mess with this only strengthen my believes on that. But then again huge piles of new tubes only comes around so often so I guess I was lucky to score all 3 tubes with it all done. |
Yes it turns out to be more difficult than I hoped. First it is not so clear if you need 80/20 or 70/30 cause there are different stories on the internet. Than I found the new bellow had to be placed with all the screws removed because else it would not fit well and I got a leak. Than I found out the glycol has to be filtered because cleaning with a cloth leaves hairs. Well than it started to discolour because the bellow should be cleaned. Lucky I knew that I had to replace the screws. Found that in some obscure thread Now I was very carefull removing the old bellow to not scratch the aluminium. That is also something that could go wrong. I even read about people breaking a tube.
Now hope and pray.
But once you know how to do this I think it comes in handy in time. |
I'm keeping my thumbs up for you.. but what about fungus in the old glycol itself? No matter how much you clean it it will always be poisoned with that, right? At one point you reused old glycol I understand.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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No I used new glycol but got it contaminated with hairs and little black rubber stuff from the old bellow glue.
Now the last time I got completely new glycol again and cleaned the chamber very thoroughly. I have to say I even took it to the shower and placing it in a way that watter could not run over it I rinsed the chamber with lots of water. Than I used grean soap to clean and brush with toothbrush and nail brush. Than with alcohol. I rinsed alcohol through the fill holes after water and than blew compressed air
Now the sucker should be goood lol
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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I am not going to tell you what I did to the bellow Rinsing rubbing leaving it over night i soap water etc etc.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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By the way after careful analyses of all the possible causes for the glycol to turn yellow I have one strange hypotheses that somehow someone that does not like the modified Marquee to show up found a way into my house and pissed in the tube while I was sleeping. I know it sounds far fetched but when you look at the colour of the yellow glycol it does not seem so unlikely at all
Anyway the rubbing and cleaning is good tube therapy.
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Those fill holes may still be a problem after some time.
The threads might be exposed to the glycol and corrode .
Some put silicon into the thread before re installing the fill hole screws .
Nashou |
Ok but when the screws are going in the silicon might be scratched again?
If this tube is going wrong after a few years I will replace it with a new one I think.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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This is my collection of CRT's at this moment.
The vision/9500 ultra
The CineMax
The 809 splitpack
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hi there,
I need some advise on placing the splitter. I am trying Strid's idea to place the splitter between the power supplies. It seems to fit even with the fanmod but I still have to find a way to fix it in place. Could there be some unwanted effect of this placement? Anyone ever tried this?
On top it looks much nicer and easier to get to the yokes this way.
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stridsvognen
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| Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Did you try see if its possible to put the splitter right under the lenses.?
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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That seems to be an even better option. Will try!
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Today finally tested the new build unit with 2008 boards and new CRT's. All works except the new lvps. Have to search further for that one.
I have one safety question. If I get an error with the g2 wire or something else with the neckboards is it enough to fast pull the power plug?
I know about the options to pull the neckboard wires and let the filament cool and to turn up brightness to let the HV shut down because there is to much current but I wonder if the tip I got to simply pull the net plug was tested by anyone?
When I first started everything up it turned out the red CRT gave no light and that was because the small g2 plug below the tube had broken off. Turns out the spot is killed in that case. Pfffffff. So red tube is still alife 
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Nashou66 wrote: | Never pull the plug if you have bright tube issue . Always allow the protect circuit to kick in or pull the P14 heater plug near the blue tube.
i am not sure about the G2 not connected and pulling the plug.
Athanasios |
Ok. I had spotburn on the former green tube because the tube was bright and I turned it off with the remote. I think two pins where not connected than. Makes me see that the marquee is less protective than the 909 and when playing with neckboards I have to know what to do when it happens again as these older boards and connectors are capable of breaking and the like.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2257
Location: The Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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Well finally everything works. The new tubes and the mostly 2008 parts. Even the lvps works with the fanmods.
The whole machine is that quiet that I start to hear other sounds like very high pitched caps or high voltage. Never heard that before  The simple fanmods with cork under the bellow fans does make it quieter judged from memory. I mostly hear air blowing.
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