CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

winny · Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:03 pm Post subject:

Progress today as the last parts arrived and good news for everyone trying to convert to continous scheimpflug. It turns out you don't have to remove the bottom outer cover at all as long as you reach down to the screws with a wrench and remove the front and bottom plate while they are still attached to each other.

So, what is the correct procedure for siliconeing the tubes in the housings? How much silicone goes where? Also, the four plastic bushings/washer thingies, they just pop into place with no special concerns?

The red tube had a deeper housing and hence no aluminium tape around the circumference near the tube face. Should I remove it on the other tubes too?

winny · Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:40 pm Post subject:

No replies. Oh well, luckily there is phone support among local CRTers.

Tubes potted. Now we play the waiting game.

Francisco · Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 305 Location: The Netherlands

Looks good, I hope you used acid and sour free silicone (couldn't you find black?), also put new aluminum tape or copper shielding around the LC chamber were it is missing. It prevents X-rays coming off the fosfor edges, it's for your safety Wink

winny · Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 4:45 pm Post subject:

The pH is not stated. Does the color matter?
I removed the lead tape from the two tubes that had it because it would otherwise be a path for the glycol to leak past. The housings have lead tape on them to prevent the X-rays from escaping.

Late edit:
It's the vinegar smelling sour type.

winny · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 5:01 pm Post subject:

I left the silicone to cure for a week before adding new glycol. The first tube went well and I manage to fill it without spill and leaving a small air pocket. As for the other two I overfilled them slightly and had to scoop out some glycol. There probably was some glycol squeezed between the bezel and the housing becase a few drops came out over night. Wiped them clean and left them over the weekend and the blue was dry but a few more drops had came out of the green tube. Worst case scenario, where to get new O-rings?

Also, how much air should there be left in the housing? I noticed there was a thinn line between too much as you pressed down the C-element and too little where the air bobble was clearly visible from outside but a few mm to spare from the tube face or top of C-element for normal mounting angles.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 6:01 pm Post subject:

I don't think you can get new O rings, at least I've never been able to find them. you may choose to put a bead of silicone around the C element, but you may not be able to ever get that C element out again, short of removing the tube and pushing really hard from the back.

winny · Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 2:44 pm Post subject:

I see. Since I have all three mounted at the moment, does anyone have a loose one and can measure it for me, or know the dimensions?

Francisco · Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 305 Location: The Netherlands

Don't worry about a few drops of glycol in the first week if you overfilled a little. I never experianced failing O rings.

winny · Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject:

Didn't see any more leaks so I mounted everything and a few questions arouse.

1. I only got one earth cable with the housings and the mounting hardware and without the original 1209s or a manual for reference, I'm not sure where it is supposed to go.

2. There are twelve holes for fixing the housings (slightly larger than the standard screw used thoughout the projector) but I only found nine of them. Do I need three more or are some not ment to be mounted due to scheimpflug movement?

3. Last and most concerning, when I turned it on, the blue didn't have any vertical deflection. It just made a bright blue line at the top of the tube at the very edge. Top of the tube when the projector was set for front ceiling and standing on the floor without lenses. One flip from the setting and once more from the lenses? Just in case there is any difference in troubleshooting bottom line versus top line problem. No photo since I didn't want to spot burn the tube more then necessary and turned it of after a few seconds.

winny · Posted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:27 pm Post subject:

Didn't see any more leaks so I mounted everything and a few questions arouse.

1. I only got one earth cable with the housings and the mounting hardware and without the original 1209s or a manual for reference, I'm not sure where it is supposed to go.

2. There are twelve holes for fixing the housings (slightly larger than the standard screw used thoughout the projector) but I only found nine of them. Do I need three more or are some not ment to be mounted due to scheimpflug movement?

3. Last and most concerning, when I turned it on, the blue didn't have any vertical deflection. It just made a bright blue line at the top of the tube at the very edge. Top of the tube when the projector was set for front ceiling and standing on the floor without lenses. One flip from the setting and once more from the lenses? Just in case there is any difference in troubleshooting bottom line versus top line problem. No photo since I didn't want to spot burn the tube more then necessary and turned it of after a few seconds.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

Looks like you are ready to wrap things up soon. That's great news so we can see some screenies anytime soon to. Smile

winny · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:46 am Post subject:

Need to resolve issue #3 first.

km987654 · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:03 am Post subject:

winny · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 6:37 pm Post subject:

Checked all connecťions to the blue tube. Looked good to me. Also checked the scan board and it was set correctly.

Mounted everything back and tried to turn it on and... Nothing! Standby led comes on and processor cycles are blinking at about 5 Hz. Set the adress to zero and tried both my remotes. Still nothing.

Any suggestions?

winny · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:38 pm Post subject:

Left the remote control problems for now and used the hardwired one. Now the problem have progressed to include the red tube as well and I couldn't see any output from the green but this might have just been rendered outside the phosphor area completely/same problem.
Also, when I turned it off it did not cut off the HV emediatly but rather after a while so I could see the infamous spot burn of death on at least the red tube. It didn't make a tiny dot but a 20 mm circle like and old TV when the deflection is turned off first.

Anyone want to buy two projectors?

gnnash · Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Posts: 216 Location: Lake Elmo, MN

winny · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject:

That's probably where the money is.

When properly trimmed you don't see the deflection becoming smaller and smaller at all during turn off but here it did. No spot burn but it's mentioned in one of the FAQs that this condition needs to be adressed since it will spot burn over time.

gnnash · Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Posts: 216 Location: Lake Elmo, MN

It's interesting that you see a big dot when you turn off the set - I would think that since you don't have horizontal deflection, you'd see a line that shrinks in width.

Unless the beam is reeeaaallly defocused when the set is turning off.

winny · Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:15 pm Post subject:

Yes, you re correct - that is strange!

km987654 · Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:01 am Post subject:

Read This

http://www.avsforum.com/t/202161/barco-800-owners-change-those-transistors